Simmering Bolognese Sauce . . .?
I'm about to put up a big pot of Bolognese sauce. Two similar recipes, both from trusted sources, both calling for very similar ingredients, give slightly different simmering instructions. One says, "Bring the sauce to a boil, then lower the heat and cover. Slowly simmer for 1 1/2 to 2 hours, stirring now and then until the sauce is very thick." The other says, "...bring to a simmer. Reduce the heat to low so that the sauce continues to simmer just barely ... until the liquid has evaporated, about 3 hours." No mention of a cover in this second recpe (and there wouldn't be if the liquid needs to evaporate).
So -- cover or no cover? And how long should a Bolognese sauce simmer?
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Uncovered. Putting the cover on will increase the temperature (bad - you really want this at the barest of simmers if you want the best flavor and reduction) and cause condensation to drip back into the pot, which is undesirable for a ragu. Uncovered at a bare simmer takes longer, and 3 hours is not too long by any means. I do three reductions: first the milk (this takes the longest, often 90 minutes, because milk raises the simmering point), then the wine (might be 45-60 minutes), then the broth/tomato (30-45 minutes, depending on my mood). In that order, because it keeps the acidic ingredients (wine, then tomato) for later, and thus results in a better and more balanced flavor and texture.
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Marcella Hazan writes that the sauce should cook at the laziest of simmers, with just an intermittent bubble breaking through to the surfface, UNcovered, for 3 hours or more. "At the end," she continues, "the fat must separate from the sauce." And it will, especially if you used ground chuck (80% lean), enough butter (3 tablespoons per pound of beef), and whole milk (1 cup per pound, added BEFORE the white wine). I've never had better Bolognese than Hazan's.
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re: Tom Steele
I just looked up Marcella's recipe and see that she uses a total of 3/4 lb. of meat and that it's all chuck. One of my recipes calls for 2 lbs. of meat, half beef and half pork, with about the same amount of other ingredients (celery, carrots, milk, tomatoes). Now I'm more confused than when I first posted my question.
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