Venice - after Carnival - what's open
We will be in Venice for 3 nights directly after Carnival. I've been there in Sept so am looking forward to seeing a different side of Venice. Staying in Castello Ovest near Fondamente Nuove but have heard some restaurants may be closed? We want good food but not extravagant meals.
Its possible - usually restaurants in Venice take a long winter holiday between Christmas and Carnival -. Unless they want to take a rest for a few days after, Id figure their vacation time is over by then. You will definitely find some place to eat and there are some good ones near where you are staying, including Alla Frasca. If you are going to be in Venice for more than a few days its worth finding a copy of MIchele Scibilia's Venice Eateries - as Ive mentioned before the book vendor in the plaza behind the Miracoli usually has it.
just got back from Venice BEFORE carnival. A few restaurants were closed but they all had signs on their doors stating that they'd be open early Feb, so I cant imagine you'd have too much trouble. And just for the info , our best meal was at Trattoria della Marisa, where it was 'meat' night (sometimes its fish night - you find oiut when you ring to book.) You go in sit down, theres little English, and they just bring you food. No ordering, no menu's...just the mama's out the back cooking up a storm. So simple and so delicious. I cant remember the street but it was close to the train station,fontamente Giobbe, along a canal (funnily enough) Also went to Osteria Ca D'oro which was a little disappointing, though the place was buzzing so maybe we just didnt order well...having said that my friends squid in ink was fabulous.
Enjoy. I also recommend the Michelle Scibilia book...I got mine at the bookstore along the sestier cannarregio a couple of blocks near the station...in the travel section - not the english section.
re: jen kalb
I am not surprised! there were only 4 tables in the room. One large Italian family of several generations at a big table, one couple, a 4 and us at 6 and even then it was cramped!! We had an italian lady in our group who rang to book.
We started with two pasta dishes. A lovely lasagne with truffle and porcini mushrooms light but rich too, and a ground pork in tomato sauce and tagliatelli. Both perfectly executed. Next came some more sauteed mushrooms, a smokey baked artichokes, polenta and beef in wine braised, all washed down with several carafes of local red housewine. To finish we had a superb marscapone cream served in bowls with small spoons and biscuits to dunk and Vinsanto. The marscapone cream and lasagne were the highlights for me. The room was boisterous and lively and we ate and drank and talked til we'd had enough!!
I was in Venice 2006 the weekend after Carnival, and then a week. My hotel charged a higher rate FR and SA nights, and then went down to its winter rate. Most restaurants were indeed open; some don't open until March/Easter/warm weather.
-- Sid Cundiff