L'explorateur in Indianapolis
After reading the good reviews of L'exploratuer in several Indianapolis Monthly editions, my husband and I decided to try it. We left rather disappointed; in fact, we turned down dessert to go finish the evening with drinks and dessert elsewhere.
We had 6:30 reservations on a Saturday night. The place felt deserted. The restaurant is in a former residential home, and is broken up into several smaller room, perhaps explainig why it felt completely emtpy. In retrospect, peraps I should have been concerned about the lack of customers.
For starters, we had the duck confit on goat cheese, which was the highlight of the meal, and the trio of soup. The presentation was nice, but not spectacular. The soup was presented in a bulls-eye fasion with a bisque-like outer ring that was good (not great). The middle ring was a carrot puree and tasted exactly like my daughter's babyfood - totally bland and uninspired. The center ring was a purree of green lentils and was good but still not worthy of ordering again.
For main course, my husband had the bass. It was cooked perfectly and tasted very good; yet was not spectacular. We've had better fish a multiple restaurants in Indy. I had the scallops. Huge dissapointment. First complaint is that there were three medium sized scallops with some sauce...nothing else, no hint of a side, no vegetable, not even a micro-greeen.......nothing. The sauce tasted heavy of molasses and was unappealing. The scallops were topped with pop-rocks, yes, the candy pop-rocks. Here, I appreciated the invetiveness and even enjoyed the surprising first couple of bites. But, after just a couple of bites, the pop-rocks became a huge annoyance. They continued to pop ong-after the bite was gone. This also ruined the glass of wine (short pour, by the way). Even after trying to scape off all the pop-rocks, the scallops were permeated with a very odd, orange flavor reminesent of the candy. For $30, I expect for than 3 scallops, a partial bag of cheap candy, and a couple tablespoons of unappealing sauce.
Compared to the other fine chefs and restaurants in Indy, we felt that L'explorateur fell far short. I would recommend Oakleys, Elements and R Bistro well before L'explorateur. I don't give this place much more than 6 months.....it will be doomed just like all those that have failed at its same location.
I have no stake in L'Explorateur, but I'm sorry that you didn't enjoy your experience. We've been there only once, but it was excellent. We didn't order off the menu, instead asking the chef to prepare food until we said "stop." There were three of us, and we had probably six or seven courses. Several of them were from the menu, but most were not. They were uniformly fresh, literally and figuratively. I've heard similar reports from others who have been there.
I don't doubt that your experience was sub-standard, and I'm glad you reported it. If I had had your experience, I probably would never go back. I didn't, and I will.
I'd like to chime in as well-I've only eaten at L'Explorateur once, last summer-I've copied my review at the time below:
"We had a great dinner back in Indianapolis at L’explorateur. It’s in a house up in Broad Ripple (in Hanslit’s old spot)-the neighborhood was pretty wild on a Friday night, but the restaurant attracts a very different group than the drinking sorts at other area spots.) This is a very serious place. The raw selections are very fine-hamachi with little fish-egg horseradish (calling F. Adria), salmon and tuna crudo, Spanish Remjon yellowfin/tail. Wonderful, fresh, perfect (a warning for the clumsy-they serve it with chopsticks.)
The Basque Ttorro with mussels was marvelous, laced with saffron and with a broth that made me ask for a spoon. The trout with corn gnocchi was full of flavor. The black and white and red all over (I’m giving away the game-sorry) was three large scallops, each with a different preparation-my favorite was a squid-ink noodle. Desserts included a peach soup, a vanilla panna cotta and a chocolate thingy (well, a bottle of wine and dessert wine-what do you want?) A note-they don’t serve any sort of bread, which makes some sense with the Japanese-inspired food, but less so with the Spanish food. They also don’t serve espresso, but have a good presspot. I would highly recommend this spot-the best I’ve had in Indianapolis."
I must give a huge kudos to L'explorateur. Several weeks after my original post regarding the disappointing dinner, I received a phone call from L'explorateur. Getting my contact information took several steps of investigative work (likely cross-referencing chowhound with open table and a bit of luck) piecing the details together to identify me and my contact information.
