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Vienna Austria

b
bishopsbitter Dec 1, 2006 02:06 PM

Need help for a trip this month. Can anyone provide the definitive precis/list for chow in this seemingly hard-to-evaluate-for-food city.

Posts herein and elsewhere seem to have a lot of complex addresses and how to get there info, but not enough about the eats themselves.

Particular interests:

-"Only in Vienna" places
-Wurst and more wurst (especially blood sausage)
-Casual unpretentious but delicious
-Game, goose, "heavy" (German style I suppose)
-locals hangouts and locals dining traditions
-smoked and pickled fish
-Really *anything* other than where-every-tourist-must-go, places. I won't be going there.
-Dark hoppy ale

Thanks very much. This does not seem to be an easy city to pin down. I will post my findings in order to try to help the cause when I return.

Again, thank you for any help.

bb

p.s. I just went searching and realize I have another caveat:

*!!!!MUST NOT!!!!* be a place where "diners have the opportunity to listen to traditional songs performed by gypsy and Yugoslav musicians" :-)

ref: Beograd Restaurant info seen on the Web

  1. s
    Sturmi Dec 1, 2006 07:23 PM

    This is a tough question, and boy, are you right !! The Viennese LOVE to dine out, and they LOVE to keep the good places for themselves, and YES, there are even place worse than the Beograd, especially the "Heurigen" in Grinzing and Neustift...

    Now to your requests:
    Wurst: regular sausages can be found everywhere at small street kiosks. One of the better is the one in front of the Creditanstalt, or the one ("Leo") at Nussdorferstrasse/Guertel.
    There is also a new in-crowd place for wurstlovers: http://www.musikkiosk.at/

    Blutwurst: there is a new place specialising in offal: It is called Mezzo, and will have a special menue with all kind of offal every wednesday starting Jan 2007: http://www.mezzo.cc/
    Blutwurst may be available, but also liver, kidney, tripe etc...

    Blutwurst usually is bought from a butcher, and prepared at home. There are several butchers specializing in Blutwurst. We usually buy from Radatz (luxury butchery chain with many outlets including Naschmarkt). Blutwurst is also excellent at one of the original Heurigen places, our favorite one is in Soos (15 miles south of Vienna): http://www.weingutgrabnerfuchs.at/

    Game is now in season and served in all restaurants, everywhere. I would go to Eckel in Sievering, simply because I like all their Viennese classics (including Blutwurst).
    http://www.restauranteckel.at/0.htm

    Goose season has just ended. The Martinigansl is served around November 11. Some may serve also goose for Christmals dinner, but usually you are better of eating duck. I prefer the duck breast at Kuschker44, our local hang out (www.kutschker44.at

    )

    Pickled fish: wrong country. Go to Sweden !
    Well, there are a few places where they smoke trout or Alpine salmon, but these are not in Vienna...

    Hangouts: Viennese now prefer wine bars: Meinl am Graben has one below their supermarket, Wein & Co has several, all serve great food. Unger und Klein is a special one, with a great wine selection: http://www.ungerundklein.at/

    Inexpensive and typical Viennese Dining: all the places you have been reading here on chowhound: try Flein, Wolf, Finsterer Stern, Kuschker44, Gaumenspiel, Wild, Huth, Ubl, Czaak or Schilling (the last three are really old-fashioned classic "Beisl", and there are no tourists at Ubl or Schilling...). For detailed addresses, go to: http://www.falter.at/web/wwei/home.php

    Dark hoppy ale: Are you looking for Irish pubs? There are many around, but I am sure you would prefer some Austrian beer: http://www.7stern.at/en_index.htm

    And there are also a few old fashioned beer places around:
    http://www.zwoelf-apostelkeller.at/
    http://www.esterhazykeller.at/
    and http://www.goesser-bierklinik.at

    Hope this helps...

