Dara takes on Little Szechuan - MSP [Moved from Midwest]
And the news is good.
Well, we didn't need to wait for Dara to tell us Little Szechuan is good. ;-) But, still, she has a great chowsense, so it's good to have it reaffirmed.
I like her tip about weekend lunches being especially great--that's something we hadn't hit on ourselves. Maybe that's her subtle way of steering us away from the busy weekend nights with the too-thin service.
Someone (can't remember who, sorry) on the Midwest board said that Dara didn't mention the ongoingly and painfully sloooooooowwwwww service (nor did she mention their erratic sometimes open, sometimes closed for business, we can never know for sure hours), but, I've noticed that Dara often takes a conveniently blind eye (or at least views through softening lenses, anyway) to crap service, especially for ethnic eateries where she likes the food. While I imagine she's just doing her best to pump these places up because she wants them to succeed, frankly, I don't think she does the restaurants any favors by avoiding mentioning the negatives. First, it damages her credibility. Second: so much in life is about expectations--if you're planning ahead for lousy service, and you give yourself a little extra time, don't go when you're famished and must eat NOW, then you're more likely to have a pleasant experience than you would if the poor service caught you off guard.
And what's this about a full wine list? They only have reds. I realize serious wine drinkers are supposed to like only reds, but I like a nice chilled, white to cool the fire.
Also, minor quibble, but I wished she could have told us a bit more about who are the folks behind Little Szechuan--where they came from, what their backgrounds are, etc. This is the type of info that a food critic can gain access to more easily than the average consumer and it would be nice to know.
Here's hoping that the extra business the City Pages article brings to Little Szechuan forces them to get smarter about the service--hire more servers, hire some bus-persons, get dishes moving out of the kitchen faster, whatever the issue is...