Bruni/EMP and Bar at the Modern
Danny Meyer just can't catch a break. Bruni gives EMP and The Bar three stars and yet the review leads off with nasty things about Tabla, USC and Gramarcy Tavern. Seems to me that Frank should focus on the restaurants he's reviewing and leave extraneous comments to his blog or a non-review food piece.
In my view, this paired review is an insult to Chef Daniel Humm. Since he took over the kitchen, Eleven Madison Park has become one of New York's most stellar restaurants, absolutely deserving of a stand-alone review. Furthermore, while the sensational cuisine is paramount, Bruni's review says nothing about the excellent wine list or the perfect service, to say nothing of the gorgeous space, all integral to the fine dining experience there. Every meal we've had there since Chef Humm's arrival has been of 4-star quality.
As for the stars awarded to the Bar Room at the Modern, we now have the very strange situation of the casual dining space having three stars while the formal dining room has only two. I'm guessing that Gabriel Kreuther, who is the chef for both venues, is less than thrilled.