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I miss LA!!! Food report: Sushi Gen, Dumpling 10053, Bifengtang, etc

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  • Rafie Jan 9, 2007 07:35 AM
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Summary: I grew up in LA and now live in NY. Man-oh-MAN do I miss the food we can get here!! Reasonably-priced sushi that tastes great, fantastic Taiwanese and Chinese food with clean flavors, and of course, Mom's great cooking.

On to the standards I usually hit when I go home:

SUSHI GEN.
Still a fantastic value. I can rant forever on the lousyness (lousiness?) of the low-to-mid-priced sushi options in NYC (cold clumpy rice, striated fish with no semblance of texture, lousy cuts...mutter muttter mutter)....but Sushi Gen is great esp for its price. The wait was long (45 min on a Wednesday night?), but mostly it was because everyone wanted to wait for a table.

The sashimi dinner my mom got was what everyone at the tables was waiting for (around $22). And what a deal: she got at least 10 pieces of your usual suspects (tuna, squid, yellowtail, etc) plus a clump of spicy tuna, ...blah blah blah. I'm rarin' to get to my own meal so I'll skip her great deal. My own a la carte order consisted of: silken albacore tuna on a salad, negi toro rolls (I like them! Do I have to be defensive about that?), rich little satchels of creamy uni, yellowtail (god, I'm salivating now), perfect little ama ebi, the accompanying shrimp head soup and fried shrimp head, ankimo (liver). The only thing that didn't stand up to par was the ankimo. It just didn't have the optimal flavor or texture, but i forgive them this off night (have had better there before).

I just sailed out of there, so happy and sated.

DUMPLING 10053.
Still tops in my book. I think I ate there 5 times in 2 weeks. Btw the 4 of us in my family, we usually got: veg dumplings, *3-ingredient dumpling (sea cucumber, shrimp, and meat), *the pork chop rice, the steamed spareribs with the fermented rice stuff on top, *the greens (absolute favorite, order this if you go to balance out your meal), *the egg rolls, the shrimp dumplings, *the appetizer pickled cabbage, maybe the appetizer soy tripe..we had more, but my brain forgets it in its drugged stupor. Note: starred items are particularly good.

I love this place. Mostly because you can order a balanced, clean , but flavorful meal there (I know people complain of the blandness of the food, but dangit, order multiple things! Diversify what's in front of you and you'll get flavor!) Their chili sauce is good too. P.S. You can order some to go. They sell the chili sauce individually and ladle it out of this ENORMOUS metal bucket.

P.S.S I don't get the furor over Din Tai Fung. It's good, but for regular eating, it seriously has no soul. And my parents live 5 minutes away. We chortle at the lines as we pass by. Since my mom has figured out how to replicate the appetizer, we find little need to stand with them folks. That line is ludicrous!

GOLDEN DELI. Or whatever that Vietnamese place is called on Las Tunas in the shopping center the Newport restaurant's in. Divine! I usually get the broken rice thing, but was just in the mood for some pho this time...and dug in. I can't even describe what the difference is between this manna and the Vietnamese food in NYC. It's a balance of sharp, perfectly on-point flavors and textures, that marry at the end to create a mouth-gasm. Things to get: the rice with pork, an egg omelette thing, pork slivers, etc (#96, i think); the noodle soups; the appetizer meats (your choice) wrapped in lettuce. Their dessert-y drinks are good too. I like the green frozen drink pictured on the back (It has, I think, mung bean, coconut milk, ice, green jello slivers, and red bean)

The place is clean too. We peeked in at the folks in the kitchen while we waited in line and give them thumbs up for some thorough cleansing of their raw greens.

BIFENGTANG. The newer location on Las Tunas. I haven't tried this place before, but it looked popular. Everyone seems to order the crab here, but I'm not terribly impressed with that dish: dry stir-fried but not terribly flavorful. For me, this place was more an interesting trip than a terribly tasty one. We got: the aforementioned crab, the sauteed fried oysters with cucumber, & the cold half-chicken with green parsley sauce. The sauteed oysters had too much breading/flour action going on, resulting in a bit of a viscuous experience, but otherwise, the flavor was fine. The chicken was...eh. Too cold and nothing special.

We almost made it to Dumpling House since I was determined to show my mom how cool Chowhound was (and produce some sort of culinary jewel near us in the SGV that she didn't know about)... but ah well, next time.

I'll report on the place next to Chang's Garden and the dim sum places some other time. Oh, and MASTRO'S! Jeepers, I had a great chowing trip.

In the meantime, if anyone knows of any other great places to eat in a 20 min drive radius from Pasadena, do pass it on. Wishing all chowhounders a great upcoming year..

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  1. i'm with you on 10053 - i love the place....and thank god, no wait ...parking ain't the best, but a small price to pay

    1. gen sushi s over rated in my book But its not badd...Ive been to better..example the one inside of little tokyo in downtown La...if you want dumplings try the one on baldwin...its n a plaza...sorry forgot the name..But I guess ppl can help you out there

      4 Replies
      1. re: Ptown909

        Din tai Fung?

