Berlin
I am looking for suggestions in Berlin. I will be there for a week in business. Mostly looking for inexpensive places, take out and places where it would be ok to dine alone. A couple of higher end suggestions too, since I may be going out with co-workers one night. My hotel is in the Under den Linden area, nearby the Galleries Lafayette.
First time in Berlin, so I welcome any suggestions, thanks.
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Monsieur Vuong's? Sorry it is just another watered-down for the German palate Vietnamese restaurant. I really don't get why everyone raves about it. I grew up eating Vietnamese food and have eaten in in Vietnam on many visits. This place does not even come CLOSE and for the price...? I will eat 'less authentic' Vietnamese food no problem, but Monsieur Vuong's is just completely not worth considering.
I've lived here for a long time now and my conclusion is if you want really good food, go to the markets and cook at home. You are not going o be excited about much foodwise in Germany. Or stick with the cheap stuff like doner or steinofen pizza and don't get disappointed by spending a lot of money.
I found one Indian restaurnat that normally caters to the bland German palate. But when I insisted on 'truly Indian scharf (spicy)' the waier brought me a chili sauce that was definitely sufficient. He said the waiters eat that, they don't serve it in the restaurant. Then the vindaloo came and I also asked for 'Indian hot' and it was not. Anyhow it was still flavorful and I would recommend it. It is called Aapka on Kastanianallee.
That's ONE restaurant that I will remember in 5 months of living here and trying to keep an open mind by still trying new restaurants. Don't know when I will just give up and save my euros :OP›5 Replies-
re: muppditt
It is practically impossible to get good Indian food in Berlin, whether it's spicy or not. And I'm sorry, but you will have that "make it spicy" dilemma in most countries if you're Caucasian.
Msr. Vuong was great about 5 years ago.
Lastly, I don't know what constitutes having lived "here for a long time now", but the idea that there are no good restaurants in Berlin is ridiculous. Maybe you need to look around more, or leave Prenzlauer Berg and Mitte every once in while, both neighborhoods mostly cater to one time visitors.
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re: linguafood
Agree with linguafood that you can eat well or horribly in both cities.
I find it somewhat easier to eat well in Berlin, while eating on a budget (i.e. less than 30 EU/$40 USD per meal). I've gotten the impression that the locals in Berlin are less likely to put up with low quality restaurant food or baked goods than your average New Yorker or average New York tourist (who might be happy enough with the food court options under Grand Central, Cafe Europa, or Hot & Crusty, or Magnolia). When I say average New Yorker or average New York tourist, I'm not talking about Chowhounds who are seeking out the delicious, who would not put up with substandard food.
In New York, if I plan my restaurants carefully, and the stars are aligned, I can end up with a string of great meals, but if I wing it, I usually end up with mediocre meals and some disappointments, and maybe 1 or 2 pleasant surprises. In Berlin, I've rarely had time to plan my meals in advance, so most of my meals are at places that just happen to be located in the neighbourhood I happen to be visiting. Usually the meals are reasonably good, and sometimes great. I can't remember being served anything that was off, or rancid, or bad-tasting in Berlin, whereas I can remember being served awful meals in Paris and in New York.
That being said, I like German and Mitteleuropean food, and I'm happy with eating quality German food when I'm in Berlin. I can see that it could be frustrating to live in Berlin if you aren't fond of German and/or Mitteleuropean food,
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My sister just got back from a trip to Berlin, and she wrote a little trip report for my New Orleans based food blog. I thought it was an amusing account of her trip and just wanted to share.
http://blackenedout.blogspot.com/2009...
Moral of the Story: when it comes to currywurst, don't settle for anything but the best.
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re: Peter B Wolf
See -- the problem lies in the opening hours. I never, ever, EVER feel like currywurst unless it is past at least midnight, I'm "slightly tipsy", and thus ravenous for hot, greasy, salty stuff.
Also, an acceptable currywurst has to be within reach, i.e., I will not travel for it.
But thanks for sharing! '-D
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I'm so glad I read all the way through this thread...great suggestions! We will be traveling to Berlin with 2 college age daughters (one a vegetarian) and will be staying in the Tiergarten area. We are all foodies, but prefer to keep how much we spend on food to a minimum.
