Braised Pork Belly (buta no kakuni)
I read with interest the discussion on buta no kakuni and it's health benefits.
I want to try making it.
In Vancouver we have a few Izakaya restaurants, my favourute being Kitanoya Guu With Garlic on Robson St. They serve a buta no kakuni that is sublime. The chopstick tender pork is covered with a thick, dark glaze that must be a reduction of the braising liquid. It is served on a few leaves off blanched cabbage with a perfect 4 minute boiled egg, split in half. The yolk is almost set and some scallions adorn it.
I prefer this version over the pork cubes in a thinner broth. It seem richer and more satisfying and I'm happy with the 1 small portion.
I have found some good recipes that I can finish to a similar state of the product from GUU. Only one mentioned daikon. None mentioned the complex blanching and rinsing procedure. Does anyone have a good recipe (a link to one) that I may play with?
Alright, I'm aware that this thread is four years old, but I came across it when I was researching for my own buta no kakuni experience, so I figure future people might also find it and be interested to hear another tale of obsessive re-creation.
Quick backstory: The buta no kakuni of my dreams is the one served at a hole-in-the-wall izakaya called Azuma in my hometown suburb of Los Angeles. I haven't had it anywhere else that I can remember, so I can't say for sure how my ideal results line up with other people's. However, I've had Azuma's many, many times and until recently didn't imagine that it was something that could ever be replicated at home.
Then I found the magical Peoria Packing Butcher Shop in Chicago and, long story short, came home with 6+ pounds of pork belly and a lot of determination to do kakuni right.
This thread was by far the most obsessive (and I mean that as a compliment) source of kakuni information I could find online, so I followed Da_Cook's method pretty closely. Here's what I did:
1) Grated a ton of daikon. And by a ton, I mean about three pounds, purchased at Whole Foods, the only store in town that carried it. I actually overestimated my needs a bit and bought four pounds, which cost something like $9--almost as much as my pork belly! But science is science.
2) Cut the pork belly (still a tiny bit frozen after defrosting) into approximately 3" x 3" squares, and salted them lightly on both sides in hopes of extra tenderization.
3) Spread the pork belly out over two baking pans, covered the pieces in the grated daikon, and popped them in the fridge overnight, uncovered.
4) The next morning, took out the baking pans, covered them tightly in foil, and put them in the oven at its lowest temperature (something like 250 degrees) for about 3 hours. Because who has a steamer that can hold 6 pounds of pork? After 3 hours, a skewer did indeed easily slide through the (now delightfully puffy) fat and skin, as well as (slightly less easily) through the meat.
5) Prepared the simmering broth in a 6-quart dutch oven. I more or less used the recipe from here: http://mmm-yoso.typepad.com/mmmyoso/2... (scaled up drastically), but to be honest, at the end I was just pouring stuff in to try to make it taste like I wanted it to. I did use sliced ginger instead of grated, and I added a bit of dashi no moto (for bonito flavor) and an anise star, as other recipes online suggested.
6) Reserved as much of the daikon and juice as I could from the pork, then rinsed the rest off in warm water and put the pork in the simmering sauce, covering it with a janky foil drop-lid. (I didn't do any browning because I'm pretty sure the buta no kakuni I was replicating isn't browned; it looks purely melted.)
7) From there, I basically just let it cook on super-low (I tried to keep it barely simmering) as long as possible. I did a few things several hours into cooking:
- Took the anise star and ginger out, since I didn't want the thing to actually taste like licorice or ginger.
- Took several cups of broth out and replaced them with water, since the whole thing seemed pretty strong. I got it to a point where it tasted just slightly weaker than I wanted the final product to taste, since I figured it would get concentrated in the pork and could be cooked down later.
- Added a tiny bit of rice vinegar and a few tiny pieces of lime (mostly because all I had of the rice vinegar was a tiny bit). I had tested the lean meat by this point and was paranoid it would turn out too tough, and I thought acid might help with the tenderization and possibly help cut a little of the strong soy-y, sugar-y taste. The taste was fine--did it help with tenderization? I really have no idea.
8) After that, it sat on the stove for about five hours, and then when I had to leave the house, I turned the oven to 300, stuck the dutch oven in, let it sit for about 20 minutes, then turned off the heat before I left. I came back maybe four hours later, took it out, let it cool, then refrigerated it.
9) The next day, I scraped off some of the congealed surface fat (saving it, of course, just in case) and re-simmered a small portion uncovered, cooking down the broth a tiny bit and heating the meat through.
