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Best markets for when we cook.

georgialou Dec 9, 2006 03:46 AM

I am going to Paris with my young adult daughter for a month (last week in Dec til end of Jan). We are both cooks. We have an apt rented in the lower 5th and would like some suggestions for food shopping. Will oysters still be everywhere? We are thinking of staying in and cooking on NYE. Are the markets still great in the winter? It has been many years since I have been-any help is appreciated. 1st post.

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  1. ChefJune RE: georgialou Dec 9, 2006 11:54 AM

    The market on the rue Mouffetard is excellent for shopping to cook! and the Café Mouffetard on the street is a great place to have breakfast... Their brioche and croissants are the stuff dreams are made of!

    1. Busk RE: georgialou Dec 9, 2006 01:19 PM

      Yes, oysters will still be there. In fact, this is the prime oyster-buying time. Markets are still good in winter. The best in my opinion are a bit far from you, but the market at Place Maubert is close enough. It's small but good. I live next to Richard Lenoir near the Bastille so that is where I shop (Thursdays and Sundays).

      3 Replies
      1. re: Busk
        An American Living in London RE: Busk Dec 10, 2006 07:52 PM

        I am staying in the Marais in a month. What stalls at Richard Lenoir would you recommend shopping for food and are there any other markets you could recommend near the Marais? Thank you for your help

        1. re: An American Living in London
          Busk RE: An American Living in London Dec 11, 2006 09:16 AM

          It's a large outdoor market. The Lorenzo seafood stall is good, but there are many nice stalls there.

          1. re: Busk
            An American Living in London RE: Busk Dec 11, 2006 11:27 AM

            Thank you for the info on Richard Lenoir. I will check it out when I visit Paris.

      2. g
        GG Mora RE: georgialou Dec 9, 2006 01:28 PM

        There's an excellent book on the markets of Paris called “Paris in a Basket”, by Nicole Aimee Meyer. It covers all the major and most minor markets of the city, organized by arrondissement. It has beautiful photographs, well-written and engaging text, maps, and some simple recipes. Includes locations, directions (metro stops) and hours/days of operation. *Highly* recommended.

        1. j
          Jer RE: georgialou Dec 10, 2006 02:23 AM

          I just returned from a two week trip and did alot of home cooking with wonderful results. The outdoor markets are filled with wonderful winter treasures and truffle season has just begun.

          As ChefJune mentioned, Mouffetard is wonderful and given your location is probably the closest of the outdoor markets. If you want to venture out for outdoor markets, there is also Rue Cler in the 7th, Rue Montorgeuil (at rue Rambuteau) in the 1st, Place d’Aligre in the 12th, and Rue Levis in the 17th all of which I found to be just wonderful.

          Also worth a visit given your location is Le Gran Epicurie next to Le Bon Marche in the 5th or 6th (metro: Babylone) which is a huge indoor artisinal food hall. Poilane at 8 Cherchi-Midi is near you and wonderful for baked breads. There are a number of Lenotres spread out through town which is great for picking something up on a night when you and your daughter are not in the mood to cook. Have fun!

          1 Reply
          1. re: Jer
            ChefJune RE: Jer Dec 12, 2006 01:55 PM

            On the rue St. Jacques, just south of rue Soufflot, there are a number of wonderful shops.. butcher, greengrocer, an appetizer place and a wonderful vietnamese takeout. that's not far from the rue Mouffetard...

          2. g
            georgialou RE: georgialou Dec 10, 2006 04:47 AM

            Thanks to everyone for your kind and helpful responses.

            1. SanseiDesigns RE: georgialou Dec 18, 2006 09:53 PM

              Check the references in Ina Gartner's cookbooks (Barefoot Contessa). She has recommendations for shopping, particularly with her recipes.

              1. ChefJune RE: georgialou Dec 19, 2006 03:36 PM

                I know it's not close to the rue Mouffetard, but the market on the Blvd Raspail is quite wonderful, especially on Fridays.

                They have lots of organic products, and amazing fish.

                1. p
                  poncho RE: georgialou Dec 20, 2006 01:12 AM

                  Paris in a Basket is a good book for learning about the markets. It's available in both French and English and even shows which days which markets are open.

                  If you're not on a budget, go to one of the markets that she give's 5 stars to, like in the 16th. (Raspail's good to, especially for spotting celebs on Sunday mornings.) For best quality/price, since you're in the "lower 5th", I'd go to Paris Store in the 13th.

                  1. s
                    sumi RE: georgialou Dec 20, 2006 09:55 PM

                    was just at the market on rue Mouffetard yesterday and there were tons of cockles St. Michel -- I'm sure I have the name mangled, but they were these very interesting, large shelled things.

                    1 Reply
                    1. re: sumi
                      poncho RE: sumi Dec 21, 2006 09:08 AM

                      I imagine you are referring to ormeaux {abalone]?

                    2. gumnaam RE: georgialou Dec 27, 2006 06:29 PM

                      I second (third?) the marche at Richard Lenoir. I lived near the Bastille for a while and visiting this market with my daughter was a great experience. The stall owners are very friendly, often give freebies to kids, and the choice of food is excellent. Fruits and Vegetables come from near and far (as far as Morocco), so it is a little different from the farmer's markets that we have here in New York and you can expect a full complement whatever the season. But the range is wide. The rue Mouffetard market is a bit smaller.

                      For cheese, bread, boulangerie items, you should go to a nearby fromagerie or boulangerie. A couple of visits and you'll be a regular. Parisien storekeepers are very nice to regulars and most are very quick to help you choose the right thing. Also, there is usually a local store that sells only fruits and vegetables and the quality is usually quite good. Shopping and cooking in Paris is a lot of fun and I envy you!

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