Here's My Paris List WDYT?
Starting next Thursday with a night in Chablis visiting friends. Then the following :
Friday : Dominique - Bouchet 8th ( awaiting confirmation)
Saturday : Le Ferrandaise 6th
Sunday: Le Timgad 17th
Monday: Chez Gabrielle 7th
Tuesday: Ze Kitchen Galerie 6th
Wednesday: L'Os a Moelle 15th
Thursday:Cave Lanzerac 17th
Friday: Hiramatsu 16th
We have rented an apartment in 6th for the week and have made many visits to Paris in past . We have enjoyed everything from Au Petite Tonneau to Au Bon Accueil to Lucas Carton ( alas when it was ) We have not experienced any of the restaurants on this list. Any comments welcomed Merci
I'm sorry you didn't have a good experience at La Ferrandaise. Here's what we ate when we were there: for our entrees, an interesting and very good lentil cream soup with a piece of pied du cochon in it that really heightened the taste and texture, and the crab ravioli. I agree the latter was strong in taste, but I actually loved it because, to me, the broth burst with "seafoodiness" rather than tasting fishy, and the ravioli were fresh, soft and a good accompaniment. For plats, the steak was beautifully done and tasty if a bit tough (because of the cut); the braised lamb on a bed of lentils was, however, meltingly tender and delicious. For desserts, the creme brulee and millefieulle were correctly executed and extremely good.
Overall, it was a very good meal with prompt, friendly, professional service and good ambience. It was also good value for money! I hope they will improve on those dishes and issues that might have been missteps, and that other Chowhounders will report on their own experiences!
We are back and still full. 10 days of total decadence ..a couple of clunkers but all in all wonderful. Arrived 7am and drove to Chablis to visit friends. We hadn’t slept on overnite flight from Boston and were tired and hungry by noon . After checking into Hostellerie des Clos we wandered thru town and stopped at the new bistro owned by the same chef as Hostellerie, restaurateur Michel Vignaud. Very pleasant . We had simple salads with cheese and walnuts as starters ( clean and refreshing) and DH had fish stew which was in a Chablis ( what else ?) cream sauce . I had similar stew of chicken . Both stews had ample fowl/fish and carrots and potatoes. And the distinctive Chablis cream sauce .We shared a very nice bottle of Chablis ( 2000 Vallion Fevre) and were set for an afternoon nap. We had reservations at the main resto that nite and were ready for a late dinner . We have dined here in the past and it was a very fond memory. We started with terrine of foie for me ( smooth, perfect and buttery) and salmon cake for DH about which he raved. We ordered the duck for 2 and to complement it we ordered a special bottle ( they all are ) of Vosne Romanee. When plats arrived we were quite surprised ( disappointed ) to be served chicken in Chablis cream sauce..in fact a very similar dish to what I had for lunch. The waiter said “ ah my fault” but did not offer to replace with correct order although he did ask if we still wanted the Vosne ( who would order that with chicken in cream sauce ???) How can “ duck” sound like chicken ?? Anyhow in retrospect we should have declined the plat and gone straight for the cheese which was in fact wonderful. Blame jet lag or not wanting to make a fuss but we sucked it up tho without any joy..and yes were fully charged for the course. On to Paris the next day. Our first dinner was at Dominique – Bouchet and what a meal it was ..we ordered the tasting . And a wise choice.. In brief chestnut soup with cocoa and truffles, veal tete( yes I know ) but it was exquisite with a bit of Roquefort salad, a perfect scallop with salsify and herb juices , artichokes braised and served with baby vegetables and shaved parmesan, diced mussels in a light creamy saffron sauce , roasted bar in lobster bouillon , lamb served in a perfect red wine sauce , and pineapple crème brulee ( as it should be made ) We shared a bottle of Condrieu for the first several courses and a glass of wonderful Burgundy with the lamb …such a grand meal perfectly paced and served . A simple and elegant room and for 90 Euros pp plus wine I thought a steal . Friday night was La Ferrandaise ( and I find it curious that the previous 2 posters singled out places where we had less than stellar experiences) La Ferrandaise was one of those.. they were having a problem with their electricity so I wouldn’t suggest anyone rely on our experience ..the lights completely went out 3 times in the first hour and I was able to see into the kitchen that was operating by candlelight..anyhow they were also short staffed with a runner and one waitperson and we think the runner was definitely in training . DH ordered the beef terrine which looked like an uninspired piece of meatloaf and when I tasted was totally bland ( meatloaf desperately in need of Heinz Ketchup..eww ) and I ordered the crab ravioli which was so fishy I ate one partially and declined the rest. DH had a beef tenderloin that he felt was okay I had breast of veal that was scrumptious served on a plate of delicious potatoes in a veal and red wine sauce ( you can always win me back with a plate of potatoes) Anyhow it was a bad nite for them and not so good for us ..We had a bottle of Fixin that was quite nice and total was 117 Euros …Sunday ( always a challenge ) allowed us to experiment with our first real foray into Moroccan. We dined at La Timgad and think it quite good if more than a bit formulaic ..lots of small tastes of marinated veggies and nuts on the table as a welcome . To keep it short we both had cous cous with chicken and a rose wine.. a fine meal not terribly memorable compared to Dominique and some things to come But perfectly satisfying for a Sunday evening departure from French . Monday At this point it dawned on me that when we enlisted the concierge that was a benefit of our apartment rental and told them that our price point was 90 Euros they assumed that was for 2 people and we meant per person ( it was a major anniversary trip) So we were somewhat suspicious of the remaining reservations that they had made ( the had done Ferrandaise ) so we cancelled them and went on our own . For Monday nite we secured a table at Café Moderne about which I was not thrilled . As it turned out we walked all day and found ourselves at the Bourse about the time of the reservation ( 830pm) so in we went . A good move . Very simple room and very solid food . For the life of me I can’t remember all that we had but suffice to say it would be a neighborhood fav if I lived around there .