Suggestions appreciated!
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OK, so I know this is reeeeeeally late! But perhaps someone else can make use of it. I've just spotted this: http://theshychef.wordpress.com/ - a secret restaurant in someone's home in Berlin. The menu looks brilliant! I went to a similar thing in Paris, and it was one of the best things I've ever done. Check it out!
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Here's a short report for my two weeks in Berlin -
I ate very little German food besides the street food. I ate pizza (wonderful,) Mexican (sad), Spanish (OK) and Vietnamese (Monsieur Vuongs, it was pretty good) and Chinese (great) and Thai (also great.)
Some highlights - there is a pizzeria called I Due Forni at Schonhauser Allee 12 near the Senefelder UBahn stop. I ate there twice - the dining room is big and was very crowded both times but they have GREAT pizza. I lived in Italy for a while and this pizza was real Italian pizza. The wine there is awful so drink beer instead.
Monsieur Vuongs was good, it was just a bit nuts in there and I don't like eating while looking at someone behind which is what we were doing here. The food is really good, but I think next time I'd try to go on an off-time. My fault for showing up on a Friday night!
I loved my obligatory tourist visit to Cafe Einstein - great room, very comfy as it was hailing outside, and a tasty yet pricey club sandwich totally hit the spot.
No luck for me at the Weinerei - all the tables were full and there was a sign on the door that said something about it being open to "friends" only. No worries, we went down the street to Scotch and Sofa, a bar with all kinds of trippy stuff to look at and a DJ spinning obscure 70's soul. Cool place. It's on Kollwitzstrasse a couple of blocks down from Kollwitzplatz.
I tried currywurst a couple of times - once in front of the KaDaWe and another at the Mauerpark Flea Market in Prenzlauer Berg, and to be honest it didn't do much for me. I think I'm a mustard kind of gal. I did like the 1 Euro bratwursts in the Alexanderplatz, and I REALLY loved the croissant with a frankfurter inside that they sell at the Le Crobag bakery in many of the Ubahn stops and train stations. Talk about a city you can eat constantly in.
As for markets, KaDeWe was amazing and I went twice. There is a gourmet market in the Galleria department store in the Alexanderplatz that I went to more often. Amazing chocolate selection, big bakery, lots of cured meat, pasta bar, sushi bar, etc... great place to pick up a picnic if you are changing trains at Alexanderplatz.
As for the Chinese the restaurant was in Pankow, a bit of a trek for the normal traveler and unfortunately I can't remember the name of the Thai place - it's on Kollwitzstrasse, you order at a counter and then pick it up when they call, it was cheap and they had fantastic pad Thai. Maybe another poster knows what I am talking about.
The Turkish market in Kreutzburg was wonderful and should not be missed and there is a good wine shop there on the same street - Les Caves Weine at Maybachufer 10. The Saturday market in Schoenburg was another worthwhile trek, one of the coolest outdoor markets I've been to with many bakeries, cheese vendors, olives, sweets - they even had BAGELS. They also had a cool bar with outdoor tables smack in the middle of the market and all kinds of other cafes around, just packed with people. I hit the Thursday market at Kollwitzplatz but it was raining and there was not much going on there.
There was also a great wine shop on the street where I stayed - Nix Wie Wien at Kopenhagener Strasse 6 in Prenzlauer Berg. Super cool owners and a nice selection with some trippy stuff.
Berlin is awesome. Can't wait to get back.
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re: Shannon
i second the wednesday and saturday market in schoneberg - at winterfeldplatz. great vendors, good food, nice people. beware of pickpockets though.
also while you're in schoneberg, the viktoria luise platz is worth a visit, esp potemkin (the restaurant) for a lazy sunday brunch. there's heated and covered outdoor seating. very good food, best croissants, nice beer.
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I am maybe a bit too late for the people here who said they are headed to Berlin but, just in case, I recommend Gugelhof. We ate there twice during our stay in Berlin and really enjoyed it. The staff were very friendly (I found Berliners in general to be very friendly), the atmosphere very pleasant and the food delicious.
