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seeking funky Memphis

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Visiting Memphis next weekend, looking for the best bbq, soul food, and meat-n-3s. No interest in tourist-y or upscale venues, and we fear no "questionable" neighborhoods. Past faves include A&R, Payne's, and a tiny soul food joint (can't recall the name - Dixie Kitchen, maybe?) Also seeking authentic music - has anything replaced Green's Lounge? thanks to all....

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