Sunday Suppers at Lucques: Recipe Discussion, Links, & Previous Picks and Pans
May 2007 Cookbook of the Month. Use this thread to discuss which recipes you are planning to try from Sunday Suppers at Lucques, by Suzanne Goin. Get tips from other hounds or list other online resources here such as recipe links. Maybe even search out other like-minded hounds and have a cook-off on the same recipe.
Feel free to post short reviews of recipes you may have already tried in this thread (picks and pans), but full length recipes should be posted in the appropriate section thread.
A reminder that the verbatim copying of recipes to the boards is a violation of the copyright of the original author. Posts with copied recipes will be removed.
Thanks for participating!
Today I again made her short ribs with horseradish sour cream (low fat yoghurt here), and chard. Amazing. Of course it was hot today and I was cooking while watching the awful news about the fires in So. Cal....but it cooled off a bit by dinner time and this dish shone again. It's one of my favorites.
I probably should have waited until mid-November to tackle this recipe, but I found pretty cheap short ribs with the cross-wise cut at COSTCO....so.
Heirloom tomato Salad with Burrata, Torn Croutons and Opal Basil (paraphrased from pg. 135)
1/3 lb country white bread
1/2 cup olive oil
1 T oregano leaves
1/2 clove garlic
1 1/2 T red wine vinegar
1 T balsamic vinegar
1/2 pint cherry tomatoes
3 lbs assorted heirloom tomatoes
1 t fleur de sel
2 T sliced opal basil
2 T sliced green basil
1 lb burrata cheese
1/2 cup thinly sliced shallots
1/4 cup flat leaf parsley leaves
kosher salt and freshly ground pepper
1. Preheat the oven to 375. Cut the crust off the bread and tear the loaf into 1 inch pieces. Toss with 2 T olive oil and toast for 12-15 minutes so that the croutons are brown and crispy on the outside but soft on the inside.
2. Using a mortar and pestle, pound the oregano, garlic and 1/4+ t of salt until it is a paste. Transfer the paste into a bowl and stir in both vinegars. Whisk in remaining 6 T olive oil.
3. Cut the cherry tomatoes in half. Core the heirloom tomatoes. Cut half the heirlooms into wedges and set aside. Cut the remaining heirlooms into 1/4 inch slices. Season the slices with the salt and some pepper. Place the slices so they overlap each other and arrange on a platter. Spoon a bit of the vinaigrette over them and scatter the basil on top.
4. Cut the burrata into 12 slices and tuck in with the slabs of tomatoes.
5. Toss the wedges and cherry tomatoes with the sliced shallots, 1/2 t kosher salt, pepper, and 3 T of the vinaigrette. Taste for seasoning and add more vinaigrette to taste. Toss in the croutons.
6. Arrange the salad on a platter, piled high in the center so the sliced tomatoes and cheese peek through. Toss the parsley and remaining basil on top.
Did anybody ever make the pastel vasco (I think I have the name right). It's a pound cake with a blackberry compote baked inside of it and spooned on top. I've been really tempted by it, but blackberries aren't going to be good for a while, and I'm really tempted to make it with another berry (maybe blueberries? not sure) Would love advice from somebody who is familiar with the recipe whether they think it would work with another fruit.
This was our menu last night, drawing from several seasons:
Fava Bean Puree with Oil-Cured Olives, Feta, and Garlic Toasts (Spring)
Deviled Thighs with Braised Leaks and Dijon Mustard (Winter)
Hazelnut Brown Butter Cake (Winter) with Sweet Cherry Compote (Spring) - loved the combination and served with some of the HD extra rich vanilla ice cream.
I've posted detailed comments and some additional photos on the appropriate threads.
Just picked out some recipes I'm going to make first (the blood orange, date, and arugula salad, striped bass with farro and black rice, orecchiette carbonara, and the coconut flan with apricots). Also, I was looking at the recipe for chopped lobster salad with fava beans and, oddly enough, the ingredient list and instructions don't mention favas at all.......
I've recently been planning to make ice cream, so have been comparing vanilla ice cream recipes. I'll say this for Goin--some of the recipes may appear (to me) needlessly complex and require more hours and ingredients than I regularly have. Her vanilla and almond ice cream recipes are refreshingly straightforward in terms of ingredients and technique.
Having finally read through this book, I have to admit, I'm not sure how much I'll be cooking from it. She admits in the intro that she has a real love of olive oil. Boy, does she. It's sort of overwhelming how much olive oil there is in many of these recipes. Additionally, I agree with what other posters have noted in terms of the advance prep necessary for many of the recipes. Neither of this issues are truly 'problems' with the cookbook, they're just issues that mean the recipes don't fit very well with the way I cook right now.