I ate it with steamed spinach and hot mustard (the Azuma way), and I have to say, I knew from sample pieces that it was going to be good, but I did not expect it to be as good as it was. It was really, REALLY good. No, the lean meat wasn't completely falling apart, but the overnight refrigeration and re-heat did good things for it--it was tender enough for me and tasted great soaked in the broth. And the fat? Holy melting goodness. It was perfect. Perfect!
The most fascinating part was what the simmering did to the pork skin itself. My boyfriend had gotten the other half of the pork belly (yeah, 6 pounds was only half) and had made porchetta (rolled, 5-hour-roasted pork belly) with it--also amazingly melty pork-y goodness, but the skin, while incredibly delicious, was still chewy and difficult to bite or cut through. Steamed and simmered, the skin on my buta no kakuni was barely recognizable as the same substance--it was practically a gel. Yeah, the kakuni aficionados here know what I'm talking about.
Again, I can't say for sure how my ideal end product compares to others' (I'm guessing the Japan experience was fancier than what my little Californian restaurant does), but I'd say that mine was about 95% as good as what I get at the izakaya back home. I have no complaints.
Anyhow, thanks so much to Da_Cook and everyone else on this thread for helping make my buta kakuni experiment a success! I hope you've all also achieved the pork belly of your dreams.
Just stumbled across this lineeta, wow what an ordeal.
You did very well with this and I'm getting ready to do it again myself.
I think if you incorporated rice bran water into this preparation it would be even better. I also think the crucial cooling of the pork in it's own liquid overnight is the final key to success.
Love to hear if you would consider browning a piece or two just before the final reheat and what would the results be.
Goog luck, great cooking!
Hope you enjoyed my description of you and your posts. I've read some of your old posts and replies but couldn't get your log to appear on my browser. I've been neglecting ChowHound for some time. Lately I've been reading up on old posts and looking for opportunities to contribute. I'll do so really soon. I just don't want to rehash my blog, keep it all fresh.
I just finished a winter contract, working the Olympics, and now with some time off, I'm gonna do some cooking. Next trip to the City and will get me some nuka and fresh Berkshire pork belly. Buta one more time.
Thanks for the kind words.
i loved GUU i always go to the one in Thurlow though a lot closer...last time i have the braised pork belly it was divine...but the one before that was just tough...but i always go there for the food and the ice cold Sapporo...it's just perfect w/ pork...i'm gonna try this at work, my meat supplier just gave me a big slab of pork belly just this week and it's been sitting in my freezer calling me...looking at it makes my mouth just water...yum...thanks for all the input...
Made this recipie yesterday (and today). It was nothing short of amazing..
It's so addictive that I ate most of it before it was even properly finished!
the meat was amazingly tender, but still had a nice firm texture.. I tried the frying step on half of the batch, and didnt bother with the other half. I think the fried pieces were marginally better, but the spluttering made such a mess it probably wasn't worth it!
I might have over done the sauce a bit - it ended up like thick treacle. The only modification was to add chunks of ginger into the sauce.
I think i've consumed enough fat for a week but what the heck, it was darn good...
Sorry about the delay.
The Japanese dinner got put off again and I ended up doing this the night before I roasted my whole lamb for Easter.
Sigh, it wasn't that good.
It was tough and wasn't chop stick tender.
The taste was excellent and a non-pork eater, who I had to cajole into trying it, gobbled hers up. The eggs were over cooked too, I might as well have cooked them in the sauce as the original recipe intended.
I have some left over pieces that I will steam to reheat in the sauce. I post the results when I try this. I'm also gonna try this again from scratch with better pork and use the refinements discussed above. Watch for it in the next few weeks.
I'll take pictures next time as well.
Thanks for checking back in. The quest for the best kakuni will always continue. Looking forward to the pics. Nice rig ya' got there.
When I first did a recipe search on it a while back, I realized quickly that it's possible that the recipes with the most secrets are probably posted only in Japanese. I got hits from sites that had a little English to bridge the kanji/kana gap, but I bet that the keeper of the grail posts only in the Japanese characters. Are there any hounds out there who are fluent readers of Japanese who can help us gelatinize that pork belly?
I know I was a little sloppy in parts. I didn't have enough daikon for the amount of pork I was doing or sauce. I should have made enough to completely submerge the pork, at least until it began to reduce.