    Michael

    3 Replies
    1. re: Sturmi
      b
      bishopsbitter Dec 1, 2006 11:01 PM

      Michael,
      This is a great reply.
      Definitely want Austrian beer.
      Thank you so much!!! You picked up on exactly my problem, and have provided a great deal of "hope" for the visit.

      Mike

      1. re: bishopsbitter
        s
        Sturmi Dec 9, 2006 09:00 PM

        I really forgot one of the best places for goose, offal of any kind including blutwurst, and beer: 8 different beers from the tap !

        Zum Reznicek
        9. Reznicekgasse 10
        Tel: 01-317 91 40
        open 7 days per week from 12:00 to 23:00

        You will like it, but make a reservation, this place is popular !!

      2. re: Sturmi
        e
        eve Dec 5, 2006 11:40 PM

        thanks from another Vienna lover.

      3. s
        Steve Dec 6, 2006 02:38 AM

        The problem with the original post is that it pigeonholes Viennese food. I found Vienna to be an excellent city for a Chowhound: exciting, creative, very different from what you are used to, and affordable.

        But since I don't live there, I'm not sure if I can point you you in the right direction NOW. I can say that I enjoyed it when I experienced Viennese chefs with roots in tradition and an eye toward modernity. Hip, casual, and delicious. Maybe ask Michael (Sturmi) where he suggests for up-to-the-minute. Personally, I very much enjoyed Zum Finsteren Stern and Gasthaus Wild.

        1. s
          Sturmi Dec 6, 2006 06:54 AM

          Up to the minute: Right now all restaurants are heavily booked for Christmas parties, which are starting in November and last until December 22. Many restaurants will be closed for the holidays, and reopen December 27. Almost all will offer some fixed menu for New Years Eve.

          I agree with Steve that Vienna is a chow city. Some might be afraid about the language barrier, but nowadays most waiters/waitresses speak English quite fluently.

          I would recommend also to use one of the gourmet guides available for Vienna, especially "Wien, wie es isst", which just issued its 2007 edition (German).
          http://www.amazon.de/Wien-wie-isst-2007/dp/3854393709/sr=8-6/qid=1165391437/ref=sr_1_6/302-7423201-0284821?ie=UTF8&s=books

          From the same author, but from 2004: Viennas hot spots
          http://www.amazon.de/Viennas-Hot-Spot...

          Michael

          1. b
            Bob Copeland Dec 6, 2006 04:55 PM

            For afternoon pastry, try Demel's. It's evil.
            It's located at:
            1., Kohlmarkt 14U3: Herrengasse

            1. ballulah Dec 10, 2006 04:46 AM

              I'm sorry that I can't offer specifics, because I don't remember exactly where I ate in Vienna, but I will say this: I found it impossible to have a bad meal anywhere that I ate in all of Vienna. I fell in love with a chocolate torte that I found in something akin to a luncheonette.

              1 Reply
              1. re: ballulah
                s
                Steve Dec 10, 2006 09:53 PM

                Yes, it is possible to have a bad meal in Vienna. Avoid the Schonbrunner Stockl, part of the eastern gate to the Schonbrunn Palace. Typical tourist trap.

                However, even in difficult situations (major tourist destinations), one can eat extremely well if you are careful. Across from the Synagogue is Zum Kuchldrogoner, an otherwise avoidable restaurant where the specialty is rough handmade noodles that are terrific. Don't bother with the rest of the menu.

                On Neuer Markt is an Italian restaurant, Barbaro, with execrable pizza which everyone seems to be ordering. Go instead for the main dishes (I had the arctic char), and you can dine like a superstar.

              2. c
                chowseeker Dec 20, 2006 07:46 PM

                this is all great info -- i am leaving will be in vienna as of saturday night, only staying a few days, then off to elsewhere. sturmi (or anyone): of the places mentioned, any to particularly target or avoid since it is wintertime? p.s. i also note that xmas eve and xmas day are two of my days -- can i get in anywhere great on xmas eve night at this late date?

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