Going to spend several days in le Marche. Any tips for delicious, local, traditional cuisine?
Not knowing where exactly you'll be in LM, I can nominate Pizzaria Teatro in Ascoli Piceno centro. Its a white tablecloth place and I've never seen a pizza come out of the kitchen. Good food and wine.
I've stayed at and eaten in the hotel atop Monte Conero, an hour south of Ancona. Its a converted monastery with, IMO, a good kitchen.
Now, if you're nearby in the spring or summer, exit the coast road south of Ancona at a place called Portonovo (or something like that). Theres a parking lot for hundreds of cars and a half dozen "beachy" restaurants. I think about half of the population of Le Marche is at this beach on Sunday afternoons. Wonderful mayhem.
I should also add that La Posada, in Rimini, has the best pizza I've ever had from its two wood burning ovens. This includes Brandi, Trianon and others in Napoli as well as Pepe's and Sally's in New Haven, Totonno's in Brooklyn, Una Pizza Napoletana, John's and Lombardi's in Manhatten and Patsy's in Harlem along with Santarpio's and Regina in the North End, Tacconelli's in Philly, De Lorenzo's in Trento (both of them!) and everywhere in Chicago. I've also been to Wells Brothers, Arcaro and Gemelli's, Al Forno, Two Amys and probably four or five hundred other places/joints/pizzarias.
La Posada. They have a wall of clippings, floor to ceiling of Italian newspapers and magazines all apparently raving about them. I don't speak Italian but I was impressed by the size of the wall.
And the pizza. Which we had on three successive nights. Even after dinner elsewhere! This WAS the best pizza I have ever had anywhere. I apologize for all of my name dropping (!) but I want to convey credibility: I've eaten a LOT of serious pizza in my life! This was the best, the absolute best!
I should also note that our first visit involved only a 15 minute wait for a table; the second night-a Friday-required an hour wait. Saturday, without a reservation and with a dinner elsewhere, we returned and, at eight o'clock, were told a two hour + wait (!). We got carryout!
La Posada, like La Puraza which I posted on above, are undiscovered treasures for Americans. Neither has been written in any English publication or website, here or in the U. K. Yet both are absolute landmarks in Rimini. For anyone reading this, trust me (!!!) go to either. And, if you really, really like it, then read my other posts and recommendations. At La Posada pay particular attention to the 12 Euro house red wine which is remarkable!!! It drinks like a US $35 red!