L’Orcio in New Haven: Best Italian Restaurant I Know
- Jim Leff Jan 25, 2007 10:10 AM
L’Orcio in New Haven (806 State Street, New Haven, CT; 203-777-6670; http://www.lorcio.com) is so so killer.
I hit it on my Chow Tour, and you can read about it and see photos toward the bottom of this page: http://www.chow.com/tour/327
But the Chow Tour was like an altered state of mind, so I'd been itching to return under more normal circumstances. I beelined, on a trip to Boston, unswayed by much tempting chow en route, and headed straight to L'Orcio, where I ate lunch in a dismayingly empty room, my eyes blazing as they do when I experience the rare certainty that Nobody Anywhere Is Eating Any Better Than I Am In This Very Moment.
Having stuck to pasta last time, this time I got veal. I forgot what they called it (not Francese), but it was medallions, very lightly breaded and sauteed in wine sauce. This subtle dish tends to be either clunky (iffy quality veal with hasty sauce) or soulless (over-tenderized flavorless veal with overly rarified sauce). Here it was perfection. The meat had personality, the sauce was deft, it all came together - the sum even better than the wonderful parts. It had wok breath.
This was served with potatoes roasted so carefully that I could visualize the chef peering into the broiler with unbroken attention to catch the perfect microsecond of brownness. And with a pile of perfect polished (but non-prissy) spinach leaves. The waiter recommended a white wine, and it was as delicious as all their wine selections plus paired beautifully.
There was one other man in the restaurant with me, and we exchanged feelings of regret that there wasn't more business here. Where else is anyone eating that's better than this?
The ambiance matches the food. Nice, sleek, carefully done but also comfortable and laid back. Not trying to impress...trying to please.
I haven't had a bite or sip here that was less than sublime - though it's not a super rarified sublimity. As I said in my trip report, this is soulful lusty grandmotherish cooking prepared with sophisticated skill and subtlety. It's comfort food and serious cuisine both. It's perfect, and I've never before found this good an Italian restaurant (nor ANY restaurant that's much better).
It's worth a trip from anywhere. I'm so glad my friend Jim introduced me to it.
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Lots of different opinions is what makes this site work, so thanks for piping in with another view!
Just as an update, I've been back to L'Orcio since posting this, and was so stunned (as I had been the previous two times) that this restaurant is now in my short list of regular haunts, in spite of being a 90 minute drive from my apartment.
Vive la difference of opinion! :)
We dined at L'Orcio on Sat evening and had a wonderful meal. It was a funny beginning....all of us looked and looked (and looked!) at the menu and the specials and could not decide what to order. To say that they "understate" each dish's description would be an "understatement!" That being said, everything we ate was absolutely delicious. The young waitress was very accommodating (especially considering none of us could make up our minds!).
I had a tuna special and it was perfectly cooked and absolutely delicious. My wife had a pasta special - one of our favorite dishes - Penne A'matraciana - and we have nver had better. Our friends both had fish dishes - the Chilean sea bass (from the regular menu) and the branzino, which was on the specials page. Both were wonderful.
Our only quibble was at 8 pm, in a half enpty dining room, we were told they had run out of Caesar salad!!!!! Go figure!
My husband and I attended a conference in New Haven last weekend and ate at L'Orcio per Jim's suggestion. Holy cow, was it fantastic. My husband has raved about his main dish (spinach stuffed ravioli) for the past four days now!
The woman who ran the B&B we stayed at had never heard of L'Orcio, eventhough it was only about a mile away. I wonder if the empty dining room is due to lack of exposure (sadly, it was also quite empty when we were there.)
I highly recommend this fabulous restaurant... fantastic food and excellent service all around.
I just ate at L Orcio last week for the first time. Excellent. Excellent. Excellent. We got the gnochhi, caprese salad, and ravioli and enjoyed them. I wouldnt get their lemon tart though - too dry for my taste. Make reservations in advance to eat outside or by the window in the restaurant which are very pretty seats.