I'm still pretty confident in the recipe except for some details, like the blanching part. I can't help but wonder if I should skip that step and just marinade overnight in the daikon/ginger and next day steam then braise.
With the repeated caveat that I am NOT an expert on this dish (only an aspirer), I would add the raw daikon to marinate with the raw pork, to see if the two raws together are able to do some kind of enzymatic digestion that affects the fat cells.of the pork. The blanching (cleaning) can be done as effectively after marination.
Drop-lid type submerging would seem important to keeping the lean portion tender. It's so typical in Japanese cooking that it just seems to fit.
Daikon is usually paired with oily foods, but the enzymes involved deal with protein and starches, not fats. I can't think of any foods that get marinated in daikon, though octopus and abalone get washed in daikon oroshi sometimes. You may be barking up the wrong tree here. The recipe in the Kikunoi Kaiseki cookbook, though not Nagasaki based, called for a 16 hour simmering in rice rinse water. a cooling, a 10 min. steaming and then a final 30 min. simmering in water, black sugar, sake, soy sauce and haccho miso.
Ok, so what happened?
Well, my Japanese dinner got postponed/cancelled 'til next Thursday.
The Pork is sitting, covered in a pyrex dish in my commercial fridge. The sauce is on the side in a tupperware tub. I guess I'm now testing my theory that it will hold for a week and that a little controlled decomposition will help out the texture.
So, when I got canceled, I took my son to Vancouver to see the Auto Show.
We went to GUU afterwards and, of coarse, we ordered two orders of Kakuni.
It wasn't as good as I remember, in fact it wasn't much more tender than my batch. The head chef was on, so I quizzed him about their version. Yes, they steam then chill then braise; no they don't use Kombu or Daikon. He didn't have anything to add about health benefits either.
Well, I'll post again after we do have it. Also my Barbecue teammates wants to know if we can do this in the smoker for the appetizer entry at the Canadian national BBQ Championship. You know, if I use only charcoal and no wood, it could just work.
Intersting insights on the GUU dish versus yours.
Did they mention the nuka thing?
The dish in Tsuji, Shizuo, Japanese cooking:,1980, was named "Nagasaki braised pork", where he describes the nuka step. Maybe someone has a copy and could paraphrase the procedure for the rice bran (nuka) step?
Ok, it's in the oven braising and the smell is GOOOOD!
I took the pan from the fridge with the cold pork sitting in beautiful pork jelly and put it in a cold oven. I set it to 275 just to melt the stock. I made the sauce and heated it to melt the sugar.
I took the pork from the oven and fried the squares in Sesame oil, skin side down. There was much splattering and popping. I turned them after a few minutes and did the other side. I now wish I had deep fried them for a more even browning. That will happen next time.
I put them in a roasting pan, skin side down, and added the sauce. It wasn't enough. I reserved 1 cup of my golden pork stock for cooking the cabbage and added the rest to the pan. I covered the pork with a loose sheet of parchment and then tightly sealed the pan with foil. It's now braising for an hour. After which I'll remove the foil, flip the pork over and braise it uncovered for another hour.
Wish me luck, I'll report again on my progress.
It's been 3 hours and I'm not happy.
I checked the meat after two hours and found the meat too firm, like stew meat that has gone a bit dry.
I gave it another hour. I just took it out of the oven and picked off a piece of meat. It is tough and stringy. It is tasty as all heck, but in no way could it be eaten with only chopsticks.
I'm not sure what to do. My inclination is to let it cool in the sauce, set the meat aside, reduce the sauce and try reheating a piece tomorrow. Maybe this final step will help.... I hope I didn't over cook it somehow.
There's nothing like real-time cooking on Chowhound... maybe soon they'll give us webcam capability and we can visit each other's kitchens.
I can feel your pain, even half a continent away. The difference between the "streak and lean" is a perennial problem in pork belly, even when sliced as breakfast bacon.
Here's what I'd do at this point:
1) Chow down, suck, slurp and savor the taste of the fat on a few of the pieces, yet reserving the lean layer that has gone hard and stringy; these will serve as your test strips for tomorrow. Chewing some fat tonight will not only give you pleasure, but will give your alimentary canal some fair warning of what it can expect tomorrow.
2) Store the rest of the whole cubes in a jar, to let the cylinder submerge the chunks in juice.
3) Tomorrow, use a stovetop simmer method for reheat, with a drop lid resting right on top of the barely floating meat, to keep steam/bubbles in direct contact with the meat. Use a thinned refortified version of the sauce for the simmer, reserving the bulk of today's sauce for your serving reduction.
