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Jan 24, 2007 06:47 AM

Recommendations for San Cristobal de las Casas?

We'll be in San Cristobal for a few days in late February. Then we're planning on a couple of nights in Palenque and possible Campeche, before heading to Puerto Morelos for a week. Looking for recommendations - thanks!

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  1. Don't miss the every-day indigenous market, very close to downtown.

    Call Na Bolom and make a dinner reservation. Be sure to arrive about at least hour before dinner so that you have time to see the museum and grounds. The museum has English-speaking guides if you need one.

    Visit the museum at the Ex-Convento, and the textile co-operative just to one side of the museum.

    Take a combi to San Juan Chamula, and a taxi from there to Zinacantán. Chamula is about a 20 minute ride from San Cristóbal de las Casas. There is nothing else like it in Mexico; in some ways the visit to the church at Chamula permanently rearranged my thinking.

    Other than having dinner at Na Bolom, I can't make a definitive recommendation for dining in San Cristóbal. Na Bolom is more about the place and its history and ambience than it is about the food, but it's a do-not-miss.

    There is every sort of restaurant in the town, from taco stands to upscale Italian and back again. I wasn't particularly impressed with the food--my friend and I bought provender at the market and generally cooked at home. There's a good gelato place on the walking street, the name of which of course I can't remember.

    Take your umbrella.

    1. There used to be a couple of Taquerías called "El Tizón Chiapaneco". (Back in 1993) If they are still there, they are worth a visit. The tacos al pastor were among the best we've ever had, but a more elaborate dish was "anafre", a ceramic charcoal burner with an iron plate on top, holding a svaory and rich assortment of grilled meats, chiles Poblanos, and queso fundido. The best of the two was on Calle Real de Guadalupe.

      1. Thanks for the replies. I think that we can get a meal prepared for us at the B&B where we're staying, so will definitely consider that for 1 meal.

        1 Reply
        1. re: SusanB

          Today I talked with my San Cristóbal de las Casas host to ask her the name of a restaurant for you. We had an excellent comida at Restaurante Teopisca, to the right at the crossroads just outside town where you would continue forward to go to San Juan Chamula. The food was delicious and don't miss the extraordinary cheese, product of the town of Teopisca, for which the restaurant is named. The restaurant isn't in any way fancy nor does it cater to tourists. Please let us know if you go. Any taxi driver should be able to get you there without to-do.

        2. Thanks very much. We will try to go there.

          I'm really looking forward to this trip. We've been to Mexico many times, but never gotten to San Cristobal de las Casas. Originally planned a trip there years ago, but the Zapatistas came into the news and we decided to postpone and go elsewhere.

          1. As I have mentioned before... Chiapas is elusive for Chowhounds with lots of tourist catering mediocre restaurants... but it also offers one of Mexico's most intriguing & distinct cuisines. I think the best way to approach it... is hit the ground and then ask locals for any of the following regional specialties... if the place has turnover, it is bound to be great:

            Savory Specialties: Sopa de fiesta, el Cochinito horneado, el Chipilín con bolita, Salpicón de pescado, la Salchicha de mero, la Lisa ahumada, el Caldo shutis, Armadillo en mole, el Venado, la Carne de res seca en pulque, el Tamal chiapaneco, la Longaniza, el Jamón serrano, la Butifarra, Ninguijuti, Tamales de yuyos, la Lisa horneada, el Huacasis caldo o sispola, Queso relleno, Tacos de plátano, Tamales de juacane, las Chalupas, el Pescado de chumul, la Chafaina, el Nacapit, , los Cananes, el Chumul, Ziguamonte .

            Regional Desserts: Cocadas, Cajetas y duraznos prensados, el Jamoncillo, el Rompope, el Ponche de piña con marquesote, Dulces de masa, Plátanos de gloria, Dulces de contusa, Dulce de sandía.

            Traditional Beverages: Pozol de Cacao, Agua de Cacao, Pinole de Maíz.