Memorable meals have you had at Fondas/Comedors/Mercados Mexico-wide?
- kare_raisu Feb 5, 2007 08:12 AM
I am interested in the typical guisados or comidas corridas available at such locales and just food in general available at these sort of venues. Kind regards and many thanks.
I've had a hard time answering this one, as many of the meals we've had at the abovementioned places are just everyday, pretty good, satisfying, but nothing special sort of food.
Having said that, I do recall some good breakfasts, for example, at the Fonda "Lupita" (to name just one fonda of several) at the Mercado Hidalgo in Guanajuato. Similarly, rich breakfasts at a fonda whose name I don't recall, in the Mercado de 11 Noviembre, in Oaxaca. This is just lusty, tasty working class food.
On Saturday, we breakfasted on birria or sopa de cabeza, in the Mercado de Antojitos in Pátzcuaro. It's just a bowl of meat in a zingy chile caldo. You can choose regular of lengua.
That afternoon, in Tangancícuaro, Michoacán, we lunched on a less "earthy" birria, which resembled sliced pot roast in a mild tomato gravy. It would have been boring but for the excellent garnishes and salsas on the table.
Photos here: http://picasaweb.google.com/doncuevas...
and attached below.
I'm surprised that you haven't had more responses. I do remember the street food in Oaxaca as being particularly good. There were a couple of places near our B&B that had great food. I'm drawing a blank on what it's called, but there were these huge crispy tortillas with toppings - I believe they are a Oaxacan specialty. Absolutely delicious.
That Oaxacan specialty--the big crisp tortilla--is a tlayuda.
Here's a list of fondas and street stands that I love:
--Don Juan's corundas, with crema and salsa de chile perón
--Enchiladas placeras at the stand nearest the western portales on the small plaza
--Atole de grano in front of the Gran Hotel
--the taco guy on the corner of the small plaza
--those tacos dorados de mole con pollo
In Mexico City:
--Roast turkey legs at the rosticería at Metro General Anaya
--Blue corn quesadillas on the Zócalo
--Churros and chocolate in Coyoacán
--Cafe El Jarocho, ditto
--That carnitas place that shall remain nameless
--Torta Loca at Mercado San Juan de Dios
--Coctel de Camarón estilo Chayo, at the tianguis where I shop
--Tacos al Pastor Los Alteños
--Taco Fish La Paz
At Lake Chapala:
--Tacos Doña Mago
--Tacos El Compadre
--Tacos El Güero, Bulevar Aguascalientes
--Tacos de pescado at any street stand
--Gorditas Doña Julia
Memorable meals at comedors in Mexico? You can write a book on that. (Actually, someone has, called A Cook's Tour of Mexico, focusing on market food.) My wife and I are just back from a month of grazing at the markets and restos in Mexico, and I kept an online food journal for my newspaper in Montreal. A few ideas, if I'm not too late weighing in ... in Guadalajara, at the Mercado Libertad, a fonda called Birrieria Guadalajara.... About an hour's drive north of Puerto Vallarta, in a town called La Penita, we sampled a phenomenal BBQ chicken cooked over wood logs by a guy named Luis Erasmo, at a cart at the corner of Highway 200 and the main street in La Penita .... In Puerto Vallarta, in the more laid-back south end of town below the river, we had great ceviche and fish tacos at a place called Calamar Aventurero... In Morelia, at the Mercado Independencia, we had wonderful soups, chicken and res, at a fonda that had two women's names in it, one of them Mariana, I think. I've got more at
Yesterday, we broke with our habit of having our main meal at 2 PM, in order to join two new arrivals to the Pátzcuaro expat community. We met at Restaurante El Camino Real, which is the well-regarded roadside restaurant behind the Pemex gas station at Tzurumútaro, just east of Pátzcuaro.
At 6 PM the place was quite busy. The fact that the floor seemed to have not been swept for some hours was only mildly distracting. I chose to think of it as proof of the popularity of the restaurant, so I kicked the few scattered spent lime halves and discarded napkins aside and the waiter sat the 6 of us at a table covered with a fresh tablecloth. We were missing a few glasses and utensils, but our request to our very professional waiter was quickly fulfilled.
When we got the menus, I was pleasantly surprised to find that the Menú del Día was still being offered. A few items were 86'd, indicated by being crossed out, but a lot of choices remained. This menú del día is a remarkable bargain, which on this Sunday was priced at $55 MXP, including sopa aguada, sopa seca, guisado, and postre. Beverages were extra. We asked for the agua fresca de jamaica and between us drank two jarras.
There were a few things on the menu that were new to me. Among the soups were Consomé de fideos con pollo, consomé de pollo con verduras (recommended), and this one, new to me: Olla Podrida, which, of course, I ordered. There was Sopa Tarasca, of course, but my previous experience with this overrated soup leads me to not recommend it.
The Olla Podrida was a sort of "empty the fridge soup", with bits of beef, ham, poultry and vegetables in a slightly thickened tomato soup marked by a good hit of vinegar and a spike of chile. It was surprisingly, quite good and reminded me of some of the soups I've concocted from leftovers, but I wouldn't go out of my way to have it again.
For the second course, "Sopa Seca", many chose Arroz a la Mexicana, standard fare but good, but as they had Crepas de Elote last night, several of us tried them. we each got one smallish stuffed crepe, which was enough, coverd in a fairly rich cheese sauce.
On to the platos fuertes or guisados: as the famed Conejo al Ajillo was offered, 3 of our group ordered it, but one of the newcomers either mispronounced "conejo" when ordering, or else the waiter just misunderstood her, so she was brought a plate of "Cordero", which I kiddingly told her was Mexican Osso Bucco. It was really a spicy pot roast and she seemed to enjoy it.
My wife, the lovely Sra. Anónima, saw that there was a vegetarian option last night, "Tortitas de Raíz de Chayote en Salsa" so she ordered it. It was impressive: two thick slices of raíz de chayote in a thickish chile sauce. I tasted it and enjoyed it.
For various reasons, I was in a "creamy cheesy not much chiles mood", so I had Enchiladas Suizas; two baked enchiladas de pollo bathed in cream and cheese and absolutely delicious. I did put a little salsa verde on them from the bowl on the table.
The meal ended with those tiny but sufficient cups of dessert: this time, it was quite good, dark chocolate ice cream. As we finished up and were getting the check at about 7:30, the restaurant was emptying and we good see the staff was starting to clean up and close.
Photos from previous visits:
Wonderful description and photos. Thank you. Never even heard of, seen, nor tasted it before, but I'm going to make some ceviche de hongos tonight.