340531 Mon Nov 06 23:44:17 -0800 2006 0 49 France 0 2001783 Tea at Laduree One of the highlights of the trip. The first time we did this, we were seated upstairs, which, based on our second experience, I think is the non-smoking section. Definitely a plus. Downstairs was quite smoky; upstairs not a whiff. We sat in lavish, ornate sofas and perused the 12 or so pages of delicacies each more decadent than the last. We tasted the ice cream with macarons—here the macarons are stuffed not with butter cream but with a generous slathering of ice cream and served atop a big scoop, flavor of your choice. A lovely, delicious, perfect thing for a hot September afternoon. We also tasted a religieuse that was light and impossibly rich at the same time, a completely over the top chocolate confection, a giant rose macaron, and a Mont Blanc—spaghetti-like extrusions of sweetened chestnut puree over whipped cream. Accompanied by iced coffee and tea, we were all on a blissful sugar and caffeine high for the rest of the day! Berthillon ice cream I’m sure I needn’t go on at length as this ice cream has been well-covered on this board and in every guide book. I’ll leave it at this: I am not a fan of chocolate ice cream. If I want chocolate I want dark chocolate and ice cream has too much, well, cream. I tried the chocolate ice cream reluctantly here after hearing rave after rave. It was like a chocolate truffle. But frozen. But only enough to hold it together. It touches your tongue and turns to dark chocolate fondue. But better. The caramel beurre sale was so good I had to stop walking and lean against a wall just to wrap my head around the intensity and richness of it. Go. More than once. Skip meals if need be to make room. Pierre Herme Voted best canele in Paris by our very dedicated group of travelers, who tasted every canele we came across. Just like a hand-held crème brulee—deep caramelized sugar taste on the outside, creamy goodness inside. Also the most interesting macaron flavors. Olive oil was especially and surprisingly tasty. A l’Etoile d’Or A very out of the way chocolate shop near the Moulin Rouge, and a complete contrast to the other shops we visited (Pierre Herme, Patrick Roger, Pierre Marcolini). Those places are immaculate temples to chocolate. This place is an insane jumble of incredible goodies, including Bernachon chocolate bars which are available in exactly two places: the Bernachon shop in Lyon, and here. Denise Acabo, the owner, is just as insane as her shop, and just as delightful. A bundle of pig-tailed enthusiasm, it didn’t matter at all that she speaks almost no English and we almost no French. We walked out with 100 euros worth of chocolate and almost immediately regretted not having spent more. Worth a special trip. Mon Nov 06 23:44:17 -0800 2006 23560 Pistou