Tuesday Ze Kitchen Galerie I had read so much pro and con that I was a bit trepidatous to go . It was a 2 minute walk from our apartment on Rue Dauphine and by the end of the meal I wanted to live in the kitchen . Starters were Octopus and eel salad for DH and I had tuna ( I think , the week gets fuzzy here) For plats I had the duck ( finally got that duck) that was grilled and served with Thai spices and just so perfect and DH had lacquered mackerel. Not my choice but again he raved . Desserts are worthy of a strong mention here .Innovative and very very good. I had the corn soup with glazed rice crispies Can’t explain You gotta be there. Anyhow we loved the room, the service was friendly and professional and we decided to make a repeat trip ( later on that ). Wednesday was the long awaited La Os a Moelle …a relatively long cab ride but I was sure that we would be well rewarded….not us …a bad night .They apparently had multiple staff sick calls . The room was chock full of patrons and there were again 2 waitstaff ,…. a runner and a waitperson. We had 3 courses all of which were delicious But we were there for 90 minutes and hadn’t gotten past the amuse , soup and starter ..and we had finished a bottle of wine and feared for our ability to give a cab driver our return address. So we paid our tab in full being very polite and feeling very bad for patrons and staff alike and went across the street to the Cave where we enjoyed a sidewalk table ( the weather was grand ) and cheese . We would give it another try..We also suspect there was some conspiracy ongoing as it was school vacation week in Paris and perhaps people who work in restos like to spend time with their Kids on vaca so okay…they call in sick . Thursday. Return trip to Ze Kitchen . Once again great service and food I started with a special of Thai Lobster soup and had chicken ( to balance the infamous duck) Flavors were crisp and memorable and I think if we lived in the neighborhood it would be a once a month must.. the Thai flavors I suspect can get on you but as a treat it is terrific .Before our final blow out anniversary dinner I should mention that we had various and sundry lunches , light lunch at Au Petit Tonneau and Madame Ginny still does great eggs and has her way with veal, a rainy run in to get dry with a bowl of onion soup for me and oysters for DH at Vaudeville and we stumbled on Gaya which was EMPTY and had sole meuniere to die for .. yes I am back on double Lipitor and thinking about AA as we had a bottle of something wonderful ( much Condrieu ) with every meal ..and being in an apartment we had the benefit of the local fromagerie and boulangerie and we took advantage of it ..One fast fact ..one of the nites before dinner DH announced that he would like to go to a bar for a cocktail…I ( spoiled child ) said “Okay we can go to the Plaza Athanee or the Ritz or Hotel Raphael “…his response was “ No I mean a real Paris Bar !! “ so I responded “ Find one” and he did …the FOO Bar on Rue Variguard . A hole in the wall , dark , smokey and full of junk memorabilia and bikers with their helmets on the bar ( and we were dressed to the Nines ) .. We each had a Sidecar ( which itself was a challenge in translation) and had I had 2 I would have gone directly to bed and not passed Go ..a worthwhile experience and a lot of fun . Bartender and patrons couldn’t have been nicer to Yanks Well our last night and we had reserved our anniversary dinner at Hiramatsu. A study in perfection. The room is elegant and sparse but what is there is worth looking at and enjoying . Well spaced tables, white linens , blue or red glassware adds accent to an other wise quiet landscape .. some lovely accents all of which are fine Baccarat ..and not, I repeat Not, pretentious atmosphere .. We had the tasting. I have posted here before about a wonderful meal that we had at La Pergolese in the 16th that was until this meal my best memory…Hiramatsu gave it more than a run for its Euros . The tasting was amazing . What I can reconstruct is a pumpkin soup with truffle, a large portion of lobster in a delicious sauce served cold , a perfect scallop , a roasted bar, saddle of venison, and dessert , dessert , dessert . My description does not do it justice as I was not taking notes or thinking about a post .. but rather enjoying the pure pleasure of the night . It was here that we had our most delicious Condrieu and also the most relaxing and savory night of our decadent trip . I apologize for the laspses in memory…they are all due to pure culinary joy… If I remember more I will post. Bonne Nuit
I have been to Dominique Bouchet, Ze Kitchen Galerie and L'Os a Moelle. All are wonderful choices, but for me, the do not miss place is L'Os a Moelle--great with innovative food, a lovely wine list and excellent value for money. Across the street is the Cave a L'Os a Moelle another wonderful place to eat. Ze Kitchen Galerie is a favourite, although sometimes I hear the service is a little haughty (something, I have not experienced). It is a favourite of John Talbot, over at eGullet. Dominique Bouchet is more upscale and is a restaurant not a bistro. Delicious food is served by another well trained chef.
You might add to your list the innovative and delightful one star, Chez Jean. It is run by former Taillevant people and the food and wine and service are wonderful.
Capeanne, what did you think of La Ferrandaise? We went in mid-February and definitely preferred it to our other dinner choice the second night, La Petit Pontoise. We found La Ferrandaise to be a warm, intimate and relaxing place; small and filled with friendly Parisians. The food was excellent - fresh ingredients skilfully executed and absolutely spot-on delicious - with a well-thought out menu and good service. We'd love to go back on our next visit to Paris!
Yes that is our destination for the first evening Ate there a couple of years back and it was unforgettable Confession: the majority of the Paris restos booked are recs from the concierge service associated with the apartment rental so I am hopeful we will discover a few new hidden gems !!