Le Boeuf à la Mode is Historic
Le Boeuf à la Mode is a journey back in time to old-style New York dining. It is a quiet neighborhood French white-tablecloth bistro located at 539 East 81st St., between York and East End Ave. The seating is unusually spacious for Manhattan, and the service is warm and helpful with no pretentiousness. They serve both red and white wines in round, fat, somewhat heavy goblets instead of modern thin stems. They adorn the tables with bouquets of yellow roses. Huge 10-foot paintings on the walls depict country and Paris scenes; one is of Le Boeuf, who also appears as a sculpture over the bar. At a recent dinner for four, we tried several appetizers. Mussels Mariniere ($9) were superb, served with minced parsley, garlic, and tomatoes in a wine sauce. The bits of green and red in a yellow broth made a most pretty picture. The classic Onion Soup ($9.50) was less successful, with perhaps too much wine in the broth, disintegrating onions, and a tasteless crust of gruyere. Beet Salad with Celery Remoulade ($8.50) was very fresh and good. The Leek and Potato potage was tasty, properly pureed and thick. Entrees were similarly admired. Calfs Liver Sauteed with Onions ($23.50) was delicious. Grilled Salmon with Dijon Sauce ($23.50) was good. Lamb Chops Provencale ($36.50) were perfectly grilled. The Roast Duck with Seasonal Fruit Sauce and Wild Rice ($25.50) showed that retro-style duck preparation still works, in today’s age of rare grilled duck breasts and duck legs confit. It was dense and a touch chewy, with intensely good flavor and crispy skin. Dessert service was too slow for our schedule so we did not stay for that. An utterly congenial experience with a relaxed and mellow tone, this place is the perfect antidote when you’ve had an overdose of buzz and hype - whether in a restaurant or just generally. It typifies the classic meaning of the word “restaurant” – a place to be restored.
Reynold
Nov 06, 2006 02:48PM
I love that you talked about Le Boeuf. My family has been going there for over 30 years (and the same family has owned the restaurant)and we still find it to be one of the nicest places in the city. We have gone there for many family events and love the atmosphere. I know the "rap" on it is that it is a place for the older crowd but who cares. You can have a civil conversation with your table without shouting. And unless they have changed it recently, they have an amazing prix fixe dinner. The food is simple, straightforward and we are always amazed that we go elsewhere to celebrate bdays, anniversaries, etc. Kudos to Le Boeuf for staying the course.
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Actually went to Le Boeuf to celebrate my birthday, and it was the perfect place with its warm, calm, unruffled, accommodating, no-hard-edges atmosphere--and excellent food to boot. Here are a few pictures taken Nov. 5, 2006:
1. Interior (time exposure, no flash)
2. Lamb chops
3. Roast duck
4. Mussels
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Back to Le Boeuf for a repeat visit. The food is tastier than ever. We had delicious duck and salmon dishes. Coming in after a holiday run on their wine list, we had to settle for our third choice of red wine. It proved to be way tasty and next time we’ll ask for it first – a Croix de Reverdi Bordeaux. Two of the appetizers were standouts: a paté with picture-perfect embellishment and a rabbit sausage with peppercorns (see photos). The service was friendly as always.
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