who lives in Rome?
I'll be moving to Rome in Jan. for about 6 mos and was just wondering who on this board lives in Rome? First question for you: I can't for the life of me remember what the name of the big market is down in Monteverde Nuovo, maybe around via ozanam? (does it have a name??) Second, I'd love to hear your recommendations for truly out of the way, cheap-o but to-die-for hidden places - restaurants or shops or bars or anything. Nothing from guidebooks, please - I have tons of those, and I already know about Volpetti (yum!) ... I'm interested in your neighborhood treasure troves! Example for reference: a friend last summer took me to Tutti Frutti in Testaccio. So Good!
Thanks so much!
I was just in Rome in October and my friend made a HUGE deal about staying until a Monday so we could hit the Porta Portese market, which is in Trastevere. The market was really full of crap (for the lack of a better word). There is a small section of antiques but for the most part it's a nightmare. My friend had gone twice previously and she said that this was not the same as she remembered.
But.... Later that day we walked around Rome and came across an amazing outdoor Bio-market. I think that it was close to La Bocca Della Vierta, but not too sure. The most amazing cheeses, bread, natural soaps, sauces. There is a pizza place I visited twice, close to the Vatican Museum, a block off the main street over there. Very popular with locals and students. I remember that they had a red & white stripped awning.
re: Payton Chicago
Yes porto portese is mostly crap, I still know people who go there, but they put a lot of time into knowing where the few stalls are that you might actually buy something.
Those Bio markets are mostly once a month, scattered around Rome, with pretty vague scheduling. Lucky you who stumbled across one. They're like that town in "Brigadoon" that appears and fades away in mysterious way.
I'm not aware of a market on Via Ozanam, but it might not be there every day. Some are, some aren't. The one in Testaccio is open every day except Sunday. The various vendors of non-food item show up at irregular intervals. There are a few lower priced places in Testaccio. Pizzaria Remo on the P.zza Santa Maria Liberatrice is about a cheap as it comes. Mind you, there is no atmosphere either - just a big rowdy Roman place. Da Felice is still a good value too. La Torricella (Via Torricelli,2) is also relatively inexpensive for good, basic food.
I live in Rome. I don't know Monteverde that well for the specific market you are talking about, but I can tell you that most neighborhoods have at least one of the kind of market you are talking about. Depending on the neighboorhood and street space they are either a couple of days a week or everyday. Some places, like testaccio and monti, via cola di rienzo in prati have big indoor markets.
Cheapo hidden gems I think are hard to come by here - either they are not cheap, not hidden, or not gems. Am looking forward to hearing what people say.
In your neighborhood though - La Gatta Mangione is one of the very best pizzerias in Rome (more neopolitan style than flat roman pizza) its not super duper cheap(nothing is in rome these days) but not expensive either). While its not a secret from Roman "foodies", I'm not sure if is been discovered by many guide books.
Their new sister pizzeria "Sforno" is out by Cinecitta - yum pizza calcio e pepe!
L'Acino Brillo is Garbatella is good too. Low mid priced bar and restuarant.
good luck and have fun
Meels, I think the market you are talking about is the flea market at Porta Portese on Sundays. I used to live across the river from where you are (sniff . . .sniff), but that was 5 years ago. I'm not sure that I would feel comfortable recommending places that I used to go to. A lot can change in 5 years.
hey thanks bro paul - I did like the porta portese market too when I lived there two summers ago - they have so much stuff!!!!! My host mother would always go antique-ing there. But the one I'm thinking of is a food market (sorry, shoulda been more specific), sorta outdoor/semi-permanent stalls, with veggie, meat, and cheese guys and also the occasional clothing/stereo equipment.