Their website is here: http://www.gugelhof.de/main_e.html
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re: diamond_skies
Do either the Weinerei or the Wein-Salon serve food? Not three-course-meals, obviously, but pub food. Or if not, can you "bring your own"?
I've never been to Berlin - only to Western Germany - along the Rhine. Some of the chicken döner are very good, as fast-food goes. Of course I've also been to Alsace - I say of course because in Québec we tend to have more contacts with French-speaking regions - lovely food and wine, as on the German side.
Confess that northern Germany has never appealed to me much as a foodie destination - I am aching to go to Vienna, where a friend has moved, and while I'm at it visit friends in Munich and in the very, very south of Bavaria right on the Austrian border (between the Pope and Hitler, my friends joke, indeed they live halfway between those birthplaces)...
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re: lagatta
Wein-Salon had chips at the bar and I think may have sold a few snacks. It's a much cooler bar than Weinerei and brings a more interesting crowd. It's pretty small, though. They wouldn't care at all if you brought some food along. I thought the guys at Weinerei were a little snobby for the quality of wine they were serving and their understanding of wine, which didn't extend too far beyond what color it was.
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re: bropaul
Just got back from an 8 day trip to visit ailing g'mother, so not much opportunity to have lots of meals out. That having been said, I had fabulous doner kebabs at Pergamon Bistro at east end of Friedrichstrasse station under the elevated tracks. Ask for double of both sauces and have a beer with it. So very, very good b/c the meat gets sliced beforehand and gets sort of crunchy on the burner and the 4 diff. veg. garnishes are nice and fresh.
Also, ate once at Pagode on Bergmanstrasse east of Mehringdamm in Kreuzberg. Pretty darn good Thai and apparently annointed as such by the Thai Embassy.
I wanted to eat at Fischers Fritz, the only Mich. 1 star I could find that offered a 3 course lunch for 33 Euro, not cheap but not too bad, either. Sadly, didn't get there.
There are apparently some good Russian places in Prenzlauerberg. I did make it to the Saturday market in Prenzlauerberg's Kollwitzplatz -- lots of goodies to ogle, snacks to eat. There's a Thursdat market, too.
The main thing about Berlin is that the U-bahn and S-bahn systems are truly wonderful and easy to use, making a pretty large city very, very acessible, especially if you have the unlimited one week pass for 30 some Euro.
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Do you mean the market at Kollwitzplatz? It is on Thursday and Saturday. It's been a while since I was there, but there is a lot to do in that neighborhood.
Here is a link with details on the side-bar:
http://www.theberlinpaper.com/kollwit... -
I am glad to see a recent post on Berlin as I will be going next month, staying for a couple of weeks in Prenzlauer Berg.
Does anyone know where, and when I can find the weekly farmers market in Prenzlauer Berg, as I will definitely want to hit this one up.
Has anyone been to the "Weinerei?" It is a bar where you serve yourself wine and throw the money (whatever you want) into a bowl.
Any other recs for wine shops, wine bars, cool food markets, or Thai restaurants in Prenzlauer Berg would be most appreciated.
Marjellchen sounds awesome. Will definitely check that one out.
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re: Shannon
The Weinerei (Kollwitzstr. 41) is a fun place to hang out - a bunch of rooms with nice furniture and a decent wine selection. It gets pretty crowded, so it's a great place to meet people. You pay a euro for the glass and then drink as much as you want. At the end you pay whatever you think is fair.
There's another place called Wein-Salon (Schreinerstr. 59) in Friedrichshain that also has a classy if rustic interior, a pool table, and doesn't get as crowded. You can order by the bottle there. One street over in the direction of Frankfurter Allee is Rigaer Str., where a lot of squatters used to live. Here you'll find a bar, "open" on weekends, called "das Loch," or "the hole." It's a hole in the sidewalk that leads to a basement/bar.
If you end up in Zehlendorf (way out in West Berlin) there's an all German wine shop with an awesome selection and friendly owners. If you're interested I'll get the address next week when I'm out there again. I'll post it on my site (below) as well.