3a) Use your test strips of "lean" to test at 15 min intervals by taking a tiny bite into the meat. You may find that it will soften.
Keep havin' fun.
I did in one square already and though chewy, it was tasty.
The rest is for tomorrow, a Japanese themed dinner, I've got lots of unagi, tuna & salmon plus a whack of seaweed salad. The beauty of it is that none of my family or guests have ever had this before.... so low expectations can be easily met. And... I know it's tasty.
I had a similar experience the last time I made Wild Boar Ragu, after day two, it was still tough and stringy, so I chopped it up and added some Pecorino Romano, a dollop of creme fraiche and HOT DAMM after another hour simmering it was sublime.
My glass is half full and I still have another chunk of pork belly to try again!
The Japanese butchers bring it in from Oregon and Alberta. It's barley fed and a superior product.
I can also get it from Vancouver Island as there are lots of farmers raising it there. There is even a butcher shop in Nanaimo that specializes in it.
Finally, Hills Foods in Coquitlam, BC sells loins and tenders and occasionally the belly.
I've been silently reading your posts. I've actually never had this dish but I LOVE pork belly and it sounds absolutely delicious. I can't wait to read your results.
I came across a Thai-style braised pork belly but have yet to try. What do you think?
Kind words MeowMix, thanks.
I liked how the Thai version read, it was similar to a Korean and Vietnamese version I saw in my research. They all use some local ingredient to tenderize and improve the pork's texture. It's cool how eggs and pork belly are friends in so many cultures (we can add bacon and eggs and Spaghetti Carbonara to that list)
I made this tonight. I followed the recipe pretty much exactly, adding peeled hard-boiled eggs to the braising liquid with about 20 minutes to go. I sliced the eggs and pork belly and then used them as the protein for your typical bahn mi sandwich. It turned out really well, and I have plenty of leftovers for something else tomorrow.
Ok, this is pretty pathetic, I'm replying to myself.
But... I've done some serious research and followed all the clues from the other Kakuni discussion:
Here's my recipe, and tomorrow I'll put it to the test with a delivery of 3 lbs. of fresh Berkshire Pork Belly. I'll get back you you (LOL!) with the results.
Buta no Kakuni
(Japanese Pork Belly Squares)
6 - 8 servings
2 pounds pork belly, cut into 2- 3 inch pieces
1 piece Kombu Seaweed
1 medium daikon, grated fine w/ juices
1 2” chunk fresh ginger, grated w/ juices
1 large leek, split along the length, and rinsed of grit
1 tsp black pepper, freshly ground
2 tbsp sesame oil
1/2 cup soy sauce
1/2 cup sake
1/2 cup mirin
1/2 cup brown sugar
1/4 cup Japanese black vinegar
1 medium egg, per square of pork
I head napa or savoy cabbage
1 bunch scallions, sliced super thin on the bias.
This is purely a “washing” phase to remove excess proteins, impurities and strong odors.
Put the pork cubes and the Kombu in a pot and cover with cold water. Slowly bring to boil over medium/low heat. Allow pork to simmer 2 – 3 minutes, remove from heat and let cool. Rinse and pat dry.
This is the crucial flavoring and tenderizing step.
Set steamer over a pot of rapidly boiling water
In a heatproof dish that it will fit the steamer, place 1/3 of the grated daikon, ginger and liquid over the bottom of the dish. Place the pork belly on top of grated daikon. Cover the pork with the remainder of grated daikon and lay the leeks over top.
Transfer dish to steamer and steam for 2 to 2 1/2 hours. Use a bamboo skewer after about 90 minutes to see how tender the pork belly is. Remember to keep replenishing the steaming water as necessary.
Once the pork can be easily pierced with a bamboo skewer, remove the dish from the steamer. Place the pork belly in a bowl of lukewarm water and gently rinse the pork. Dry the pork with paper towel, and cool. Strain the liquid and reserve. Defatted, it will be used to cook the cabbage later.
It would be best to refrigerate the pork, uncovered, overnight to dry the skin.
The purist should omit this step. This is purely a flavour enhancer. The purist should skip the braising too and go to the “Or Boiling” instructions.
The next day, preheat a Dutch Oven. Add 1 tbsp sesame oil, adding more as needed. Fry the cold pork cubes in batches ‘till golden brown on all sides.
