Leaving for Michoacán Saturday
My husband and I will be spending 12 days in Michoacán (he's from there), and I'm hoping for last minutes recs. I've read all posts related to Ixtapa/Zihua (where we'll be landing) and Pátzcuaro, but we'll also be hitting Coalcomán, Playa Azul, probably Uruapan, and all sorts of little towns in between. We've been to Morelia and Angahuán (saw the volcano) and other places in the past, but we won't be returning there this time.
We have virtually no itinerary, so we would be willing to hit recommended towns for food and/or sights. Food recs in Uruapan would be highly appreciated. Last time we were there, we had a harder time than usual finding the local cuisine.
And yes, we know about what's going on there . . .
I like to eat at the Mercado de Antojitos in Uruapan.
There's a restaurant on Emilio Carranza called, if I remember correctly, Café de Uruapan. It's about two blocks up the street from the plaza, on the left side of the street.
Be sure to spend part of a day in the national park in Uruapan: Parque Nacional Eduardo Ruiz. Just park and walk into the park; it's an unforgettable experience.
In Pátzcuaro, have breakfast with my friends Don Juan and Doña Ofelia at their corundas stand on the Basílica lawn. As you're facing the Basílica, it's the second-to-the-last stand on your right, on the sidewalk parallel to the Basílica. Don Juan's corundas are the gold standard--I've never eaten a better one, in 25 years of eating them. Slathered with salsa de chile perón and crema--oh man. Tell them that Cristina, la de Guadalajara, sent you. And don't miss the atole they make: zarzamora, guayaba, canela, vainilla, champurrado--my favorites are the first two, but they're all wonderful.
One night while you're in Pátzcuaro, go to Plaza Gertrudis Bocanegra (the plaza chica) and have enchiladas placeras. The best stand is directly in front of the market, just where the market meets the portales. Split an order--there's no way one person can eat a whole plateful. The aguas frescas are delicious there, or if you prefer, one of the employees will send someone to get beer for you.
Just for the ambience, go to Restaurante El Camino Real, on the highway going toward the turnoff to Tzintzuntzan. If they have rabbit on the menu (it might be an off-menu special--ask!), be sure to have it. I had it there in November and just swooned, it was so good.
Ice cream (nieve de garafa) on the plaza grande, under the portales. A stroll through the Pátzcuaro market. Atole de grano from the ladies on the sidewalk by the Gran Hotel (plaza chica). The lady closest to the hotel has the best.
Have a wonderful time.
Yesterday afternoon, 6 of us had comida at Restaurante El Camino Real. We all ordered Conejo Al Ajillo. It was cooked browner than I'd had previously, an improvement, actually, and absolutely delicious. It came with a small lettuce, tomato and onion salad, a pool of delicious house salsa of tomatoes, chiles and avocado, and a mound of cubed potatoes and carrots, seasoned with oregano and a dash of vinegar. Remember, this was the *main* course, after a Consome de Pollo con Verduras that was quite good, if a bit salty; and a plate of Arroz Canarios (!) con salchichas OR a simple yet rich macarrones con crema. The desserts, either arroz con leche or natas de zarzamora (really starch thicked blackberry puree) are token gestures, and skippable. The cost was 50 pesos per person; drinks are extra, although I think we could have had an agua fresca included but we chose cervezas and brandy with Coca.
My wife had to take the rest of her rabbit "para llevar".
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I believe that in the case of the nata de zarzamora at El Camino Real it means just 'blackberry-flavored pudding'. Think about the use of natillas to mean vanilla pudding and you'll know what I mean. And I agree with Anónimo, most of the time the desserts at El Camino Real are just a token. However, when gelatina con rompope is on the dessert list, don't miss it.
Anónimo, I'm sorrier than ever that I couldn't join your group for comida on Monday. Missing the pleasure of your company AND missing that conejo al ajillo are sad! The rabbit is the best thing I've eaten at El Camino Real--I'm glad it was on the menu for all of you.
And what in the world is arroz canarios?