It's a beautiful cookbook, the recipes largely sound wonderful, and none of this is to say that I'm not going to try to find something in it to cook. Just a general comment.
re: Carb Lover
Are you paying for the flight? Shouldn't be pricy - Southwest must have loads of bargain fares from Bayarea to LArea.
I have made Goin's braised short ribs twice - once doing everything she advised and once skipping steps and cutting corners. I really couldn't taste much difference btwn the 2 meals. Actually, both times I used low fat Fage yoghurt instead of the creme fraiche or sour cream as called for in the recipe for the horseradish sauce.
I made her chicken paillards last night with a big salad and some cold artichokes. They were a big hit. My husband will eat any preparation of chicken pieces with a coating on them. I'm tempted to try wallpaper paste and granola.
PS: If you can find Mark Bittman's show with Goin, it's great. I actually posted the recipes she used on that show. His premise is that the guest chef prepares some complicated dish and he finds something as good that takes 10 minutes.
You should all look at the pork confit and the chicken poule au pot in my big post of recipes. The labor intesity is ....well, intense!
I liked the famed short ribs just fine, but they are not very different than a million other short rib recipes. I prefered the bouef a la Nicoise made with short ribs.
The corned beef recipe is just genius for tenderness (note: I added a beer to the liquid) and the parsley sauce is a great sauce for it (although we still had to have horseradish cream in addition.) I liked the Guiness Stout cake served with whipped cream, but it was not as good after the first day (dryer.)
The deviled chicken thighs are fantastic, but I thought the leeks were overly stewed after the double cooking, plus there was so much liquid it seemed excessive. In all, I thought that there is likely a less time consuming way to prepare this, however I think I will make it again just the same way again before experimenting. This is a dish with flavor on every layer and I loved the vermouth, chile and thyme marinade. I think you could begin a number of different dishes this way. The mustard sauce is insane. A lusty dish and a must make imho. I served it with her soft polenta (from another meal) and it was a great combo, plus I like that way of making a plain, loose polenta.
Wow! Talk about differing opinions! I thought the short ribs were very, very different from others I've made. The sweetness and the balsamic and the horseradish cream were a long way from my usual braised srs with red wine, onions, garlic, mirepoix, etc.
Maybe I don't get out as much as I should! Or get into more varied recipes.
Katie Nell, thanks for organizing this! This cookbook is one of my faviorites. I have made a few things and all of them have been delicious but they are pretty labor intensive.
From "spring" we've had bouef a la Nicoise (menu 3). It was great and I froze some leftovers which reheated well.
From "summer" I made the heirloom tomato salad with burrata, etc from Menu 10. We served it at a party and everyone asked for more. The burrata can be sliced-- carefully, contrary to what I was told at the Cheese Store in Beverly Hills where I bought it. I also made the Grilled Halibut Nicoise from Menu 13. My husband thought it was the best halibut he's ever had. The sweet corn soup from menu 15 was divine. Even my kids loved it.
From "fall" I made the blackberry compote (menu 17). I had a bunch of leftover blackberries from something and I used them up by making this compote which i served over a pound cake from Sherry Yard's cookbook.
From "winter" the short rib recipe (25) is why I bought the book and they are as good as they are at Lucques. And finally, the Kabocha squash and fennel soup from menu 28 was divine but the candied pumkin seeds (which are addictive) were stickier than I expected after leaving them on a plate to cool.
I can't wait to hear what other hounds favorites are.
I bought this book a couple of weeks ago and did some cooking from it - will post later on the appropriate threads, but I wanted to note that it seemed to me that a lot of meat and fish recipes require advanced preparation (overnight marinating etc.) in recipes that at first glance I would not have thought required it. Since I had taken it with me on a weekend away and was cooking from it "at the last minute" so to speak this quickly became apparent and limited the things that I could cook. Not a complaint though - everything I did cook was fantastic.
I agree - the overnight seasoning definitely does - we made the boeuf a la nicoise and it was delicious ... my comment was in no way a criticism of the book, but rather just something for people to note. I often decide what to cook for dinner around 5pm that day, and realized that I'll need to plan ahead a bit more so that I can prepare these recipes per the instructions.
Katie Nell - chiming in with my thanks to you as well!