        1. re: russkar

          Bah!

          Avoid Ding Tai Fung and its crowds and fey dumplings and xlb.

          Try Mei Long Village, J&J or Dragon Mark, all next to each other in the strip mall located at 301 W. Valley Blvd., San Gabriel.

          1. re: russkar

            ......is overrated.

            1. re: russkar

              Nope... think is what whlls said "Full House" its something with house and tofu..

          2. Full House in Arcadia is better than Bei Fung Tong

            I'm not sure I agree with the Dumpling House craze. The noodles are okay, and for the breakfast items, Yung Ho in Rosemead is much better.

            1 Reply
            1. re: WHills

              I had a weird experience at Dumpling House... we ordered hand pulled noodles and were served a bowl of obviously machine extruded ones.... perfectly even, tubular things. We complained to the old man who runs the place, and he insisted they were hand pulled. I showed him the perfect shape of the noodles, and he told us (in Chinese) that they "trim the fathers and sons" (meaning they trim the uneven ends). Aside from the fact that that seems a useless endeavor (the best part of hand pulled noodles is their imperfect texture and mouthfeel), what I want to know is what kind of knives they use to get rounded edges on their noodles!

              That weird experience put me off DH for good.

              Mr Taster

            2. Re Chinese food, I don't know if you live in Manhattan or one of the other parts of New York, but if you're comparing Manhattan Chinese food to San Gabriel Valley food it's kind of apples and oranges. San Gabriel Valley food is much better than what you get in Manhattan Chinatown, but it's also much better than L.A. Chinatown, and Manhattan Chinatown is better than L.A. Chinatown. And New York has Flushing, which is better than Manhattan Chinatown, though not as good as San Gabriel Valley, and which has good Taiwanese and other regional Chinese cuisines.

              1 Reply
              1. re: Chandavkl

                Yeah, well...I suppose it's unjust, but I'm comparing the 2 places I've lived the longest in and what's accessible to me from that point. That would be Manhattan (and its Chinatown) vs the SGV.

                Unfair, but that's what goes in my mouth.

              2. Around Pasadena...

                Bistro K
                Ritz Carlton (Dining Room)

                1. Rafie - Weren't you a fan of Saito? If not, it's very good sushi and worth a try. My current fave, and close to Pasadena is Z Sushi in Alhambra/San Marino. Sit with Ito-san and let him go. Great stuff and very reasonably $.

                  Cheers!

                  1. What does it mean for food to have or not have soul? Especially in the context of the restaurant industry, where food is mass-produced, more or less?

                    1. I think the people that complain of Din Tai Fung's "soulless" dumplings are are put off the very visible "assembly line" kitchen. I personally am mesmerized by it, and there's no other place which makes XLB dumplings with such delicate skin.

                      If you want that type of dumpling, whether you're in LA or China (where I ate copious amounts of XLB, including in Shanghai, and found not a single one with the gossamer-like qualities of DTF's dumpling skins) it appears that Din Tai Fung is the only game in town (or the world).

                      Mr Taster

                      1 Reply
                      1. re: Mr Taster

                        No, actually, I have no problems with the assembly line. If anything, that makes me appreciate the obvious work and skill that goes into making those dumplings.

                        When I say the shiao long bao there have no soul, I mean that it doesn't have a depth of flavor to it. Example: typical canned chicken soup versus real chicken stock. Perhaps it has to do with how little their dumplings are + how finely the ingredients are chopped + how thin and slight everything seems. I don't know, I'm no chef, I just know that the dumpling taste (though it has a fine skin) and appearance seems clinical.

                        No sway, no bounce, no ass....whether in song, dance or dumpling, it just got no SOUL!

                      2. If you're on Main St in Alhambra, try Yasmin - Great Malaysian food - you'll put all thoughts about dumplings on hold... 27 East Main Street...

                        1. They do make their own noodles at Dumpling House because I see them making it all the time. My parents went there a lot-they told me it was one of the first Chinese restaurants they discoved when they moved to Arcadia. Their green onion pancake is the best.
                          Marston's in Pasadena makes a great breakfast/ lunch. It's little though so it can be crowded and parking can be a pain sometimes. Oh, and there's Simbala though I'm sure you're aware of that because of Chang's Garden. My friend from NYU said she wished there was a place like Simbala in NYC

                          1. Rafie, next time you're in LA try Takumi, a brand new sushi joint in Little Tokyo that rivals Sushi Gen. Hiro from Sushi Gen is the head sushi chef.

                            http://www.chowhound.com/topics/36377...

                            1. Can you share tips on how to make Appetizer? I don't know what kind of tofu strips are in it but I love and crave Appetizer. Can you post to Home Cooking board and link. I'd be truly grateful.