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Nov 4, 2006 02:10 AM

Royal Deli & Bakery in Salinas

When we were in downtown Monterey recently, I stopped by two bakeries and my mother turned her nose up at both of them as too expensive. Instead she asked me to take her to the new place in Salinas she'd heard about.

Opened less than four months ago, Royal Deli and Bakery has the spot on Park Row that was occupied for decades by Betty's Pies. It's only a block away from the house I grew up in and is directly across the parking lot from Peninsula Pastry, the other French action in town.

Owner Alejandro Castellanos worked for various French and German restaurants and bakers before striking out on his own. He's baking from scratch, using plenty of butter and cream, and I was impressed by the variety of pastries in the case. In addition to baked goods, sandwiches, salads and quiches are available for a light meal at one of the tables.

After a few trips here, our favorite item is the big coconut macaroon, $1.75. Crunchy crust, light, very chewy, moist, and good balance of sweetness to not hide the coconut flavor under too much sugar. My mom hates the price, but even she conceeds that it's worth it. I'm not a fan of dried coconut, and even I like this cookie.

Pecan tart has a nice buttery crust, but is rather simple. Danish are very good and made in two sizes with fresh fruit. Chocolate brownie, $1.75, is the fudgey style with just a bit of chewy resistance, studded with nuts, and glazed with chocolate frosting. Croissant, $1.10, has a homely handmade look, on the large side, and could use more layers but is made with good butter. Raspberry filled butter cookie sandwiches, 3/$1, are the value item here.

The owner seemed proudest of a special, individual-sized cake, shown in the photo linked below. He hasn't been able to decide on a name for it yet, but it's a goodie. The buttery layers of genoise are filled with lime mousseline and fresh raspberries, then crowned with a layer of marzipan. The cake was a bit dry around the edges from sitting in the case too long. Yet, this was a lovely concept and deserves an "A" for effort, the silkiness of the mousseline, and loads of sophistication for under $3.

Image of Royal Deli facade and special cake -

Royal Deli & Bakery
952 Park Row
Salinas 93901
Closed Sundays

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    1. Thanks for the heads-up on the new bakery, I'll have to try it next time I'm in town. I still can't believe that Betty's and Pollyanna are gone . . . they ruled during my entire childhood.

      1 Reply
      1. re: TerriL

        Hopefully we'll hear a few more reports for the place. My sister went in there last Saturday to get a coconut macaroon for my mom, not knowing I had posted about it. But they were already gone. The counter woman said, "We don't know what's going on. People keep coming in asking for the macaroons. Someone bought them all this morning, and all our croissants disappeared too. And, they want 'special cake', we can make them up with notice, but we didn't have enough today." Feedback, 'hounds?

        Here's a photo of the coconut macaroon and also thumbprint cookies. The jam-filled cookies have a tender, crumbly butter cookie base. They're 3/$1.

      2. Thanksgiving Day I had a chance to try a slice of the pecan tart again. It looked beautiful with full halves of pecans layered on the top, but it still seems too simple in taste to me.

        Today my mom went in while I waited in the car and came out with a slice of cake for an afternoon snack. I thought it might be chocolate pave' due the smooth ganache top and many layers. But "duh", the treble clef scrolled on the top probably means it's Opera cake. This is quite lovely with three layers of almond flecked sponge cake, some buttecream, and the thickish layer of chocolate ganache in the middle. It's just a little too sweet for me, and I wish it had a stronger espresso signature to balance. However, at $2.75 for a rectangular slice, we're happy campers.

        Royal Deli & Bakery
        952 Park Row, Salinas, CA

        1. My mother had an appointment nearby giving me a chance to drop in again. I bought two cookies: Mexican wedding and a cinnamon swirl, total of $1. Both nice. I noticed capirotada in the case, has anyone tried it?

          2 Replies
          1. re: Melanie Wong

            I'm going there to look for marbled rye sliced bread, thnx Mel. W. capirotada? not had that since i was a kid

          2. And now French macarons have come to Salinas, mini size, a new item here. I'd like a bit more filling but the texture of the cookie halves is quite good.