turkey stock in advance
I think this is finally the Thanksgiving I get over my unreasonable and inexplicable avoidance of making homemade stock. Two questions/requests:
- a good recipe for homemade turkey stock that makes a good quantity (gravy for 15 person dinner)
- How far in advance can you make turkey stock? Can I freeze it to good effect?
You can modify any chicken stock recipe for turkey stock. I like to brown the parts first. And it freezes well.
I don't use a recipe. I just throw in some onion, carrots, celery, bay leaves and turkey parts. However much I can get into my stock pot. Cover with COLD water, bring to a boil and simmer very low for a day or so. Strain and enjoy.
If you did it right, when you put it in the fridge, it should congeal
Last year I had a big crowd for T'giving so I cooked a turkey a day ahead, removed the meat in large pieces to slice the next day, threw the bones, giblets and a few extra turkey parts from the market in a pot for stock. Like Davwud, I use an ad hoc recipe. I used the pan drippings to make a big batch of gravy so I didn't even have to worry about a roux when the house was filling up with people.
After I cooked the turkey on Thanksgiving, I added the gravy to the pan drippings with some extra stock and it was as good as any I've ever made - with virtually no fuss.
I add the extra stock to the de rigeur turkey and andouille gumbo or use it to make rice for dinner. I often serve dirty rice for Thanksgiving, using the giblets from the stockpot.
Turkey stock freezes well like any other stock so I don't see why you can't make it well ahead. Mine never congeals unless I use turkey parts. Browning the bones or parts makes a richer stock as JudiAU says but I generally don't bother if I'm using it for gravy. I have enough dirty pots and pans on holidays.
Most definitely make your turkey stock from scratch -- it isn't difficult at all. And it freezes perfectly well.
I am not a fan of a heavy, flour-thickened gravy myself, so a very rich turkey stock is really important. Remember that the stock is the basis of your gravy and, while you want to make it flavorful, you can always add to your gravy flavors from the basic stock.
For serving 16, I would make a minimum of stock from 5 lbs. of turkey parts (and, I would make more because it freezes an is great to add to soups, etc.) --
5 lbs. of turkey parts (wings and necks should be a good portion of the mix because they are rich and gelatinous and they are cheap)
5 large carrots
3 large onions
4 large stalks of celery
3 or 4 cloves of garlic
the stalks from a bunch of parsley
a small bunch of fresh thyme
1 TBL of black peppercorns
You can be practical and put the garlic, parsley, thyme and peppercorns in a bit of cheesecloth to make it easy to fish out of the stock (I actually use a coffee filter), but you can also just not worry about it since you will be straining the whole thing anyway.
Put the turkey parts in a roasting pan that can also go on top of the stove, and place in the oven at about 425F. Roast about 20 minutes, then add the carrots and onions, stir everything well, and continue to roast for another 25 minutes or so. You want the turkey parts to be dark golden brown and the veggies to be taking on brown spots.
Place everything into a large stockpot and add the remaining ingredients, plus about 2 cups of dry white wine and 5 quarts of water. Simmer for about 2 hours. Strain out the solids and refrigerate the broth. The next day, skim the solid fat off the top (and the stock will be more like jello, but that is good!).
Freeze your stock until you are ready to use it.
re: Terrie H.
1. Turkey necks have a gamey flavor that some people don't find suitable for stock. They're a lot like gizzards. Some people put gizzards in stock, some don't. I, personally, find necks too gamey. Wings will give you plenty of flavor and plenty of body by themselves.
2. A very very small percentage of chefs put garlic in poultry stock. Imo, it's way too overpowering and has no place in traditional gravy. The amount in this recipe is especially disconcerting. This isn't turkey stock, it's garlic soup.
3. White wine is fantastic in classic French sauces, but in Thanksgiving gravy, again... not something I'd add.
4. Poultry stock requires a minimum of 6 hours of simmering for maximum collagen extraction. For turkey wings, I'd go with 9 hours.
5. Although not classical, many chefs brown their poultry before making stock for a fuller, richer flavor. Browning vegetables, imo, is a huge faux pas, though. Roasted chicken notes=good, roasted veggie notes=overpowering and out of place. Roasted vegetables are for beef stock, not chicken.
6. Most importantly, 5 lb. of parts yields about 2-3 cups of concentrated stock suitable for gravy. Divide that by 16 and you've got 2-3 T. of gravy per person. That's nothing. Depending on how much your guests like gravy, you'll want anywhere from 1/2 C. to 1 C. per person. For 16 people, I'd simmer a minimum of 16 lb. of wings (in a very big stockpot). Running out of gravy at a Thanksgiving meal is, imo, unforgiveable.
Brown 16 lb of wings in the oven (400 for about 30 minutes is fine)
Add wings + drippings (deglaze pan with water) to huge stockpot (or two large stockpots), cover with water, bring to boil
Reduce heat, cover, simmer 9 hours
Add aromatics (onions, celery, carrots) during last 2 hours, if using (I don't)
Strain (you'll need a huge strainer and big bowl or another huge stockpot)
Return to heat and reduce stock to about 1/3 of original quantity (about 12 C.)- multiple stockpots help the stock reduce faster
Let cool at room temp until 145 deg., then place in an ice water bath (fill sink halfway with water/some ice)
Once relatively cool, carefully transfer to fridge, keeping level/not disturbing layer of fat collecting
Scrape the fat off the top of the gelled stock and freeze 3/4 C. separately
Freeze stock in baggies in 2 C. portions
Make a beige roux with 1 C. flour and 3/4 C. turkey fat
Add stock and slowly bring to a boil stirring constantly
Simmer for 1 minute stirring constantly
Reduce heat to the barest possible simmer and leave for 10-15 minutes whisking occassionally.
Add salt/pepper and, if necessary, add water to thin (or reduce to thicken)
Serve- gravy can be 'held' for as long as an hour at a bare simmer.
Reducing to 12 cups should give you about 9 cups gravy-ready stock and 3 cups fat.
I agree, running out of gravy is truly unforgivable.
Thanks for typing all this information out... This type of recipe is really what I was thinking of was involved in making homemade stock, which was why I've never done it. I'm pretty intimidated! Not to mention short of ginormous pots and strainers.
I might be back to the drawing board buying homemade stock from the local gourmet grocer.
Celeste, culinarily speaking, there's nothing better on this planet than homemade stock. It takes a lot of work, but, if done correctly, the work you put in comes back tenfold in a heavenly tasting gravy.
This being said, stock for gravy for, say, 4 people is an entirely different animal than for 15. Logistically speaking, gravy for 15 can be challenging. If you've never made stock before, I'm not sure this is the best way of getting your feet wet.
Start making stock for yourself this winter and by next fall, you'll be a pro.
To me, the work involved in making stock is all manual. Cutting, straining, that kinda stuff.
I can't tell you how much you're over thinking this. It's not intimidating at all. Just add some veggies to a bunch of turkey parts, simmer, strain, fridge, defat, Bob's your uncle.
Even if you don't do all that great a job, you'll be amazed at how good it is.
Scott, I'm with you, although I have found it better to do a double stock, creating my primary with mostly chicken feet and chicken and turkey wings, backs, etc., onions and leeks. The feet seems to break down completely in 3-4 hours. Then using that primary stock in place of water, I pretty closely follow the rest of your approach using turkey wings, thighs and legs that have been browned.
A final difference is that I find a more deeply colored roux using clarified butter works better, providing a deeper color and toastier notes in the final sauce (gravy). Also, a note for celeste, if you use a roux to thicken, you need to skim the fat and flour protein scum that will accumulate on the surface.