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Jan 26, 2007 06:12 AM

French Bistro, Milford, NH

I tried this restaurant for the first time for lunch yesterday and was very impressed. I was seated in the older section of the restaurant which is a converted caboose. Somehow, it managed to be elegant and cozy at the same time. They had a good selection for lunch including reasonably priced sandwiches and soups but I opted for the three course pre-fixe. All the entrees were available as either a la carte or pre-fixe for an additional five dollars. As it was cold out, I chose the soup, which was a cream of tomato. It was a far cry from the canned version. It was a light, beautifully balanced tomato bisque, in a generous bowl. The seeds or something worked to give it an interesting texture without being crunchy or chewy. The bisque was clearly not thickened with flour, nor was it too cloying as pure cream often is. The seasoning was delicate and spot on. I'm not usually a tomato soup fan but I'd take another bowl of this soup any time. Next came my entree, the salmon which was clearly very fresh and sauteed perfectly so that the skin was crunchy although not breaded. Unfortunately it was farmed rather than wild salmon but it couldn't have tasted better. The bed of vegetables under the salmon were an interesting blend of baby veggies, succulently delicious. I had mentioned to the waitress that I didn't eat gluten so the tangerine tart which was the luncheon offering wouldn't do for me. She said she would talk with the chef about what they could give me. Most restaurants either serve me what is offered or allow me to choose something else off of the desert menu. I think this was a first time for being made a special dessert. As I was about halfway through my entree she returned and asked if cheesecake without crust would be all right for desert. I replied it would be great. Little did I expect how great it would be. Desert was two scoops of a lovely, cheesecake mousse divided by, I believe, a lightly candied slice of chementine and surrounded by dabs of a yummy but not overly sweet chementine marmalade that went perfectly with the cheesecake. I skipped the wine which would have been a good companion to the lunch and had coffee instead. Excellent coffee. Service was attentive but not oppressive and the delivery of courses nicely paced. My bill came to 22.00 before tip. I'll definitely be back.

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  1. Last time there, the chef/owner was exiled to Quebec. Has he 'ze paperz' yet?

    2 Replies
    1. re: trufflehound

      Yes, does anyone know if the owner back yet? It's been a long time.

      1. re: trufflehound

        The owner is still in Quebec. Ze processing of ze papers, however, is going forward at the speed of bureaucracy.

      2. Nice review--we're lucky to have this place in the neighborhood. Plus, they have an ice cream stand in the summer--not quite Berthillon, but yummy.