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Dec 28, 2006 11:49 AM

Everyday Venice

I'll be in Venice for three months starting March. My apartment is just off the Rialto markets and has a good kitchen so I'll be eating home quite a bit, but am looking for decent, not expensive eating for everyday meals, especially at places where it will be comfortable to eat alone. Plenty of time to explore and I'll report back any good finds but starting points will be helpful.

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  1. what a wonderful opportunity! hope you will report to us often.

    As I have before, Id highly recommend the Michele Scibilia book, Venezia Osterie e Dintorni, which qualifies as a bible of the worthy local restaurants and winebars from a venetian's standpoint,is aimed primarily at venetians, tho it also is published in English as Venice Eateries, and is updated frequently. Most of the bookstores have it, but I bought my copy (I suspect the Italian is updated quicker) from the street bookseller in the piazza of the Miracoli. It covers mostly moderate price places. The slowfood recommendations - on their site,, are also all in the moderate range.

    In addition to the market, I particularly like the Aliani gastronomia which is nearby (on Ruga Rialto, perhaps??) which has really nice cheese, oil, prepared foods, etc. Struggling to think of good places for bread, which has never been a strength in Venice - sadly, the supermarkets , the larger of which are really rather good, are taking over some of the food niches in Venice. There is a daily bakery near Aliani but I was not really impressed by its product. There is also a glitzy coffee purveyor on one of the little streets running between the ruga rialto and the grand canal - I will try to recall its name. Our favorite coffee bar/pasticceria is Tonolo, which is over on the other side of the Frari, and has delicious pastries but there are others too.

    5 Replies
    1. re: jen kalb

      "There is also a glitzy coffee purveyor on one of the little streets running between the ruga rialto and the grand canal - I will try to recall its name."

      Caffe del Doge, perhaps? That's down the street from where I'll be and I was wondering about whether it would be the place for my morning macchiatto. Thanks for the suggestions.

      1. re: jmatturr

        yes, thats the one. We just walked through one day - didnt try the coffee so would be interested in hearing what you think.

        1. re: jen kalb

          The coffee at the Doge is quite good I think but the breakfast pastries nothing exceptional. It's great virtue for me is that I enter it on the third step after I leave my building. Certainly good for a quick hit of espresso if you are in the neighborhood.

          1. re: jmatturr

            I also second Doge on Calle dei Cinque near the Rialto for excellent coffee. Actually their morning pastries are some of the best in Venice. They purchase frozen croissants, etc, from an excellent source, proof and bake them fresh. They are very buttery, flakey and the vanilla or chocolate filled ones are terrific.

      2. re: jen kalb

        Oh yes, do go to tonolo (calle san pantalon) for breakfast, they have delicious brioche and cream filled donuts (krapfen they call them I think). Just got back from venice and am still thinking of them.
        Generally that area, including Campo Santa marghertia and San Barnaba is a good area to hangout in. Campo Santa Margerita is great for watching the rythym of venetian life pass by-market in am, then moms with kids to school, then lunchtime restuarants opening up, then kids and mom after school, then the neighborhood having a spritz before dinner, then the whole campo livens up at night with university students and young people. Oddly enought there is a place in the campo that has good, almost new york style pizza by the slice for walking around food.

      3. Be sure to do a search for Venice on this site. You will find many, many prior helpful posts already here for you.

        1 Reply
        1. re: DavidT

          absolutely, and search "International" as well as Italy, since the older tips are there

        2. I have had many a meal alone in Venice and here are some places I have always felt comfortable....

          In the area around your apartment, Osteria Vivaldi is a nice place for a solo diner and the food is good and not expensive. Service can be a little slow though. It's on the Calle della Maddonneta on the way to Accademia. Good, inexpensive wines by the glass, too and a popular spot for the nightly pub crawl.

          If you want to splurge a little one night (and this place is not over the top, just a little more expensive than an every day place, for me at least) Antico Dolo on the Ruga Rialto is lovely for a solo diner.

          In Santa Croce, when it gets warmer (I believe they don't open until early April sometime) check out Il Refolo behind the church of San Giacomo dell Orio. I have always felt very welcome as a solo diner here, and the canalside setting is wonderful. Great pizza and also a chicken curry dish for when you want something besides Italian food.

          Other places I have dined often alone - Taverna San Trovaso in Dorsoduro, Casa Mia pizzeria off Campo SS Apostoli in Cannaregio (down the Calle Oca), the outdoor tables on the Grand Canal at Pizzeria Accademia under the Accademia Bridge... these are all good everyday places that won't be terribly expensive and where you'll feel good as a solo diner.

          I also like Osteria da Alberto in Cannaregio and La Zucca in Santa Croce but you must reserve at both, even as a solo diner.

          Hope this help.

          1. La Frasca sort of near the Gesuati by Fondamenta Nuova. Bar La Marca in Campiello Belle Viene near the erboria for great snacks and incredible moring coffee (they turn off their espresso machine at around noon so no caffe after. Do Mori for cicchetti, try the museto e fagioli. Vini da Gigio. Bancogiro.

            1. Vecio Fritolin, on Calle della Regina, near the Rialto fish market, is a charming little restaurant that specializes in wonderful fritto misto. The owner, Irina, makes you feel like you are in her home. The food, including the homemade bread, is wonderful.