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The Breakfast Club, Seattle

Tom Armitage Dec 18, 2006 09:18 PM

One of the most satisfying meals for me is a breakfast of sunny-side-up fresh eggs with flavorful dark orange yolks, the eggs cooked just enough to set the white, premium thick-sliced bacon cooked a little “wet” to preserve the flavor, and golden hash brown potatoes lightly crispy on the outside but moist inside. Add a light, fluffy fresh-baked buttermilk biscuit with good honey or homemade jam and I’m in heaven. It’s a simple meal, but one that focuses attention on the quality of the ingredients, particularly the eggs and bacon, and the ability of the restaurant not to ruin them by overcooking. I used to come somewhat close to this ideal breakfast at the Kingston Inn on the Kitsap Peninsula, but, alas, it burned down around a year ago or so. This morning, I decided to eat breakfast at The Breakfast Club, located at 12306 Lake City Way N.E. in Seattle. For some whimsical reason, I decided to try the Frisco Omelet instead of bacon and eggs. The omelet filling was a combination of bacon, avocado, zucchini, and Swiss cheese, and the omelet was topped with a house-made hollandaise sauce. The omelet was huge, but fell short of delicious. There is a tendency to overcook the eggs in huge overstuffed omelets in order to hold everything together. At The Breakfast Club, I asked for my eggs to be cooked as soft as possible, and to the restaurant’s credit, the cook complied and the texture of the eggs was just fine. Part of my disappointment may be with the general “more-is-better” approach to omelets at most American restaurants. The omelets are more about the filling than the eggs, and the number and quantity of ingredients in the fillings often means that the individual ingredients get lost in the cacophony of multiple flavors. Whatever the reason, I just didn’t think the filling of my Frisco Omelet was very flavorful, period. The hollandaise sauce likewise lacked flavor, and the overall effect was a dish where the texture of the eggs was okay, but nothing else about the omelet gave it a grade higher than “C.” The accompanying potatoes were described on the menu as “country hash brown potatoes.” They were very soft pre-cooked cubes of potatoes fried on the grill to add a crisp crustiness to them, not the grated potatoes that I associate with the name “hash browns.” I found the potatoes overly soft and mushy with an off flavor that I couldn’t quite identify. Perhaps something off in the oil used to cook them? The coffee was totally flavorless. The cost of the breakfast, with tax but without tip, was around $11.40. All in all, a pretty average experience. Certainly not a “destination restaurant” for breakfast lovers.

  1. g
    Glassman Dec 18, 2006 09:49 PM

    Tom, You might try The Pancake Chef located North of the Airport on International Blvd. (Hwy 99) Both pancakes and waffles made from scratch including the rare--and hard to find--"German Pancake". Their focus is entirely on breakfast and they close just after the lunch hour.

    1. l
      Lauren Dec 19, 2006 04:05 PM

      Tom, the first two sentences of your post describe my perfect breakfast. Alas, so far, I have not found all of the componants in one restaurant. But I keep trying!

      1. w
        Walters Dec 19, 2006 04:57 PM

        Tom, I suggest you try the Sunday brunch at the Kingfish Cafe.
        No other restaurant in this region can make biscuits like the Kingfish.

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