In brief, the phone call was not to dispute or explain-away our sub-par experience. Instead, it was meant to intice us to return - to give it another chance. To proclaim their desire to be one of the top Indy restaurants. Initially, I had no desire to re-visit. On second thought howerer, I realized that in a town full of chains and in desperate need of high quality, innovative cuisine, we had to give them another chance. Clearly, the efforts of L'expolrateur indicate their strength of dedication. I admire this to no end and therefore, are giving them another chance. We have reservations for this weekend and hope to report back a very diiferent review than that of our first visit.
As promised, here's the review of our second visit to L'exploratuer.
The short version is that it was 100% different experience.
The long version is this:
Again early evening reservations. This time, we were seated in the bar area and it proved to be a great spot. I'll always ask for this location when returning. By sitting in the bar area, we are able to watch the chef as he prepared dishes using ingredients from the raw bar. He was in and out of the area all night. It was great to see patrons stop by to talk with him and compliment him on their meal. Additionally, we were able to observe the interaction with his staff. The environment isn't malignant; everyone there seemed happy to be so.
After ordering a glass of wine, we simply instructed our server that we would leave our meal to the discretion of the Chef. Great move on our part. We started with the Hamachi Carpaccio. By report, this is the only item that can't be removed from the menu...it's always in too great of demand. We agree. Perfect flavors of the hamachi, chili oil, crunchy roe, and freshly grated horseradish. Makes my mouth water just thinking about it.
Next came a dish not listed on the menu. Called "a study in salt," were numerous thin slices of tuna and salmon. Not thick nigiri style, but beautiful thin slices. Each was topped with something salty. One with bits of kalamata olives, one with capers, thin red onion and a lovely bit of sauce, another with caviar, another quite simply with a sea salt. They were all quite good and so different from each other.
A nice lettuce salad was next. It had fennel (not too much), pears (maybe not quite enough?) and fabulous candied nuts. The dressing was light yet flavorful. This salad paired very well the previous two dishes yet also helped transition to the next course.
We were then presented with a good-looking dark green soup with a contrasting portion of Opakapaka resting in the center on top of a hidden piece of toasted brioche. Excellent. I've never had this fish before, but it reminded me of great mahi-mahi in Hawaii. The soup, puree of Jerusalem artichoke, was so incredibly flavorful. It was like eating the artichoke without all the work.
Main courses were apparently chosen based on the wines we had previously ordered (Pinot Noir and a Cab). My husband had duck with a tasty pepper au jus. The duck was perfectly cooked - not at all overdone. It had a nice crusty skin. Luckily I managed to get a slice prior to my husband gobbled it all up. My main course was an enormous pork chop. I am not typically a fan or pork, but this was really very good. Moist and flavorful with an amazing crunchy outer texture. I can say that I've never had pork this good. The best part was the red wine risotto and sautéed shitakes. Again, the risotto was the best I've had with a perfect bite and flavors.
Finally, we ended with a lovely drinking chocolate and a nice rhubarb and strawberry cobbler served in an individual soufflé dish.
To chef's credit, we were completely satisfied, but not uncomfortably stuffed. Also to his credit, we spoke briefly about our previous experience and his goals for the restaurant. It comes down to this: we will go back. We will always let the chef guide us thru a meal only specifying the number of courses desired. I am impressed by his drive to make his restaurant succeed and I think that while there are still a few wrinkles to iron out, you must give him a ton of credit. It's an enormous challenge to change your menu every 2 weeks. When you do that, sometimes you'll miss the mark, but as a customer it's great to be challenged to try something new.
Thanks so much for the report!
I honestly believe that anyplace (even the very best) can occasionally have a problem. It's all the more impressive when they realize it and do everything they can to make it right for those affected.
Your report could not have been more timely, as I will be at L'ex the day after tomorrow. I've already checked out the menu on their website and everything sounds superb. I'll report when I'm back early next week.