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Puebla, Oaxaca & DF updates (esp. El Naranjo, Oaxaca)

First, thanks for the excellent recs on the boards. My wife and I are taking the week-long cooking class at Mesones Sacristia, and then splitting a week btw DF and Oaxaca.

Any update on whether El Naranjo has re-opened or the whereabouts of Iliana?

And, if anyone has any more rec's or wants to give their faves another shout-out, I'm all ears (or eyes).

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  1. My boyfriend and I were just in DF for a few days. We ate a lot of tacos- our favorites were at El Caminero on Rio Lerma by the Sharaton.

    I also recommend having a drink with some snacks at the Condesa DF hotel. We loved their guac w/ pomegranate seeds and their fried, stuffed zucchini blossoms...great soups, too. The best thing about it is the atmosphere, which is clean, minimalistic, and tranquil- just what we needed after roaming the streets all day.

    This is not food related, but if you've never been to DF before, you should do the Turibus. It's really informative and a great value at only 100 pesos/adult.

    1. I ́m in Oaxaca right now. According to Susana Trilling, Iliana has closed up and left town for good. She ́s now in Santa Fe. A pity, but there ́s plenty of fantastic food to behad here. Have a great time, and I ́ll be posting a full report sometime next week. One quick recommendation, check out El Topil in the Plaza Alcalá, a cute little place run by a grandmotherly woman who cooks fantastic and simple traditional oaxacan dishes. She ́s very sweet, will cook anything you want to order, and will happily chat with you about the city, the food, her restaurant, etc.

      3 Replies
      1. re: OakTownHound

        absolutely concur on El Topil
        esp if she makes lentil soup (it's a special)
        the quesadilla double is so perfect with herbs and cheese...she does a more rarified version of the food you get in the mercados

        1. re: OakTownHound

          Is the Oaxaca Inn still open and how about teh Camino Real, I like their restaurant there

          1. re: OakTownHound

            I am from Oaxaca and would like to be in touch with Chef Ileana de la Vega. Anyway you can send me her contact info in Santa Fe?
            By the way...try Los Almendros in Colonia Reforma. Great Guisado de Guias!

          2. You will master the perfect chiles en nogada while in Puebla?

            1. As reported up post, Naranjo is closed for good. If you walk by it, you might actaully walk right by it like we did the first time, it's been painted over by grafitti and the ensuing 'clean up' operation.

              1. Thanks for the tips everyone. I am in Oaxaca right now, having finished a week cooking in Puebla. Great learning experience--the secret is roasting the base ingredients in a comal without oil (we bought three). Chefs Alonso, Raul and the acknowledged "owner" of the cocina, Sarita were generous with their time and ideas. Full report to follow.

                No chiles en nogado this time because we are out of season.