Drain the remaining oil from the pan, and add the soya, sake, mirin, brown sugar & vinegar. Add the pork and bring to a simmer, it should all fit in one layer. Put in the oven and braise with just the skin out of the liquid. This will make crispy crackling skin possible.
Cook over low heat fro 45 mins to 1 hour. Remove pork from sauce and reduce liquid ‘til thick enough to coat the back of a spoon. At this point the pork and sauce could be cooled again and kept refrigerated for up to a week until ready to serve.
Serving (if Braising):
Place the pork in a single layer in an oven proof pan. Gently reheat the sauce and pour over the pork. Put pork in oven and reheat at 300 degrees until warm thru and skin is crisp. Risk the broiler for 2 or 3 minutes if you dare.
Cook the cabbage in the reserved, defatted pork stock or, alternatively, steam it.
Place the eggs in a pan just covered with cold water. Bring to a boil, remove from heat and let rest in the hot water 4 minutes. Plunge into cold water and cool ‘till just warm.
On a small plate or bowl, make a 4” square bed of cooked cabbage just slightly off center. Peel an egg and carefully split in half. The yolk should be barely set, just a bit less than hard-boiled. Place the egg halves on the plate opposite the cabbage. Finely, place a square of Buta No Kakuni on the bed of cabbage. Sprinkle all lightly with scallions. Serve with a small bowl of steamed Japanese rice. Enjoy.
If the skin is cracklin’ crispy, and the thick, sweet sauce is just running off the pork, down into the cabbage, enjoy it even more.
This is the way to finish the dish in the traditional style.
Add the soya, sake, mirin, brown sugar & vinegar to a pot. Add the cooled, steamed pork squares and bring to a gentle simmer. Cook over lowest heat for 45 mins to 1 hour. At this point the pork and sauce could be cooled again and kept refrigerated for up to a week until ready to serve.
Serving (if Boiling):
Place the pork and sauce in a pan. Gently reheat.
Meanwhile steam the cabbage until just tender. At the same time place the eggs in a pan just covered with cold water. Bring to a boil, remove from heat and let rest in the hot water 5 minutes. Plunge into cold water and cool ‘till just warm. Peel and add whole eggs to the pork & sauce. Simmer 10 to 20 minutes.
On a small plate or bowl, make a 4” square bed of cooked cabbage. Place a Pork square and an egg on the cabbage. Sprinkle all lightly with scallions. Serve with a small bowl of steamed Japanese rice. Enjoy.
It's good to see a fellow Pilgrim in Progress toward the Nirvana of the Buta.
Not to mix metaphors of John Bunyan with pork belly, nor even Siddhartha with stewed meat... but this is a dish that is possible to tweak to the sublime. Many Japanese restaurants specialize in it, because of the long preaparation.
Da Cook, your post indicates that you've nailed the recipe literature efforts. I saw the Daikon technique, ( I believe in a library copy of Shimbo, Hiroko,The Japanese kitchen), and pondered the difference between it and the bran-simmered techniques that Tsuji, Shizuo, Japanese cooking:,1980 recommended.a an overnight dehydration in rice bran.
We had a thread going a while back (craving that search engine now) in which I recall cgfan and kareraisu sharing an interest in perfecting this dish.
You're fortunate to have a local restaurant that does this dish well. One of the top 10 food experiences of my life was to randomly choose a restaurant on a short trip to Nagasaki, and with no prior knowledge of buta no kakuni, I asked for their best local specialty. This happened 22 years ago and I will never forget it.
The four small 2" squares of pork belly were presented as a four-square in a shallow bowl, with very little extra saucing. Skin side was up; skin was browned but was not stiff or crunchy: a total opposite of "cracklin's".
The blunt disposable chopsticks, when pressed vertically on top of the fat, slid gently thru the chunk of belly. Astounding. When the first bite of fat hit my mouth, it did not feel heavy or greasy. It was as if the structure of the fat cells was present, but the fat globules within each cell had somehow been reduced. Light and spongy.
After I had finished the first two squares, I motioned for the staff and asked to order another portion of four. With obvious embarrassment, the waiter explained that I had been served the last portion; regular patrons knew to always call two days ahead to pre-order the 2 day preparation. Now it was me who was embarrassed for committing such a faux pas. But our mutual chagrin was tied to the mutual pleasure that the dish had been so well prepared and was now being well enjoyed.
And, I still had two squares remaining in my bowl. They were savored as no "last bites" have ever been before or since.
