36447 Fri May 20 03:39:58 -0700 2005 18 1 San Francisco Bay Area 0 168224 Uber long Who knew I’d be crazy about Michael Mina? The concept sounds so silly and precious. This was the most fun I have had at a restaurant in a long time. It was the perfect balance of entertaining, creative presentation, casual sophistication and, most important, tasty chow. A quick aside. The little lounge in the lobby of the St. Francis, at the foot of the stairs to the restaurant (whew), serves small plates and desserts from Michael Mina. Go to the lounge and order the Banana Tart Tatin. This is the best banana dessert I have ever had in my life. They have about a dozen small plates like the lobster corn dogs and black truffle popcorn (an homage to carnivals?). Ok, I need to stop making fun of the concept, because the reality is fun and interesting … in a good way … in a delicious way. They offer a three course prix fixe menu ($88) or a nine course tasting menu ($120). Pairing wine with the tasting menu is $75. A vegetarian tasting menu is available upon request. I THINK you can also order a few classic MM dishes a la carte, like the lobster pot pie. I was focusing on the tasting menus. I did see someone have the normal sized version of the lobster dish. For the three course menu, there is a page of appetizers and a page of entrees. They are a mixture of seasonal dishes and MM classic dishes. These menus have all those three way presentations. For the nine course tasting menu, you have a choice of two pre-printed menus, one seasonal and one with Michael’s classics. I’ll put the classic menu at the end since I have it and MM doesn’t have a website with the menu. Scroll WAY down to see it. Those three course dishes are just stunning. MM is way ahead of the pack in presentation. The green salad three ways looked amazing. The people at the table next to mine seemed very happy with it. So here’s the tasting menu I had. Again no wine notes, since that isn’t my thing. The wines were very well paired with the food. There were two standouts. The wine at Michael Mina was very, very good. The wine at the Ritz was on another level, in a class by itself. Seasonal Tasting menu Many dishes came with two presentations. Amuse buche: A day boat scallop on a potato pancake on a pool of sauce that was the best tarter sauce I’ve tasted. The scallop was topped with crème fraiche and caviar. In the bowl next to it was a thin slice of scallop cerviche topped with caviar. Bread: MM wins the bread contest. MUCH better than the Ritz. Lovely warm crusty sourdough rolls served with sweet butter. Hamachi Parfait Crispy Rice Cake, sea urchin vinaigrette. This looked like a piece of sushi roll sitting on an orange pool of yuzu. That crispy rice on the outside is indescribable because it sounds awful, but it worked so well. The hamachi was topped with wasabi tobiko (these lovely caviar type of eggs that just popped in your mouth in the most delightful way). The dab of sea urchin had a deep fresh taste of the sea. The wine that paired with this dish was outstanding. On it’s own it had a diesel like smell (bear with me, I’m in the middle of a wine class). However, it took on all sorts of wonderful tastes with the Hamachi Parfait. Tempura Langoustine – Chilled Ceviche Asian pear, Galangal One side of the dish had a batter coated tender langoustine tail one end resting in a creamy, whipped green galangal. A dab of diced Asian pear salad supported the other end of the tail. A little cup held some a tiny piece of cerviche topped with slivers of lemon peel and a spear of lemongrass. Ceviche was ok. Shellfish tail was outstanding. Ya know, I never heard of galangal until a few days ago. Suddenly I've had it twice in two days. Here at MM, and at Won Thai in Hercules. What are the chances? It is a ginger like root. Have no clue if MM used lesser or greater galangal. More info in this link: http://www.asiafood.org/glossary_1.cfm?alpha=G&wordid=3265&startno=1&endno=25 Potato Crusted John Dory Walla Walla Onion, Malt Vinegar Ok, this is MM’s take on fried fish with the little pool of malt vinegar on one side. The fish with the wonderful thin crispy crust was topped with the dollop of a different tartar sauce. There might not be much of it, but MM knows his tarter sauce. Lovely sweet carmelized onions. I substituted the Lobster Pot Pie for the Seared Fois Gras since I don’t eat fois