I haven't had any good Thai food in Berlin, but I'll look into it this week and get back to you if I find something. Do eat at Monsieur Vuong in Mitte (Alte Schönhauser Str. 46).
Jeremy
diningberlin.wordpress.com/
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Oh my God, the doner is so good there! We stayed at a hostel in Kreuzberg and I had to walk by this amazing doner place every day and I always had to stop and get some. Do you know how I knew it was good?
Because every morning the doner meat pillar would be brand new and by the end of the day it would be like a little sick with some sad meat bits clinging to it...and they had one for lamb and one for chicken, and usually both would be gone every night by about 2am. Maybe they just stayed open until it was gone?›1 Reply-
re: bolletje
And here I need to set the record straight: While the original Doener Kebap is a real turkish dish, served on a plate with butter soaked flat bread and tomato sauce. the German version, stuffed in bread with some salad and yoghurt-garlic sauce is actually the invention of a Turkish guy in Berlin, some time early 70's. Ever since the Germans eat more Doener Kebap sandwiches than the entire Turkish population :)
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I just got back from Berlin and I found my eating experiences to be quite fun
I liked the food hall at KDW a great deal and you should do a comparison between the currywurst in there and the one served right outside at the bio place, Witty
The Konnopke was perhaps the best currywurst of the lot although we also had a good one in the weekly farmers market in Prenzlauer Berg
For restaurants, I enjoyed the schitzel at the original Lutter & Wegner in Charlottenburg very much. A little touristy but worth a try.
I also went to Marjellchen which I enjoyed although the East Prussian offerngs are of a scary size.
The best meal of the trip though was in the rather fun area of Schoeneberg where we ate at Storch ( stork, I think ) which is a lovely alsatian restaurant with communal tables and a very genial host. The choucroute was very good indeed and a dish of braised beef cheeks was one of the best things I have eaten so far this year.
Here are some links to pictures on the blog
http://majbros.blogspot.com/2007/01/dos-hermanos-do-berlin-bittebaby.html
http://majbros.blogspot.com/2007/01/dos-hermanos-do-berlin-day-two-morning_28.html
http://majbros.blogspot.com/2007/01/dos-hermanos-do-berlin-day-two-evening.html
http://majbros.blogspot.com/2007/01/dos-hermanos-do-berlin-day-three.html
http://majbros.blogspot.com/2007/01/d...
Hope any of this helps
S
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re: Simon Majumdar
KaDeWe:
"....enough room to gaze in awe at the stands serving everything from fabulous fresh fish along side the widest selection of smoked fish I can recall. Fresh meats sat next to Game which sat along side a counter for sausages and ham the size of a tennis court. In the midst of all of this are the gourmet stalls which allow you the chance to try much of what is on offer."Thanks for a fabulous vicarious revisit. So you could not help yourself - Currywurst... that's so funny. When you are in Berlin, you settle into a Berlin mindset, and you willingly partake in culinary atrocities! I enjoyed it.
Don't remember having a Leberwurst or a Blutwurst there.... sure could use some right now.
A great report.
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re: grocerytrekker
Thanks to all of you for this nice discussion -- genetically speaking I'm a Berliner (and no, I don't mean the jelly doughnut!) and was going to introduce my hubby to my favorite city this June but the trip has fallen through so this thread (and the links to the pics from Simon above) has been a nostalgic treat for me!
Currywurst forever!
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Thanks to everybody for the feedback. Unfortunately my time in Berlin was too much work and no play... The place I ate the most was the company's cafeteria! But I will be going back soon and I am looking forward to trying some of your suggestions.
The few places I was able to explore:
Einstein Kafffe - for the best coffee in Berlin, according to my German co-workers. I enjoyed really good cappuccino and deliscious muesli. I heard that the original Eistein Caffe is really nice for German/Austrian food. I only went to the little cafe at Friedrichstrasse where they don't serve meals, only coffee and pastries.
I had a very good dinner at Bocca di Bacco, Italian restaurant at Friedichstrasse next door to Einstein. It wasn't cheap, but I had a really good risotto.
