Reveiew of Susur/Lee in today's Star
- foodyDudey Apr 14, 2007 07:48 AM
Some of you may find this review of SUSUR and LEE interesting.
I haven't been there so can't comment on it.
By coincidence I was at Susur last night (Fri 13th) so one day before the review.
Astonishingly every course we had was different from any described by Amy Pataki! Either she was there some weeks or months back or kudos to Susur for changing the menu to feature whatever is fresh 'today' (and I know he shops daily - or used to).
Service has always been problematic at Susur - and again there seems to have been a complete turnover in serving staff.
But the cooking is way back on form - much better than my last visit (6 months ago). Bold flavours (e.g lamb in a peanut and green curry sauce with mint-chili chutney) dominate and although expensive for Toronto, see what $500 Cdn would get you in New York or London.
There were a few strange ingredients - a roasted corn/polenta/eggplant tart looked pretty but the texture and taste were bland - but who else in Toronto is even trying to create like this?
Susur can be challenging - I still don't like being served the heaviest (main) course first - it plays havoc with the wine. But this is one of the most creative chefs in Toronto. Not everybody will like it (and definitely the service could improve) but Toronto is better for having this choice, with a chef who is still taking risks instead of resting on his many laurels.