gras. This really was as great as everyone says. The paired down version came in a small copper pot. The server, removes the top crust, tops it with the little lobster tail in the pot and then spoons the brandied lobster cream and seasonal veggies like pea shoots and mushrooms around the lobster tail. Everything …. great … beyond rich. I was full after that. Crispy Skin Quail – White Asparagus Bacon, braised morel, frisee On one side of the dish was indeed a piece of quail with the most amazing crispy skin and juicy meat with a little tiny piece of bone attached. I didn’t care where I was I gnawed all the meat off that tiny bone. It sat on a pool of eggy hollandaise sauce with two baby thin shaved pieces of white asparagus. No match for Chez Spencer’s white asparagus. This was nice though with a endive flavor and crunch. Next to the crispy quail was a wonderful little dish that had some slices of sausage, bits of intensely flavored bacon (we’re not talking bacos here), topped with frissee and a perfectly poached quail egg. So good and I’m not a person who likes quail eggs as a rule. American Kobe Rib Roast Au Poivre, Horseradish mash, carmelized onions. Topped with three nice onion rings this was really just fillet mignon type of cut (a tiny cut) that was seared on the outside. Nice sweet carmelized onions and strongly horseradished mashed potatoes. Banana Tarte Tatin Caramel Sauce, cinnamon Ice cream The waiter said it was a version of bananas foster. When my fork hit that almost pudding like consistency tart I was skeptical, The soft baked bananas WERE almost like a warm pudding. The caramel was not too sweet and that ice cream was just wonderful with it. This was paired with a lovely claret colored 1990 Neiport “Coheito” tawny port that had all sorts of spicy flavors. I know the name because I like it so much I asked the server to write it down. Cappuccino was fine and only (ONLY) $4.50 as compared to the Ritz’s eight buck cup. Skip the coffee both places. The cheapo in me just can’t see paying that for a cup of coffee. They don’t push the bottled water, but I wish I got the Voss Norwegian water in the stunning tall bottle. There were two ice cream bon bons – one cookies and cream covered with white chocolate (nice) the other raspberry coated with dark chocolate and dipped in some sort of oatmeal thing (eh). There were no parting gifts. The room I disliked so much at a Christmas tea, takes on a different quality at night. It has a casual understated sophistication. The music is live, from the piano in the lounge. There is an energy to the room but any noise is absorbed by the high ceilings. The waiters, dressed all in black are professional and helpful. I would take clients and visitors here. Validated parking is $17 for three hours. The Union Square garage is so close, that is just the better option. There is a small elevator for handicapped access to the dining room. Dress is business casual. There were some people there dressed in their ‘shopping in Union Square” clothes and carrying shopping bags (small tasteful shopping bags.) One of the staff was from Las Vegas and talked about the three MM restaurants there. I asked if MM actually was in the SF restaurant. He said that MM is there every night except Sunday. In fact he came out and chatted with a large group. I liked MM for the best balance of atmosphere, food and presentation. However, I give The Dining Room at the Ritz the edge because of the food and wine. Maybe the presentation isn’t as fun as MM, but the flavors are just so much better. It’s a totally different thing though. The Ritz is the closest to elegant top European restaurants. Michael Mina is all American and has a style of its own. Tasting Crawl Rankings The Dining Room at the Ritz Michael Mina The French Laundry Gary Danko Here’s Michael’s Classic Tasting Menu Ahi Tuna Tartare Scotch Bonnet Peppers, Sesame Oil Maine Lobster Pot Pie Brandied Lobster Cream, Seasonal Vegetables Miso Glazed Sea Bass Black Pepper Crab Consommé, Toasted Israel Couscous Roasted Fois Gras Maui Gold Pineapple, vanilla Pan Fried Poussin Truffled Macaroni and Cheese Steak Rossini Seared Fois Gras, Pinot Noir Sauce Chocolate Cake Peanut Butter Pudding Cake, Peanut Butter Shake. Tired of long, boring posts? Chow News summarizes the best tips of the week. Links to Original posts, maps, and restaurant websites (if any). Link: http://chowhound.safeshopper.com/23/cat23.htm?933 Fri May 20 03:39:58 -0700 2005 0 Krys 1 168225 Keep 'em coming, Krys! Your server wrote the port name down wrong, the spelling is Niepoort Colheita. I'm surprised that it would be as red as claret at this age. I would have expected it to be browner (tawny), perhaps with a bit of ruddiness, but not claret garnet. Fri May 20 04:16:05 -0700 2005 168224 0 Melanie Wong 2 168226 Thanks. I really love this stuff so I appreciate the right name. Hmmm, I was trying to think of the right color ... it had a lovely red tone to it, perhaps a watered down cranberry color which sounds awful and doesn't quite do it. It was very pretty and clear not a deep red but rather jewel like. Fri May 20 04:52:51 -0700 2005 168225 0 Krys 3 168408 Niepoort is a specialist in the tawny style of port. You'll enjoy exploring other colheita years from this excellent producer. Sat May 21 02:23:05 -0700 2005 168226 0 Melanie Wong 1 168228 fantastic post, Krys! i think you really hit the nail on the head with your description of the differences between the DR (my new fave, too) and MM. MM's atmosphere is fun (if a bit noisy), but I agree that the cuisine isn't quite as sophisticated as the DR. also, i have had MM's classic menu (either in full tasting menu format (both at MM and at Aqua) or various a la carte meals) many times-- i know, i know... what am i complaining about -- over the past 5 years, so i find him to be somewhat of a one-trick pony. i LOVE his trick, but it is a little tired in some respects, in my opinion. i remember being absolutely knocked over the first time i had his tasting menu at aqua, so that is definitely a credit to the chef. that being said, ron siegel's cuisine has a certain amount of subtle mystery that is very appealing to me these days. such a great idea to do this crawl... thanks for sharing! Fri May 20 08:35:40 -0700 2005 168224 0 vespaloon 1 168239 sounds great, fantastic report, we are going to MM next sunday and hopefully we will finally agree on at least one :) Fri May 20 11:46:08 -0700 2005 168224 0 bandit 1 168251 Whoa! :) MM above FL? Yet another sign of the coming apocalypse! Fri May 20 12:07:57 -0700 2005 168224 0 JS 2 168254 I've finally figured out that Krys' unidentified fiance is Michael Bauer. Fri May 20 12:14:48 -0700 2005 168251 0 Gary Soup 1 168256 Wow. These days when I see the name "Krys," the only thing that pops into my head is a big neon sign flashing "DROOL GUARD NEEDED!!" Would you mind sharing the rough price of one of these banana tarts or small plates in the lounge area? Another poster said she paid $40 for three drinks recently. Can I assume desserts and small plate are also in the $15 range? Fri May 20 12:20:36 -0700 2005 168224 0 nooodles 2 168265 Most of the small plates were $10. The lobster corn dogs and truffled popcorn were $12 each. They also had caviar ranging from $20 - $50. Not sure about drink prices. I was just about to read the ingrediants for Michaels' cocktail when the Dining Room opened. The actual dessert on the lounge menu was Chocolate Cake Peanut Butter Pudding Cake, Peanut Butter Shake. I don't see why you couldn't ask nicely for the banana tarte. I don't get down to Union Sqaure that often these days, but next time I want to check out the bar and see what you can order there. It would be really cool if you could order one item off the regular menu, like say th salads (I'm really hung up on those). Yeah, I was killing time in the lounge waiting to the restaurant to open and read the lounge menu. I was noting the the small plates because I was still in my skeptical phase ... look at that ... lobster corn dogs ... snort snort To Gary: I was so shocked I liked a place like this as much as Michael Baur. But you have picked up on my secret daliance with MB. However after that Bizou review, the romance was off. Fri May 20 12:42:18 -0700 2005 168256 0 Krys 1 168289 Super review as always. What's left? Fifth Floor and Masa's? Since you went to TFL, perhaps you should get some geographical balance by trying Manresa? Fri May 20 15:08:03 -0700 2005 168224 0 Paul H 2 168298 Fleur de Lys and Campton Place as well. I'm not sure about Masa's. Is anyone good there? Manressa is a big blowout weekend. No way to travel back from Los Gatos, so I'll stay there and then spend some time in HMB. Not in the same league, but I found Chowhound