Help me, Ronda (and Carmona,Cordoba,Granada)
NYC hound will be travelling in Andalusia in late May. Would appreciate any and all suggestions for the above places and environs. Have car, will travel, Thanks to all
Tragabuches is your answer, it's probably the best restaurant in Ronda or the vicinity of Pueblo Blanco. If you are still looking for hotel is that area, I would highly recommend El Juncal. It's a boutique hotel renovated from a finca, their breakfast is totally out of the world.....the sweetest fresh squeezed OJ I ever tasted, I can't go on about the scrambled egg. They just use the freshest and best ingredient.
I just came back from Cordoba, so some thoughts:
La Cavea in the Plaza de Jeronimo Paez - really cheap tapas. They had a pretty large selection - the moorish meat skewers and the solmorejo were particularly good. They also had some tables outside if you don't like the smoke.
Bodegas Campos - we went here for our dining highlight, and got the tasting menu. It was 48 euros (I think) for 6 courses. It was good, but it was a little expensive (especially considering the exchange rate), and I thought it was really stuffy and old fashioned.
We liked Bodegas Campos. I didn't find it particularly stuffy. But it's not the kind of place where I would go for a tasting menu--is traditional with a capital "T" (which mean the best bets are the local dishes like ajoblanco, salmorejo, rabo de toro, cordero en caldereta, alboronía, etc.). I'd go back just to have their ajoblanco again. I liked it better than the (similarly traditional) El Churrasco and El Caballo Rojo. Another, more modern, possibility is El Choco. The young chef there has gotten good buzz, we haven't been able to check it out yet. It's a bit out of the center of town.
The skewered meat tapa is called pincho moruno.
In Granada, you might check out the marisquería Bar FM (assuming you like seafood and shellfish).
Here is our culinary list from our trip last summer. It was awesome!
Foodie heaven too!
LA BARRACA RESTAURANTE
a bit touristy but great paella
We had a casual pizza/pasta meal at one of the outdoor spots on the river at the base of the Alhambra.Don't remember the name but they were all busy and looked good.
We ate at the Parador for lunch...pricey and not exciting food.
for dinner they serve sushi but after hours it turns in to a hot dance club on the beach
Not to be missed!! excellent, excellent, contemporary Med. cuisine in the center of old town
RESTAURANTE CASA SANTA.POLA
The oldest restaurant in Andalucia. Perched on a hillside, a special evening!
REST.TABERNA PEPE LA JUDERIA
we had lunch, it was excellent
CASA DE LOS REYES BAEZA RESTAURANTE
excellent trendy cuisine
TABLAO FLAMENCO EL ARE
Flamenco show only
CASA MANOLO LEON
a locals favorite, excellent food, request the courtyard
There is a wonderful bakery in Ronda owned by an Italian that makes dynamite pastries. I posted about it when I returned from there roughly 2y ago. Sadly, I just searched for my post and couldn't find it. Most of the bakeries I tried there were quite mediocre (good looking pastries that taste only so-so, at best). This one was outstanding. It's on a small street that doesn't get a lot of foot traffic and could be easily overlooked. Our hotel pointed us in the direction of it and we ended up going there daily. The owner doesn't speak any English, but we were able to communicate in Spanish about his products, his preferred ingredients, shared horror at margarine, etc.
If you have any way of finding this bakery (I know, not likely based on this description), I would wholeheartedly recommend it. There was another restaurant there we enjoyed a great deal, but I have an equally shoddy memory of the name of that place. It was away from the town center, on a square, with a bar on the first floor and dining on the second. It's one of those places where the generally bring you what they have bought fresh. It was some of the homiest, best food I ate while there.
We had a patchy meal at Tragabuces on our visit. The good was great but over a long tasting menu there were a few lows, although this is often true at other MG style places. Wine can be corked at any restaurant, I assume they changed the bottle when you pointed it out?
Opposite the Parador in Ronda there is a small street with a few bars/cafes that have tables and chairs in the street. The very modern/trendy Tapas bar which is the 2nd or 3rd place is very good.
Yes, to be fair Phil they did,They say one out of seventeen bottles is corked, I know but they replaced it with a different Rioja which was unimpressive to say the least, but at that point they gave me "the pain in the ass" look and I just was underwhelmed with all the foams and such.Oh well!
In Ronda - our favourite of all the towns so far, you MUST go to Almocobar restaurant it is excellent! Highly recommend the prawns al pil pil (chilli and beautiful oil in a steel pot) and if there are 2 of you share the veal which you cook for yourself on a heated stone, amazing!!! We were recommended this restaurant by a winemaker from Ronda we met in Malaga and she goes there to drink her own pinot noir as they have sold out. This wine was amazing and went beautifully with the veal, it's Los Aguilares and the only pinot noir on the menu.
In Granada we loved Los Diamantes, have the lettuce hearts with garlic they are incredible!! The fried prawns are also fresh and delectable.