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Feb 15, 2005 04:10 PM

Valentine's Day at Incanto

  • r

Had a couple of great new pastas at Incanto last night: chickpea crespelle (crepes) stuffed with chard & pecorino drizzled with a very subtle mint sauce, and farro-semolina tagliatelle with vinegar-braised boar.

Another great new item, the cheese plate included some housemade cotognata (quince paste, aka membrillo) flavored with bergamot zest. WOW was that good. Their pastry chef's only 24, what's he going to be doing by the time he's 30?

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  1. Stupid question, Robert, but how do you eat quince paste? A bite of cheese, a bite of quince paste? How does it enhance the cheese eating experience? Are there specific cheeses that pair best with quince paste?

    I am assuming it is similar to Portuguese quince paste which is dried in pans and cut into squares. While I'm sure you don't just pick up the whole piece and gnaw on it, is it proper to cut it into small pieces with a knife and fork. What is qunice paste etiquette? Haven't tried it yet as I wasn't sure how to handle it.

    2 Replies
    1. re: Krys
      Robert Lauriston

      The classic combination is membrillo and Manchego or similar, they go very well together.

      Last night I didn't think the cotognata particularly went with either of the cheeses on the plate, so I just ate little bites. If I forgot to use a fork I hope no one was offended.

      1. re: Krys

        You can spread the quince paste like jam on a piece of bread and top it with cheese. Or if you're a fork and knife cheese eater, dab a bit on the piece of cheese you've speared.

        Favorite combo: manchego, serrano ham, and membrillo