Had a schnitzel at Luther and Wegner. Good ambiance and good food.
Had a couple of inexpensive good light meals at the Sagrantino Bar nearby my hotel and a good crepe at the Galeries Lafayette food court. -
So I won't start a thread where people will have to repeat themselves....
We'll be in Berlin in the spring for almost a week. All kinds of suggestions would be appreciated. We'd like to try a few higher end places if they're good - but we will also need some lighter meals - there's a limit to how much food we can eat.
We are particularly interested in German food - traditional and "new" - and any non-German ethnic food that is good and that would be hard to find in other cities/countries.
We will be staying at the Ritz Carlton - so dinners within a walk/short cab ride would be nice. But I assume we will be sightseeing all over the city. So lunch suggestions in other areas would be great. Robyn
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re: pvgirl
For traditional food, I really liked Marjellchen. http://www.marjellchen-berlin.de/ A menu posted on the website is in English, but the night we were there, we were the only travellers, the rest of the clientele was German.
They serve traditional dishes from East Prussia, West Prussia, Pomerania, and Silesia.These regions have been part of Poland since the war, but they had a large German speaking population, many of whom moved to Germany after the War. I find the style of food from these regions to be a little more interesting than standard Berliner food. Marjellchen also serves Berliner specialties like Konigsberger Klopse & Eisbein. They also serve wild game, and usually have a few seasonal specialties on the menu.
The rotebeetbartscht aka borscht, was amazing, the best I've had in a restaurant. The duck was delicous. Good rotegruetze (a warm pudding made of currants and other red fruits, served with custard sauce) for dessert -my favourite thing to order in Berlin.
I find many people seem to stick to schnitzel and roast pork when they travel to Germany, and then think that German food has to be heavy. The fish courses can be very good in Eastern Germany. Any time I've ordered trout in Berlin, which is often served pan-fried or almandine, I've been happy with it. The smoked salmon and herring also tend to be very good in Berlin, afterall the Ostsee is less than 3 hours away.
If you're looking for a lighter meal, and you find yourself in a tradtional German restaurant, I've found that I'm usually very happy just ordering the Gemischter salat, which is a large salad plate containing at least 5 or 6 different prepared salads. The soup servings tend to be quite a bit larger in Germany than elsewhere. Sometimes the soup serving has been so big that I haven't needed to order anything else.
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For inexpensive -
I recommend KaDeWe food court, on Kurfurstendamm (or commonly Kudamm) It is a loooong street, but ask people, and you can't miss KaDeWe department store. You will have a snack feast.(Well it's not exactly Kudamm - close.)
Tauentzienstr. 21-24
10789 Berlin, Germany
030/2121 - 0The street stand bockwursts - I never got tired of them. Cheap and good.
Turkish Doner is fine, but remember it's comparable to having "Italian food" at American pizza stands. It is a severely limited representation of the Turkish cuisine.
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A short walk up Friedrichstrasse is Oranienburger Strasse with several places I would recommend for the low-key eating alone (or with others). Cafe Orange and Cafe Oren. They are on the same side of the street and pretty close to each other. There is an U-Bahn stop (Oranienburger Tor) or an S-Bahn (Oranienburger Strasse). If you like Indian (Northern), Amrit at Oranienburgerstr. 45 is good. On the opposite side of the street from Orange or Oren is a bar with a large variety of beers (100 different kinds) and whiskey (40+) , caled Aufsturz. Also low-key, the place you'd go to read or just talk over a few beers.
Further down Unter den Linden, behind the University under the S-Bahn tracks really close to the Museum Insel on Georgenstr. 2 (you can take the 100 bus if you don't want to walk) is Die Zwölf Apostel, which has a lunch special you can't beat...half price pizzas, very good.
As for really cheap and really Berlin, Turkish food stands selling Döner Kebabs is the way to go, if you don't mind standing up and a high likelihood of yummy drippy garlic sauce. Döner connoisseurs all have their favorite place...and I haven't lived there in a while so my favorite may not be there anymore, but it WAS at the norhtwest corner of Torstr. and Brunnenstr. right outside the U-Bhf Rosenthaler Platz, which is on the U8 line.
