Habitat - Review
- Fwagra Feb 18, 2007 05:10 PM
We were 5 at Habitat on Friday night. This place is a resto-lounge, which seems to be a popular format these days. Filled with wannabes and posers, the room is filled with the unrelenting sound of pumped-in hipster rhythms. The people are what one might call "wannasoeurs". They don't really know quality, but they fancy themselves to be in the know when it comes to food.
The wine list featured some rather expensive but young wines. We ordered a bottle of wine, and requested that it be decanted well in advance. The waitress' response? "I'll see if we have a decanter." Ummm... that would be a good idea, considering your wine list is replete with 2005 Rhones and Barolos. They're way too young to be drunk even with decanting, but the hipster 20-something crowd won't know that, right?
Cocktails were decent, but underpoured. My first arrived, looking like someone had already drunk 25% of it. I ordered the same drink later, and it appeared to be a full one. An amateur is tending bar as usual.
The food was, at best, decent. Nothing more.
My appetizer was described on the menu as "Hakka style pork". What arrived was a huge mass of fat, marbled with precious little meat, sitting below a slaw of some sort, atop a dark soyish sauce. I had to send it back, even being a lover of fats of all kinds. It was pork belly. This was 85% fat. Too much, even by Asian or Filipino standards. The server apologized, and acknowledged that the dish was new and "on trial", so to speak. Fair enough. It's not a dish that they should add to the permanent repertoire. But, they happily brought me another appetizer, and the pork fat did not show up on the bill. The resto deserves credit for that; a good service move on their part.
My main was a filet mignon, with oyster mushrooms and a rosti potato. I would have rather ordered something more interesting, but of the 6 mains on offer, very little appealed for one who wanted to drink red wine for the night. The beef was good, and done medium rare as asked. The oyster mushrooms were two slivers in all, but quite tasty. They should put 10 times more on the plate. The rosti was too small, but good. The dish was out of proportion because the rosti and mushrooms were miniscule. But, the dish was decent food for sure.
As the night progressed, the obnoxious music became louder. I suppose I am a bit of old fart. But, I love music. Just not loud, semi-hip, Buddha Bar, BS music.
Like a lot of resto-lounges, this place is not serious cuisine at all. It is a bar with good food. I should not be surpised that it paled to my recent meal at Perigee, which is truly a gem with impeccable service and utterly brilliant cuisine, served unpretentiously and often by the chef himself. Quite a study in contrasts, these two restaurants.
Although one is better than the other by far, life is good when you spend time comparing Habitat to Perigee. I enjoyed both. But, if you really like food without hipster trappings and attitude, don't bother with the amateurish Habitat which seems like it learned everything from a few hours of Food Network Canada. Go to Perigee.
You and the restaurant had bad luck with timing. Their old chef has left (with his somellier, I think) and the new chef began just two weeks ago. Here's hoping, though, that it gets better than what you've described.
I can attest to the "bad timing" comment. I visited Habitat at the end of December and the meal was stellar. The food definitely surpassed my average expectations going in, most notably the kaseiki dishes (we ordered 7) and the lamb.
Ditto with teameater. I ate there in Dec before Scott Woods left and it was excellent. Hopefully, the new folks will get settled in and regain some of Habitat's former glory.