What to order at... Range?

[wittlejosh]

Going to Range tonight. Any suggestions on how to order? I like all ingredients.

[ngardet]

If the coffee rubbed pork shoulder is still on the menu, go for it. Chicken is always good.

[readingstand]

I agree: the coffee...shoulder is a classic for a reason. (Several months after they opened, the chef took it off the menu for a while so it wouldn't become like the chicken or the steak with fries at Delfina--i.e., something he could *never* take off the menu.) It is very comfort-food-y; if you're in the market for that, you can't do better, but it's not subtle or delicate, and is fairly heavy and--my one mild criticism--a bit monotonous in weight/texture/mouthfeel with the tender, heavy, slow-cooked pork, creamy hominy, and braised greens. But again, super tasty. The chicken is indeed great--a perfectly prepared roast chicken (a little firmer in style than many) that's always on the menu, usually with a bright, effective light sauce/jus, and a setup that changes every few weeks. (So when you become a regular, you'll end up having the chicken every third or fourth visit.) If you can share, I'd consider, for contrast, getting the shoulder or chicken, on one hand, and one of the fish entrees--I haven't tried the ones currently on the website menu, but have had fish numerous times at Range and always found it very well to impeccably done.
In appetizers, I'd strongly recommnend the chicken liver mousse (mmm) and the raw fish of the day, which is a nice light simple contrast to all the cooked/sauced etc. things on the menu.
Most importantly, the desserts completely rock--definitely save room (in case you're one of those strange people for whom that requires saying). Everything the pastry chef does is excellent; the chocolate souffle, in particular, is the coffee-rubbed pork shoulder of the dessert menu, while the tarts are always pretty much Platonically ideal--amazingly fresh fruit beautifully arranged a perfectly light, buttery-but-not-too, firm-but-never-chewy, simple crust with a clever ice cream pairing. (The menu currently on the website lists a rhubarb tart with candied ginger ice cream, which has pretty much convinced me to go myself tonight or very soon.)

[Doodleboomer]

I would go with the chicken for sure (best in town) and their fish is usually fantastic too. if you are in the mood for red meat or pork, go for it, but i think their chicken and fish is much better...

[wittlejosh]

Thanks for your help and suggestions. We had a truly delightful meal there. The service was a little clumsy, but in the endearing way as opposed to the distracting way. The server was very sweet.

I started with the Eva cocktail, a blend of tequila, mandarin, peach liqueur, lemon & lime juice. Pretty solid. DC ordered The Long Goodbye, tangerine white tea infused vodka,elderflower syrup, lime juice. I slightly preferred his drink.

Moved on to the half bottle ($26) of Hirsch grüner veltliner; a nice, somewhat floral wine that was pleasant, if not incredible. Though a grüner's mostly supposed to be pleasant, anyway.

I started with the crudo of Arctic char, with radish, Meyer lemon, and flaky salt ($11). Fresh, fine---a tad understated, for my tastes. Perhaps a touch more Meyer lemon would have given it the extra acidic contrast I craved.

DC went with the marinated beet salad with shaved fennel, blue cheese and watercress ($9.50). Very nice. The earthy, tender beets played off the sharp, pungent bits of blue cheese perfectly, and the shaved fennel added a nice herbaceous aspect.

We shared a midcourse (oink, oink) of stuffed ravioli (chicken sausage? can't remember...), four plump dumplings served in a buttery broth. Rich, decadent, and the perfect amount.

For an entree, I went with the above-recommended chicken. Salty and well crisped, the texture of the breast meat was solid but moist (as opposed to brined) and the dark meat pulled off the bone. The fennel sausage added a deep, savory complexity, brightened by the pea tendrils and sherry jus. Excellent. I never would have looked twice at it without the recco above.

DC got the celebrated coffee-rubbed pork shoulder. I thought it was pretty tasty, but DC complained of livery overtones. But then there's no way it could have lived up to the high expectations.

Too full for dessert, thanks to the midcourse, DC had a hot tea and I enjoyed a snifter full of Lagavulin Scotch. Smoky, honeyed, delicious.

What a great experience. I thought the price point was right on, and it's now on my list of places to return next time I'm in SF.

Thanks again for the suggestions.

[readingstand]

Thanks for the very discerningly detailed report! I'm glad that we steered you to the chicken, though sad that I failed to convince you of the *imperative* nature of dessert (though I suppose that the exellent ravioli could be, to someone other than me, worth it ;^) )

[pane]

Their excellent cocktails are a recommended precursor to your meal. Last time I went, my friend and I very much enjoyed the coffee-rubbed pork shoulder and bavette steak.

[Atomica]

In my experience, it depends on who is bartending. Some make pretty good cocktails; some make great cocktails. There's a man who works there (I hope he does still, at least) who also owns a liquor store--he makes fabulous cocktails. I always ask him for a Sazerac, but I wouldn't trust anyone else to make it well.