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re: dairyspice
Forgive the unscientific statistical approach , but keep in mind that 90% of curries made in Berlin will be cream-based. As a result, 95% of all Indian restaurants and imbisses are serving curries which are virtually indistinguishable from one another. The people here don't seem phased. One interesting alternative are the African oriented Massai places on Goltzstrasse in Schoneberg -- a cool, inexpensive eating street, and Prenzlauer Berg's Lychener Strasse, another cool inexpensive eating area.
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Stayed at the Adlon a few weeks ago right near Brandenburg Gate. Higher end recos within walking distance of your locale--Margaux and Vau. Moderate---Lutter and Wegner. Great bar scene at Newton. Cafe Einstein good for light breakfast. Connected to Galleries Lafayette is a shopping center with great people watching and good light meals or drinks in a beautiful lobby. A beautiful space with great food is Maxwell. Avoid Aigner.
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re: trav
here's a copy of my tripadvisor review for Vau. it was a horrible experience - poor service, expensive, food was hit or miss, stuffy environment.
Vau, what a disappointment...
i think the restaurant must be resting on its laurels since it received a michelin star 9 years ago. the service was poor, the food hit highs (lobster and beef were great) and lows (one forgettable course which i can;t recall and a dessert that was 20 minutes late and not worth the wait), and the ambiance was muted and bland.
the tasting menu ranged from 85-125 euros per person. i had the 85 euro version without foie gras and cheese course. there were several mix-ups about who got what at our table of 8. 5 of us participated in the tasting menu and 3 ordered a la carte. i was surprised that it wasn't required that the entire table order either a la carte or the tasting menu, but soon i realized that was the first sign that this wasn't going to be a haute cuisine experience. our table had to remind the waitstaff several times what we ordered, and as mentioned, my dessert was apparently forgotten and served after 45 minutes wait.
compared to the top-rated restaurants in a similar price range in NYC - eleven madison park, tocqueville, daniel, blue hill, etc - this was a real disappointment.
we had a much better eating experience at the winterfeldplatz market on saturdays. great grilled fish, bratwurst, fresh juice, melted cheese sandwiches... all for less than 10 euros!
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I apologize in advance because I cannot remember the name of this restaurant, but it is very easy to find and on your side of town. It is located right at the Brandenburg Gate on the left hand side if you are looking down Under den Linden into East Berlin. I was there last year and it is a wonderful new Berlin type of restaurant. I was there in August and had this incredible Chanterelle tasting menu as they were in season. Anyway, give it a try you will not be disappointed and if you do, please respond with the name of the place.
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re: mattesq
that would probably be Vau, the only michelin-starred restaurant in berlin. i had a prix fixe lunch there on a business trip. it was good, but not earth-shattering. great lunch deal though (can't remember exactly how much). given the general lack of fine-dining in berlin, it's probably the best you can do.
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re: coookie
There are currently *nine* Michelin (one) star restaurants in Berlin. A bunch have been added over the past few years, including I think two for this current year. (Just checked the website -- www.viamichelin.com -- look under tourism -> the michelin guide -> search restaurants.)
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re: coookie
You must be thinking of Theodor Tucher (http://www.thementeam.de/neu/tucher/r...), a solid German restaurant that's quite good value for that area.
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Everyone loves Monsieur Vuong in Mitte. In Prenzlauer Berg around Kollwitz Platz and across Danziger there are all sorts of cool, moderate cafes where you can pick and choose whatever you like. In Berlin, cheap food comes in Turkish, Lebanese, imbiss-looking places. These places fill you cheaply and moderately without much style. The cafes have style. But, strange and stereotypical as it sounds, compared to lots of other folks around the world, Berliners are not so simply interested in food and it shows. Bread and coffee are higher art forms unless you are at the top end.
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re: crach
A recent photo from Monsieur Vuong, which I visited in April 2007:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/35409174@N00/479267733/
Several of my Berlin food experiences are documented on my blog. If you're interested, please check out, www.passionaterations.com
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