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Dec 10, 2006 06:17 PM

Morelia Visit

I spent one night and a few days in Morelia. When I return I will try Mirasols again and make a first trip Casa de la Calzada

I was really looking for a nice meal for the evening. My other food for the day had been 2 day old bakery goods, and a bran bar on the bus. Actually the bran bar was not too bad, flacky crust but some overly sweet pineapple paste.

The cathedral and square below were so lovely I thought I would try La Azotea Restaurante. Everyone seemed to be drinking and not eating. I got frustrated after a few minutes of not seeing any restaurant personnel and no one to seat people and left.

Fonda Las Mercedes (León Guzmán No. 47). The courtyard was beautiful. Open ceiling, plants, and a rock wall. Huitlacoche crepes with béarnaise sauce. Crepes seemed to have a mixture of the corn fungus and mushrooms. Attempt to mix French with local ingredients didn’t work for me, it seemed too rich. Margarita was terrible. Cheese bread was the best part of the meal. The French man with the restaurant told me afterwards he did not like the dish – a funny admission from a restaurant.

Mirasoles – nice tarascan soup. Seemed very similar to tortilla soup, but a thicker broth pureed beans. From the street it looked empty but there is an interior courtyard filled with diners. I tried to get back here for lunch to sample more of their cuisine, but did not open until 1pm and I needed to catch a bus out.

Cathedral Hotel restaurant – Nice place to sit and watch the city and have some breakfast.

I wanted to dine at Casa de la Calzada based on the write-ups but I never made it.

Dulces Morelianos de la Calle Real Av. Madero Oriente 440, much better selection and nicer than Mercado de Dulces

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  1. I wonder if Casa de La Calzada is still open, as I tried to access their website and it doesn't exist.

    1. Any updates on Morelia's dining scene? I am thinking of making a trip during a one week stay in Ixtapa. Any must try restaurants or special foods?

      10 Replies
      1. re: Mari

        Mari, I live in Morelia. My email address is in my profile. If you come, we can go for a meal. There are several excellent choices in Morelia.


        1. re: cristina

          Thank you Cristina. I will be there the week of March 1 and am trying to figure out how to get from Ixtapa to Morelia for the day. I will contact you closer to my departure date.

          1. re: Mari

            Mari, I think you might be biting off more than you can chew. Ixtapa is about four hours by car from Morelia...

            Nevertheless, by all means let me know if you do get here.


            1. re: cristina

              I love the Hotel Virrey de Mendoza - the bar is wonderful and the dining room very pretty.

              1. re: bronwen

                Bronwen, if you haven't been to Morelia recently, you'll be surprised to find some excellent choices in restaurants--restaurants even better than the Virrey de Mendoza. Although it's wonderful to sit under the portales at the Virrey on a Saturday evening and watch the lighting of the Cathedral, hear estudiantinas singing, and watch both locals and tourists stroll by, there are other places here to have a wonderful meal.

                One is the Best Western Hotel Casino, just across Avenida Madero from the Virrey. The new chef has been on board at the restaurant for about a year, the regional food is absolutely out of this world, and the service is very good indeed.

                Fonda Marceva is a local treasure, all but unknown to the foreign tourist.

                When you're hungry for a hamburger, Richard's is the place to go.

                For funk and fun and quesadillas fritas, it's La Inmaculada.

                Morelia's food is superb--you just have to know where to go.


                1. re: cristina

                  Good recommendations. As an All-American Hamburger loving guy, Richard's understands my needs and fills them well.


                  1. re: Anonimo

                    I used to go to Morelia all the time. For Hamburgers, I really loved the stand in front of the Post Office or the breakout stand from this one in front of the social security building. The last time I was there they were forced to move off the street and into a "local" but they stayed close to their original street "puesto." Make sure to grab some "chiles toreados" with your burger.

          2. re: cristina

            hi there christina...
            maybe you or anyone really, has some advice.
            im in morelia now, for the week and definitely would like some dinner spots. sadly we are here for the isde motorcycle race so our mornings and lunches are full, and im sick of the crap i have to eat. while i am surrounded by motor sport enthusiasts who dont really have a clue about food, i live in nyc and im traveling with the owners of the critical brooklyn food darling vinegar hill house - so we need good eats!
            i went to marisoles and while i enjoyed it, i found it to be a bit stuffy.
            we had breakfast once at hotel virrey and again, even though it was very touristy , it was still pleasant. however id love to have some traditional food that wasnt necessarily FINE DINING with white table cloths.

            1. re: animalchin

              Try Restaurante LU in the Best Western Casino hotel; extremely good.

              I also enjoyed Marceva quite a bit.

              1. re: animalchin

                Hey me!

                Let's see if we can get together while you're here for the ISDE. We might have some free time, if you do. I'd love to meet you and your traveling companions from Vinegar Hill House.

                There are better options than Los Mirasoles and the Virrey.