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Feb 27, 2007 01:27 PM

SE Asia Food Trip, Need 3rd Destination

Making my second trip to Thailand. Meeting a food-writer friend in Bangkok. He's then heading off to Chiang Mai and Ko Samui. I've been to Bangkok and Chiang Mai before. Felt like I covered most of what I wanted to experience in Chiang Mai, so I'm not planning on joining him up there. (Though an advanced class at the Thai Cookery School is tempting.)

Instead, I'm planning on going to Kuala Lumpur. 50,000+ hawkers sounds like my kind of town. And I love Malaysian food.

I've got two weeks total. I'm thinking about 4 days in Bangkok, perhaps about the same in KL. So that leaves a few days for another destination. I was considering Vietnam, but I'm trying to make this trip on a budget and flights to Vietnam are about triple or more anywhere else in SE Asia, it seems. Would have loved to hit Ho Chi Minh. Oh well, another time.

I thought I'd look at Indonesia -- very much like Indonesian food --, though I don't know the best cities for food travels. But then I saw that Jakarta is having terrible flooding and malaria and dengue fever is out and about.

So, now I'm leaning towards Singapore. Wouldn't have to deal with another language and it sounds like a great food city. However, I was hoping to get a little more variety and I worry that the food scene in Singapore and KL will be too similar. I'm opening a restaurant this summer and will be working many hours without a chance for travel in the foreseeable future, so I want to pack as much in this trip as possible.

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  1. Saigon would be well worth the investment for someone opening a restaurant.

    If you don't go to Saigon, quit worrying and go to Jakarta. It will be worth it.

    Singapore has as much or more to offer than KL.

    5 Replies
    1. re: Sam Fujisaka

      My experience has been the opposite between Singapore and KL. I found there to be so much more depth and variety in the various hawker centers around KL, where the hawker centers in Singapore seemed to offer the same general things, especially chicken and rice, Sing noodles, satays and nasi lemak. All of our friends in Singapore are glad to visit us in KL when we are visiting my wife's family, as it gives them an excuse to go on a food binge. Alot of Singaporeans go to Malaysia for the food, not only because of the favorable exchange rate, but also because they say the food tastes better there. One friend told me that so many of the Sing hawkers now cook using propane, whereas they still find many hawkers using charcoal in Malaysia, which is what he prefers.

      I will give Singapore the edge when it comes to ease of getting to and fro - Singapore is like NYC, where KL is like LA. Singapore is so easy to get around, using the MRT and taxis, where KL is a crawling parking lot, where if you don't have wheels, you're screwed...

      1. re: bulavinaka

        Thanks. You're probably right on all counts. I've never had wheels in KL.

        1. re: Sam Fujisaka

          Sorry to hear that, but then again, all you do is get in your car, start it up and creep along... it's gotten really bad there... I think I could easily sacrifice a little variety for the convenience of Singapore - it's really clean too...

          1. re: bulavinaka

            And it's tought to walk, too, because they have possibly the worst designed streets ever -- even worse than San Francisco around Market. I imagine if you look at a street map it looks like a spirograph. There are no straight lines. But between the LRT and Monorail, it's not too bad.

            One great thing for Malaysia that I found very useful is the Star's Guide to street food in Malaysia. I think the Chinese to Malay ratio is a bit high for KL, but the maps are extremely useful and the recs were hits and matched up with Chowhound recs.

            1. re: extramsg

              That sounds like a great resource. Will have to keep the Star Guide in mind for the next time we visit... Because my wife is from KL by way of Malacca, we have our "resources" there already, which can be a blessing as well as a curse. We always go to the places that our relatives prefer to go to, which are good. But I feel this is kind of limiting since they have already staked out their preferences and may not be as open to try other places. Also, I'm lucky enough to have a mother-in-law who has a deft hand in the kitchen, so we often eat in, which is becoming more and more rare as the younger generations opt to use the kitchen to boil water for instant noodles...

              I've probably spent about almost two monthes of time over three visits there, and I still can't get my sense of direction for the most part. The last time we were there was is 1999, so it will be interesting to see what has changed in KL. I'm hoping that the govt has decided to lay off of the grand projects that were supposed to put them on the forefront of the world scene - the biggest this, the tallest that, the longest... if they had instead pumped all of that money into true infrastructure improvements, they would be going head-to-head with Singapore. But maybe that's the charm of KL - not so much a place to visit for tourism, but more of a place to live and enjoy great food.

    2. How about Luang Prabang? Peter Green has posted an interesting thread on eGullet complete with photos.

      3 Replies
      1. re: whs

        Right. But if time and $ are a concern, why not Vientiane--my fave.

        1. re: Sam Fujisaka

          I had thought about going into NE Thailand which I haven't visited and Laos. What's the food culture like in Vientiane? Why's it your fav?

          1. re: extramsg

            Lao and NE Thai (basically the same thing) are my favorite foods: laab with sticky rice and greens that include leaves from the forest, sausages, dried meats, lots of dishes made of the good (organ) parts, along with soups, noodles, green papaya salad, Lao style BBQ chicken, fruit. The diet is really clean and healthy. You can go to either NE Thailand or Laos. I would go to Vientiane.

      2. Being from Penang, I'll say Penang over Singapore. There is a serious hawker culture in Penang - I've known Singaporeans who fly in to Penang for the weekend for their hawker fix. I'm not sure what you mean by Malaysian - Malay, Chinese, Indian, Nonya? I would stick to Malay and Chinese in KL and do Indian (particularly banana-leaf places) and Nyonya in Penang. There's also a strong Indian Muslim population in Penang - their specialty is Nasi Kandar - some places are open 24 hours.

        1. First of all, Jakarta is perfectly safe (I live here). However, as much as I like living here, I would trade the food for Saigon's food any day of the week. Check out fares on regional carriers and it shouldn't be too expensive. I know JetstarAsia does the trip from Singapore very cheap. Maybe Bangkok Airways from Bangkok.

          2 Replies
          1. re: brianmh

            Is there a better place for food and culture in Indonesia?

            1. re: extramsg

              If you want broad exposure to Indonesian foods, Jakarta is the place.

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