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Mar 12, 2007 08:12 PM

campo de fiore

i'll be taking an apartment in april. any suggestions for late dinners? deb and i will also appreciate any enoteca/bar-type suggestions. thanks.

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    1. Well first of all, every dinner is late in Italy, so that's not a problem. You would be hard pressed to find a good place to eat before 8pm. I lived just off the "Campo" for a year so here are my favorites: If you like seafood you have to eat at " Osteria del'Pesce" (Hosteria?sp?) which is just a couple blocks away on Via Giulia or Via Monserrato. You will need an advance reservation. It is very popular, a favorite of many Italian celebs. etc. Casual yet expensive, but worth it. Definitely splurge. It is one of my favorite restaurants ever, anywhere and I'm not alone. If you want meat, go to 'Da Sergio, also a few blocks away. Great grilled meats & pasta. Simple, super casual, inexpensive. Stay away from "Carbonara" in the square. Touristy and mediocre. There are several good bars for wine in the square most good, I can't remember the names. There also some great places in the surrounding streets, but I can't tell you the names of those either. You'll have to sniff them out. For lunch try a "porchetta" (roasted pork sandwich) at the take out place at the north-east corner of the square, can't remember the name, but the porchetta is their specialty. Also be sure to try the "pizza bianca", a delicious salted flatbread, at Al Forno (?) bakery on the north end of the square. You will notice the crowds lining up for it. It's worth the fight to get in. Another favorite restaurant was a bit further on the other side of Piazza Navona, but a nice walk. It's called "Maccheroni". Try the pasta alla Gricia, a simple Roman classic-pasta w/pancetta. Mmmm! Maybe follow it with a grilled steak. Make a reservation or risk sitting in the basement. Also be sure to eat at "La Gigetto" in the "Jewish Ghetto" -amazing fried things-especially the carciofi (artichokes). Also a nice walk from the "Campo". I always preferred eating away from the Campo so we could enjoy the walk home and digest dinner...I am going back for a few days next week and sad I won't have time to eat everywhere...

      1. thanks for your recommendations. my apartment won't have internet access. do you know of any public "hotspots" in the area?

        7 Replies
        1. re: steve h.

          There's a big internet place near the movie theaters on via Tritone. When I was last in Rome, there was a problem with sending data from your own computer at an internet point within 1 mile of the Senate buildings. One can only guess why. Also, had to show passport to use the internet. There is free wireless service in Villa Borghese gardens. Varying reception depending on location.

            1. re: steve h.

              I remembered another location: On Piazza Minerva, just southeast of the Pantheon. It's in a group of shops, almost across from the "Foot of Marble".

              1. re: mnosyne

                Is that the place that serves obscene portions of anitpasti dishes? I think we went there - there were three of us - and we couldn't stop laughing at all the dishes and they were spilling over. I forget the name, but it had really nice terrace seating and the food was really good by the way. Service was great too.

                1. re: mnosyne

                  Oh nevermind 9to my prior post) - you are talking about internet hotspots not restaurants.

                  1. re: FIFO22

                    "obscene portions of antipasti" are never out of line. thanks for the tip.

              2. re: mnosyne

                There's also an Internet place on Corso Vittorio Emmanuele III near Piazza Navona, I believe.

            2. On the way to Piazza Navona there is the famous pizzeria, Da Baffetto and a great wine bar across the street down a few meters. Via del Governo Vecchio. Giolitti (gelateria) is only about 10 minutes away too...

              2 Replies
              1. re: Campania

                love the wine bars. i made Trimani my home-away-from-home last visit.

                1. re: steve h.

                  You shouldn't miss enoteca il goccetto (via del banchi vecchi 14)though it just says vino olio outside. Been there forever, great selection of wines by the glass, you can get plates of meats and cheeses to eat. Also they are open late. However it can sometimes get pretty full (its a small place) around apertivo time.
                  Campo de Fiori itself is filled with places calling themselves winebars where they sell cheap wine by the glass and young tourists to to get drunk. The wine is not generally very good, but if thats the kind of evening you are looking for.......I would stick with Goccetto.
                  Also between campo dei fiori and largo arenula is(are) Roscioli, they have a great bread bakery and an alimentari/restuarant near campo di fiori. The alimentari is pretty expensive but has some great stuff. I don't know if you will be in italy long enough to be craving non italian food but one of the side streets off campo di fiori has a pretty good middle eastern counter/take away place.
                  There was an articile about citysponsered free wifi the other day, and I think campo dei fiori was not yet covered, would have to follow up
                  Bar apertivo wise,behind the pantheon you could also check out Riccioli (can be expensive but they generally have the better mixed drinks in rome and nice wines by the glass) They do an aperitivo thing around six with buffet included, and they have tables outside. Its across the street from maccheronni (I've never eaten well or had decent service there, but its popular on this site) . There are also other bars in that area.
                  Have a fun trip