Sunset Park Obscure Mexican
Anyone who does Sunset Park Mexican via guidebooks or even these boards is making a mistake. Always go for the emptiest, most dismal, unknown haunts. they're always best. The southerners (Oaxaca, Chiapas, etc) don't market themselves well and lack funds to really do up their places, but cook like a dream.
latest fave: el palenque. 57-09 5th avenue, 718-567-8503
57-09 5th ave.
Menu mostly the usual suspects (cow foot tostatdas intrigue, however). But all uncommonly well done, and friendly sincere staff.
No idea where they're from (again, the menu's very standard). But the dynamic of single daughter waitress and mom and pop in the kitchen makes for much more sincere food than the splashier spots.
My previous fave in this genre of bleak but soulful was Marazul Restaurant. 5804 5th ave. But it appears to be shuttered.
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Jim Leff
Feb 26, 2007 05:38 PM
Yeah, the waitress is great, as is the (humble) vibe. I had a cemita with milanesa of chicken, and it was real good, if not inspired. And chalupas with beef, which were eyebrow raisingly good. Chalupas are always a good order in soulful homey little humble mex places. Got something else, too, but can't remember.
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re: Jim Leff
I'd like to recommend tacos xochimilco, A newish spot around 44th (just next to matmaros). Huaraches and carnitas tacos are now my faves in the neighborhood. Not sure if the place is barren or dismal enough to meet this threads requirement, but it's certainly not the flashiest place on the block (despite its corner location and big windows).
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Saying that a Latino place plays ear blasting music is like saying a tiger has stripes - it seems to be part of the genetic make up. I was thinking about this over the weekend as I made my chow trek along 5th b/w about 45th and 60th Anyone have any theories on that?
I did manage to get to El Palanque, the place mentioned by Jim in the start of the thread. The place was neat and bright and warm and the one waitress seemed very friendly but since I know about 30 words of Spanish and she seemed to know a like number of English words, it could have been the breadth of the conversation didn't allow for anything other than niceties. I doubt it though as she continually checked in on me and was very attentive and always smiling.
I had pozole and two Barbacoa tacos. I wanted Lengua tacos but they were out. The were also out of tamales, so no shot of gauging how they handle one of my favorite treats. The pozole was nice and hot and very plentiful with lots of meat. I wouldn't say the broth was a flavorful as I tend to like - I guess 'understated' probably describes it best - but three lime chunks, some hot sauce and some adobo seasoning seemed to do the trick. The tacos were flavorful and very generous in the meat department but I think the goat was a little bit dried out. Very rich goat flavor though.
The shining star of the meal though was the coffee. Probably brewed on the stove as it came out of the kitchen window and was scalding hot, it was better than about 95% of the coffee I'm forced to drink in most cafes and 90% of the beans I grind myself from places like Gorilla and Fairway.
With all the other places to try on the strip I can't convincingly say yet that El Palanque stands out beyond the warmth of the service (I dont' know what Jim had food wise) but I'd be willing to give it another shot once I get some of the other places out of the way.
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re: spicynuts
Thanks for the recommendation, I went to El Palenque yesterday and had an amazing sopa de olla. My Mexican cookbook defines olla as "clay pot", and it ended up being a powerfully spicy, fatty red broth filled with vegetables, ears of corn, and wonderfully tender beef. It came with a generous plate of sautéed green onions which had an excellent natural sweetness.
The tostadas were fresh and very nice, and they have good horchata. The vibe is pretty much standard - loud jukebox, banal decor - but it seemed to be clean and friendly.
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I asked this before (which is why I went to La Fe on 5/55th) but where are the good Huaraches on this stretch of fifth? I also tried them at La Timplico (?) The name might be wrong but it's the restaurant right across from the big church. They play ear-blasting music. The huarache I had was pretty dull. I don't think the tortilla was home-made and it just had meat and cheese on it. Boring. Man, I can't wait for the Red Hook fields to open again.
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La Fe is pretty good. Basically a deli with food service in the back. The huraches were good (but not as good as the soccer fields) but at least they were homemade. They could be really good if they put more veggies and condiments on there. And if you want dingy--that's the place.
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re: pastoralia
Peter Cuce
Feb 23, 2007 09:31 AM
La Fe is the kind of place I wanted to like but instead found solidly mediocre. I probably wouldn't return after trying a large part of their menu with some other Chowhound friends this past summer.
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re: Peter Cuce
hmm, i've had two excellent meals (both meals were huaraches and pozole) there. just to be clear, it's the "la fe" on 5th near 55th; there are probably other places called "la fe" in bklyn. haven't tried any of the other smallish places on the south end of 5th though.
mexican in astoria will produce a gem soon, i predict.
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re: Peter Cuce
Agreed- Went to both La Fe and el palenque. Found La Fe to be mediocre and El Palenque to be awful.
The Soup / Stew at El Palenque was nothing more that boiled water. The beans were extremely watery and everything else lacked even the most basic seasonings. Had a few dishes between two people and can honestly say it might be the worst food I have ever had in either Sunset Park or Jackson Heights (sorry Jim)
After leaving paying and leaving half the food we went to La Fe and had a better although mediocre meal. WIll possibly try La Fe again after working through the rest of the street.
La Fe was ok....would try this
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Peter Cuce
Feb 22, 2007 07:38 AM
Jim, thanks for the tip. However, I've been to quite a few of those dismal, unknown haunts and haven''t struck gold or even fool's gold, but instead merely unmemorable or downright bad meals.
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re: Peter Cuce
Jim Leff
Feb 22, 2007 09:39 AM
Peter, keep trying. They're out there. You'll find them. I promise. And bear in mind I'm talking a certain kind of "dismal". Not truly dismal, just lacking customers and money for the trappings to pull customers in. Sincere, optimistic people who can't quite get their marketing and image together.
Spicynuts, try it ALL, one meal at a time. Work through it. Draw your own conclusions. And post results! It's more fun this way, believe me. Show me chow and I eat for a day. Teach me to chowhound and I eat for a lifetime.
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I am currently house sitting for a friend at 51st and 5th and in the process of walking their dog this morning saw a bunch of such places that I want to try. There is also a taco cart at the corner of 51st and 5th that I'm curious about. Anyone have any experience? What about the Tacos Nuevos Mexicos on 5th around 47th? Is it as good as the one on 15th?
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re: spicynuts
wleatherette
Feb 23, 2007 07:02 AM
try to visit el tesoro while you're in the neighborhood. it's ecuadorian, not mexican, but we had such a great meal there a few months ago that i feel compelled to recommend it. the baby pig was excellent, with a generous amount of crackling, and so was the seafood rice. a friend went a few days after we did and said that the seafood casserole was outstanding. very reasonable prices, as well. i'm not in that area very often, unfortunately, or i'd be there every week.
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Jim Leff
Feb 22, 2007 07:01 AM
BTW, what attracted me to el palenque was that in this barebones place, the flower vases on the tables matched the tablecloths in a way that showed real care was taken.
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re: Jim Leff
I guess it depends on what you're looking for in a Sunset Park experience. A charming daughter and tablecloths? Leff would steer you to Palenque. Tacos? I'd suggest Matamoros, 5th and 45th, with excellent cabeza and carnitas, now across the street from Xochimilco. Tortas? Panaderia La Flor 5th b/w 40/41 - open 24 hours, killer bread, very good bistek con cebolla asada, plus nice gorditas. The latest in musica romantica at a healthy volume? Any place will do.
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