through Cetrella. I couldn't believe such mediocre food was coming out of a place that put so much care into the design of the kitchen and restaurant. I was searching the web for SOMEONE who agreed with my opinion ... voila ... Chowhound. So going to give Cetralla another chance. Fri May 20 15:32:35 -0700 2005 168289 0 Krys 3 168380 Gregory Short is currently Executive Chef and Richard Reddington is "Chef in residence." Reddington has cooked at Spago, Chapeau!, Postrio, La Folie, and Auberge de Soliel in California, plus L'Arpage in Paris. Short was sous chef at the French Laundry for four years and was recently Executive Chef at The Loft in Laguna Beach. I had a multi-course meal at Masa's recently and it was quite good. I guess I should post about it. Perhaps mañana. Fri May 20 22:28:33 -0700 2005 168298 0 Paul H 4 168386 My understanding is that Richard Reddington left several months ago. Anyone else knwo the scoop? Fri May 20 23:05:36 -0700 2005 168380 0 anti-foodie 3 168383 I'm glad you're including Fleur De Lys on your crawl -- I enjoyed the tasting menu there a few months ago quite a bit more than a recent trip to Gary Danko (which was certainly good, with wonderful service, but overall fell short of expectations). And I hope you'll consider adding La Folie to the list -- it combines great food and wine with a uniquely warm and charming ambience that, to my mind, the other stellar places in SF can't touch. Fri May 20 22:48:22 -0700 2005 168298 0 Rod Williams 4 168387 I thought Fleur de Lys was a snore -- cherry tomoatoes on top of every dish! But I've heard that La Folie is amazing with the new chef from a friend who went there. Fri May 20 23:06:56 -0700 2005 168383 0 anti-foodie 5 168388 oops. i mean new REMODEL. Same Chef. I would miss the marionettes. Fri May 20 23:08:03 -0700 2005 168387 0 anti-foodie 1 168337 Thanks so much for writing up your tasting menu crawl, Krys! I really enjoy reading about your findings, your posts are great. I was treated to MM last month for my birthday, had one of the three-course dinners and was very impressed as well. I'd put it just slightly below my dinner at Masa's under Ron Siegal for the best meal I've had. And while I've never been to GD, I did try Viognier once while he was chef there and couldn't figure out why people liked it. Maybe I should save my money and skip FL after all :) Fri May 20 18:29:37 -0700 2005 168224 0 PekoePeony 2 168347 After a few years separation from my French Laundry lunch, I would not discourage anyone from going. I guess I get a little overly dramatic when I say things like "ripped off". In the long run, I was glad I had the experience. I just read over my post on FL and I guess the thing that sticks out is where I said there was no "wow" moment. Although everything was so technically perfect. Looking over that post, I have to say of all the places (ok 4, so far), French Laundry did have the best service because it truly was perfect and unobtrusive. The Dining Room calls attention to itself with it's formality and French accected staff. It was impeccable, but you were aware it was there. Not the case with FL. Michael Minna was casual. The sommolier popped in an out. Sometimes the waiter poured, sometimes someone else. I was a little exasperated with the change of silver between each course. My back was to the window, so the waiter would place the utensils on the right then walk around the table to place the utensils to the left. If the table had space in back of it, I know this would not have been so noticble. I just wanted to say, "just reach across and put the darn fork down". The other thing was I had the tasting menu to my left on the table. I moved my bread plate over it while eating. Each course, the waiter would slide the darn bread plate off the menu. Somewhere around course six I just anticipated this and moved the dumb plate off the little piece of menu before he showed up. There is so much to like about the French Laundry. Like Chez Panisse the best local incrediants are used. It is just, for me, I had to think and analyze why each course was great. I wasn't first hit over the head with flavor. And what I said was true a few years ago in this post. I don't remember a thing about the menu except for the first time rabbit experience. Link: http://www.chowhound.com/topics/show/24828#97775 Fri May 20 19:18:10 -0700 2005 168337 0 Krys