Ten years later I got a copy of Tsuji's recipe, and used rice bran (nuka) as the simmering medium. But I somehow didn't get it quite right. Gave up on a few future attempts where I simply browned then stovetop braised, which is what most "homestyle recipes" call for.
Those relative failures were excellent and tasty, but they did not recreate the heavenly structure of the fat that I had in the 2 day prep dish in Nagasaki.
So, here's how I'm going to try it next time:
1) Marination in grated raw daikon for enzymes, overnight, in an attempt to affect the fat.
2) Steaming, in the daikon marinade, using the method you describe above.
3) After patting dry and an air dry, a quick deep fry only to give a uniform gentle browning.
4) Stovetop braise with a drop lid. Ingredients as Da Cook's above. Store overnight or longer..
5) Prior to service, fat removal from cooled sauce surface, then stovetop re-braise, and reduce sauce to a demiglace.
If anyone has used nuka (rice bran) a la Tsuji 1980, please chip in.
Da Cook, have you tried to get a few hints and secrets from the folks at Kitanoya Guu With Garlic?
Thanks for joining the conversation. I was getting tired of discussing this with myself.
I will talk to the GUU people, but right now I'm in Whister and Vancouver is 2 hours away.
Can you tell me a bit more about the rice bran? I must of missed this. All I recall is that the meat was packed in the bran to dry it after steaming. Do you say that it is cooked with it too?
Anyway, I started my recipe. I'm already thinking that after the blanching step I should have done as you suggested and marinated in the Ginger Daikon mixture before steaming. But that would have added a 3rd day and everything I've read says it's a two day process.
I've finished the steaming process and have strained the liquid. The meat is in a pyrex dish in a single layer. I'm chilling the liquid so I can lift off the fat. I plan to add it to the pork in the dish so the skin will dry overnight in the fridge but the meat on the bottom will stay moistened.
I'll report back tomorrow after the next steps.
Just an update....
Once I cooled and de-fatted the steaming liquid I tasted it.
It had strained out golden and clear and was rich and porky, subtle not harsh. There was a strong taste of ginger but the daikon and leeks had muted to the background and played the role of support. I wasn't really sure if this liquid was to be kept or tossed in the traditional preparation but after trying it, you could not pry it from my cold, dead fingers!
So I added it to the pan and it came halfway up the sides of the pork. Perfect, the meaty bottom halves were now encased in this stock and the fatty, skin top-sides were open to the elements of my fridge to dry out.
This morning I peeked at it and the stock had set clear and stiff. To me, that means the skin had broken down to provide the gelatin and that the daikon had played it's part. The skin itself was shiny, golden hued and still very pliable, even cold. The omens are good, I will continue!
I'll report again after I do the Braise this PM.
Sounds like you're gonna have some good eats tonight.
The rice bran thing comes from two places: 1) a tip from a japanese friend about adding nuka to one of the simmers, followed by 2) the overnight drying of cleaned pieces in dry nuka, for an osmosis dehydration, as in Tsuji 1980. As I recall, Tsuji 1980 does not prescribe a simmering in nuka.
The daikon thing is inspired by I believe the Shimbo book. (Both books are presently being warehoused on the shelf space of my local library, so I cannot quickly consult them). He opened my eyes to the steaming in daikon, and I simply asked myself what would occur enzymatically if the Raw pork and the Raw daikon were able to interact overnight.
DC, I appreciate your cataloging of each step, and look forward to your next reply.
This thread just may call for a "comparative kakuni cookoff", with each participant trying 2 or 3 of the variably stepped recipes in their kitchen to compare the subtly different results.
For those hounds who may be reading this thread and wondering about the basics of a quicker homestyle rendition of this dish, see this link, with pics:
That's a GOOD link at ...yoso....
He brings in several points:
1) Okara as another enzyme source/osmotic dehydrator. It's tough to find in the boonies, unles you make your own soymilk or tofu, or have access to a tofu-making shop. As a lifelong lover of "melding" different approaches in recipes, may I submit the concept of 1/2 okara and 1/2 grated daikon as an overnight enzymatic source for the raw pork?
2) He emphasizes Nagasaki. It was where the europeans ( Dutch) first got a foothold in Japan. One of the most significant of their culinary introductions was the concept of deep frying in oil. as in tempura. Without a doubt, the kakuni I had in Nagasaki had been gently deep-fried at some point in its preparation, just to yield a caressing exterior browning.