New Orleans with Mom this weekend
My Mom (86) and I will be spending this coming (long) weekend in New Orleans. We will be staying at the Marriott downtown (on Canal Street), and will NOT have a car.
We are not late-night partiers by any stretch of the imagination (though we wouldn't mind catching a little of the music scene nearby the hotel), but do love good, local, interesting food of any kind, so would love some recommendations.
Of course I'll read through the boards and develop some conclusions independently, but it would be great to have a few convenient must-dos in mind for breakfast, lunch and dinner. A mix of fancy and casual, nearby and maybe a little more far-flung (if accessible to the car-free). If you were there for 4 nights, where would YOU go?
Thank you all for your help. Of course, despite all the suggestions, we went off in our own direction, and our time was not always our own. In order of preference (not counting hotel breakfasts):
Places I would recommend/return to:
- Stella! (Fancy and expensive but excellent.)
- Bayona (Also fancy, also excellent.)
- ACME (Fabulous oysters in a VERY casual noisy setting)
- Cafe Beignet (coffee unremarkable, but fresh beignets are worth coming back for)
- Brigsten's (disappointing to us, but perhaps we ordered badly or it's not our thing or it was an off night...)
- Bourbon House Seafood and Oyster Bar (fine, but unremarkable)
Again, thank you all.
definitely you should eat: a po'boy, at Galatoire's, muffaletta from Central can be picked up for the plane ride home if you don't mind everyone being jealous. Fiorella's is good neighborhood styling -the smothered cabbage for sure if it's on special- along with Maspero...remnants of when the Quarter was working-class.
Also, Acme. Touristy, but you're there, and so are the oysters. Get 'em raw or chargrilled, don't bother with the rest of the menu too much. Bayona if you're feeling fancy. Amelie has a beautiful courtyard and nicely thought out food + wine, plus some good people watching. Haven't tried Stanley (the Stella chef's brekky-lunch joint on Decatur) or Cochon, but both are on the list.
The Gambit (NO weekly) is a must for information and flavor.
If she can still walk a mile (my 80 something grandmother could when she came down to visit), any place in the quarter will be accessible. Mother's for breakfast, lunch or dinner would be fairly close by, and I've heard good things about Eat (on Dauphine, I believe) for breakfast. Of course, Cafe du Monde one day.
I like Johnny's po-boys in the quarter, and Remoulade has decent mid-priced food. I would go to Galatoire's, maybe for lunch instead of dinner. On the far side of the quarter are Coop's Place and Fiorella's (fried chicken) with good cheap food. Tujagues is a very cool old bar, though don't expect too much out of the food. Napoleon House, too, as recommended above.
If you take the streetcar up Canal (get the one that turns up Carrollton), Angelo Brocato's is a block off Canal on Carrollton. It's a 100 year old italian gelato and pastries place.
For music near your hotel, check out the bars at the Ritz. Jeremy Davenport (has toured with Harry Connick) plays on Fridays and Saturdays, I believe. No cover, but the drinks are kinda steep. And I believe he starts at 9 sharp, lots of people in the quarter don't get going until well after 10. A cab to Frenchman St. would not be very much, and there are a couple of places there that have music starting at 5 or 6 on Fridays.
If you want sandwiches for some meal, a couple of good choices. Napoleon House (on Chartres) used to have the best muffuletta, but unfortunately, that changed about 15 or 20 years ago (bummer). Some people still recommend it, but I was sadly disappointed the last 2 times I went and haven't returned in at least 10 years. But I still like the muff at Central Grocery (the home of the original muff, on Decatur). Also on Decatur, sandwiches at Cafe Maspero (man, I haven't been in too long!) I love their roast beef with swiss and gravy... yum. They have other good stuff, too, but I only know that from taking a bite from other people's plates. (I think they put some wonderfully addictive narcotic in that roast beef sandwich because it's all I can ever order there!)
Ernst Cafe has music and a good local flavor. Can't comment on the food. I don't think I've ever simply eaten there on a regular evening (usually if eating there it's during some special thing where they bring in trucks w/ crawfish, etc.) But if you want to sit and visit with some locals, absorb the atmosphere of the Warehouse District, I recommend Ernst.
And darned if I can't remember that funky little place near Poydras, Canal, the area you'll be... If I remember it, I'll repost!
A friend of ours SWEARS by breakfast at Petunia's, but I've never been.
And I ditto the Cafe du Monde post. It almost seems cliche, but it isn't. Their beignets are divine.
I think she would like Palace Cafe (on Canal) because it is a beautiful space and has good food (they have music sometimes - check to see times). Some people do not think the food is all that - but I liked it quite a bit.
Also Napoleon House is very old and she may enjoy some historical aspects of the space.
Thanks. I'll definitely take a look at those.
On reflection, I probably shouldn't have posted her age, because she's an 86-year-old in a 70-year-old's body with a 50-year-old's spirit. (Or maybe make that 20.) So no late nights, and not too much walking, but definitely no need to think old or conservative!