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Dec 22, 2006 09:46 PM

Samosa House, Fishkill NY

I saw an ad for this brand-new Indian take-out joint in today's Poughkeepsie Journal and decided to give it a try for lunch.

The chef/owner, Prakash Agarwal, describes his Samosa House as "Indian Vege Quick Serve Food." The 3-week old restaurant occupies an austere storefront in the CVS stripmall. Inside, the place resembles a catering operation, with a large open kitchen taking up most of the industrial-looking space. But don't be fooled by the lack of pretense.

I tried the $4.95 thali-style lunch special: two curries, basmati rice, whole wheat chapati bread, a pickle and a sweet. The curries of the day were a chhole (chick pea stew) and alu matar (potato and peas in a thick spicy tomato sauce). Both curries were superbly rendered -- greaseless and absolutely savory, pure Indian soul food. I would have liked to have been served a little more of the alu matar and a little less rice but that's a quibble for $4.95.

The pickle, a relish of garlic, cilantro and hot peppers (sum much greater than parts, sure I'm missing a few ingredients) was just as dazzling as the curries. Freshly prepared and original, a welcome departure from the same three condiments ubiquituous to so many Indian restaurants. Note: the pickle is served off to the side, on a table alongside the napkins and plastic utensils. Don't miss it.

The billowy chapati and workmanlike basmati abetted me in absorbing every drop of sauce on my plate, which I would have licked clean had I not been within eyeshot of a proper Indian couple lunching alongside me.

This is food of love, right down to the gulab jamun sweet, a featherlight fried pastryball served in a pool of warm honey and rosewater.

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  1. UPDATE - That was then this is now. Man. Can a place go downhill so suddenly? I don't know what's going on but I just had a disappointing lunch here. Cold apps, tired bread, blah curries. Bad day or just gone bad? Prakash!? What gives?

    5 Replies
    1. re: markp

      mark - red hook curry house or samosa house - which one should i go to?

      (we're trying a new indian place; for the pok ones, the one on route 9 is decent, one on main st by civic center is a little worse, kismat - ech).

      1. re: bob gaj

        i'm pretty sure samosa house is closed. there's a big for sale sign in the window...i like tanjore...they just opened a new branch on rt 9 in rhinebeck.

        my neighbor (who is from india) raved about bombay grill in beacon.

        1. re: bob gaj

          Bob - Red Hook Curry house is excellent IMHO. Go on one of the buffet nights (Sun and Tues) to get a feel.

          1. re: markp

            I just wish that the owner there could once in a while has a smile on his face.....

            1. re: moosesocks

              Moose - Mohammed does have a serious demeanor, but he's sweet and affable if you chat him up. He's 100 percent committed to the integrity of his food.