Roasted Beets with Horseradish Crème Fraiche, Sauteed Halibut with Arugula, Caramelized Bread Pudding with Chocolate and Cinnamon
Yellow Tomato Gazpacho, Grilled Halibut a la nicoise with Haricots Verts, Olives, Cherry Tomatoes, and Anchovy Butter
Chicken Paillards with Parmesan Breadcrumbs, Escarole, Capers, and Rosemary
Persimmon and Pomegranate Salad with Arugula and Hazelnuts, Spiced Pork Stew with Polenta, Roasted Root Vegetables with Gremolata and Polenta, Caramelized Bread Pudding with Chocolate and Cinnamon
Smashed Cannellini Bean Crostini with Feta Salsa Verde
Grilled Duck Breasts with Crème Fraiche, Roaste Grapes, and Potato-Bacon Gratin
Blood Oranges, Dates, Parmesan, and Almonds
Jessica's Favorite Meyer Lemon Tart with a Layer of Chocolate
38 recipes from Suzanne Goin, not necessarily from Sunday Suppers
And the record for World's Longest Recipe Titles goes to…. Suzanne Goin!! :-)
re: Katie Nell
re: Katie Nell
re: Katie Nell
I found a number of recipes which I included in this message. That way, if you're interested in cooking any of them, you just have to cut and paste. There may be a couple that aren't from the book, but the great majority are. Many are the same as the ones posted by Katie Nell above, but since I "cleaned them up" so that I could use them, I decided to post them here.
Regarding using Goil recipes that are NOT in Sunday Suppers at Lucques, I think that should be allowed for all the cookbooks we choose for the following reason: I cannot afford (and do not want) to buy every cookbook of the month, and several (including this one) are not in my library system. If there are loads of recipes on line for a particular cookbook of the month, great....if not, I think we should be able, with a comment before each post, to use recipes of the same cook that may not be in the book. To my knowledge, Goin doesn't have any other books, but some of the recipes on line are not in her book.
Please let me know what your thoughts are re this idea. Thnx.
There are 38 recipes on Bon App's website (Epicurious). Actually, it says there are 38 but I didn’t check all of them. Actually, since they are from a couple of years ago, I don't know if they're from the book of the month.
Don’t remember what this next one is or even if it’s a complete address…check it out.
wednesdaychef.typepad.com/the_wednesday_chef/2005/12/suzanne_goins_b.html - 28k -
Soupe au Pistou with Parmesan Croutons:
Goin’s recipe for Grilled Steak with tomato bread salad recipe is on the Food and Wine website.
Grilled Pork Confit
Oprah’s website has these recipes (I got to it by Googling Suzanne Goin
) Beets, Blood Orange and Mint Salad
Fennel and White Bean Salad
Goat Cheese with Figs and Walnuts
Steamed Fingerling Potatoes with Crème Fraîche
Grilled Lamb with Salsa Verde
Seared Tuna with Tapenade
Grilled Steak with Black Olive Aioli
Liete’s Culinaria also has Goin’s recipes
CARAMELIZED BREAD PUDDING WITH CHOCOLATE AND CINNAMON
SAUTÉED HALIBUT WITH ARUGULA, ROASTED BEETS, AND HORSERADISH CRÈME FRAÎCHE
SG'S SQUASH & FENNEL SOUP WITH CREME FRAICHE & CANDIED PUMPKIN SEEDS (adapted)
2 pounds kabocha squash (or substitute another winter squash -- I used butternut)
2 medium bulbs of fennel
4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
2 teaspoons fennel seeds
4 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 cups sliced onions
1 tablespoon thyme leaves
2 chiles de arbol
1 bay leaf
3/4 cup sherry
10 cups chicken or vegetable stock or water
1/4 cup creme fraiche
candied pumpkin seeds
kosher salt and freshly ground pepper
1. Preheat oven to 400 degrees
2. Cut squash in half lengthwise. Remove seeds and peel from squash and cut into inch thick wedges. Cut the fennel in half lengthwise and cut into 1 inch wedges. Toss the squash and fennel with olive oil, 1 teaspoon salt, and freshly ground pepper. Place the vegetables flat on a baking sheet and roast about 35 minutes, until tender and slightly carmelized.
3. Toast the fennel seeds in a small pan over medium heat until the seeds become fragrant and lightly browned, about 2 or 3 minutes. Pound them coarsely in a mortar.
4. Heat soup pot over high heat for 2 minutes. Add the butter and when it foams, add the onions, fennel seeds, thyme, chiles, bay leaf, 1 teaspoon salt, and a good amount of freshly ground black pepper. Reduce the heat to medium high and cook until the onions are translucent and starting to color.
5. Add the squash and fennel, and stir to coat with the onions for a minute. Turn the heat back up to high and pour in the sherry. Let it reduce for a minute or two, and then add the stock and 1 teaspoon salt. Bring to a boil, turn down the heat, and simmer 20 minutes.
6. Puree the soup in batches. Strain the solids from the broth, reserving both. Put a third of the solids into the blender with 1/2 cup of the broth. Process at low speed until the squash mixture is pureed. Add another 1/2 cup broth and puree at high speed. Add additional broth, a little at a time, until the soup has the consistency of heavy cream. Blend at least a minute on high speed until the soup is completely smooth and very creamy. Transfer to a container, and repeat with remaining ingredients. You may not need all the liquid. Taste for balance and seasoning. 7. Pour soup into bowls, spoon creme fraiche into center, and sprinkle with pumpkin seeds.
Candied Pumpkin Seeds
1/4 teaspoon cumin seeds
2 teaspoons unsalted butter
1/2 cup raw pumpkin seeds (pepitas)
1 tablespoon granulated sugar
Generous pinch each: ground cinnamon, cayenne, and paprika
1 teaspoon honey
1. Toast the cumin seeds in a small pan until the seeds are fragrant and lightly browned. Pound them coarsely in a mortar.
2. Melt the butter in the cumin pan over medium heat. Add the pumpkin seeds and sugar, then sprinkle the spices and a healthy pinch of salt over them. Toss the pumpkin seeds to coat them well with the butter, an cook a few minutes, until just after they begin to pop and color slightly. Turn off the heat, wait 30 seconds, then add the honey, and toss the pumpkin seeds until they are well coated. Spread on a plate and let them cool.
Recipes for Coriander and Cumin Flatbread as well as some other dishes in an article on Goin with Moroccan recipes in October 2006 issue of Bon Appetit (on Epicurious).
Yellow Tomato Gazpacho:
Grilled Halibut à la niçoise with Haricots Verts, Olives, Cherry Tomatoes, and Anchovy Butter:
Spiced Pork Stew with Polenta, Root Vegetables, and Gremolata:
Roasted Root Vegetables with Gremolata, and Polenta recipe:
Fava Bean Purée with Oil-Cured Olives, Feta, and Garlic Toasts:
Roasted Pear Salad with Endive, Hazelnuts and St. Agur:
Olive Oil and Couscous Cake with Dates – Recipe on Epicurious (From Bon App. Issue with Goin as chef of the year)
Chicken Paillards with Parmesan Breadcrumbs, Escarole, Capers, and Rosemary:
Lucques Pork Burger:
Warm Treviso radicchio and dandelion salad with soft-cooked egg:
California Grilled Lamb Burger with Cumin Yogurt:
Couscous Salad with Chickpeas, Dates & Cinnamon:
Thanks for sharing your work, oakjoan. I personally think it's fine to post about Goin's other recipes as long as we preface it w/ that. She doesn't have other books, and my library system doesn't have SS either.
I don't think I'll be cooking much from this book this month given that many recipes seem multi-layered and complex; I just don't have the time to cook like that right now and some dishes represent "restaurant food", not really home food for me. Don't get me wrong though, I'm a huge Suzanne Goin fan. Without having seen the book, it reminds me of restaurant recipes that are fun to look at but not really cook from on a regular basis. Goin's thoughtful and multi-layered approach makes her food taste so good at her restaurants though! (I've only been to AOC.)
I'm making Mother's Day dinner this Sun., and I'm thinking of making her soupe au pistou as well as meyer lemon and chocolate tart. I'd like to consider other recipes, but her flavors tend to be very "adult" and there will be a few kids present. The 10 y.o. is turning into quite the gourmand though!
re: Carb Lover
That's what I've heard. Sounds like she truly coaxes the maximum goodness out of her raw ingredients...simple and complicated at the same time. I've seen her on TV and have read articles on her and she seems like such a smart and sensitive chef to me.
Another reason why I have labeled her recipes very restaurant-like is the copious amounts of cream, oil, fat, salt, etc. I'm not fat or salt phobic by any means, but it's amazing how much of that stuff is in restaurant food.
re: Katie Nell
I have just checked the Sunday Suppers book out of the library. Last night I made the Spiced Snapper with Carrot Puree and Gingered Beets. This was more time-consuming and elegant than our usual Monday dinner. The snapper is marinated in harissa and is supposed to be cooked on a grill, but we don't have a grill in our small city apartment. I cooked it in a very hot pan and it turned out pretty well. I remembered fairly late that I'm not crazy about snapper, but this was a very decent preparation. The carrot puree was delicious and is a keeper, as are the gingered beets (the beet salad contains olive oil, cilantro, mint, lime juice, fresh ginger, a little bit of garlic, and shallots).