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Bebo in Crystal City--first impressions

l
LindaMc Oct 23, 2006 12:04 PM

Had dinner at Roberto Donna's new place in Crystal City, Bebo, on Saturday night. It just opened last Thursday.

I had understood that it was going to be more casual and down-home than Galileo, but the space was pretty large and more formal-looking than I had expected. Prices, though, were very reasonable--under $20, often well under, for most main courses, salads in the single digits, side dishes for $3.

There were a few glitches in the service, not unexpected for the third night, but the food was superb. I had the Ceasar salad and fried rabbit with artichokes and scallions. Both were absolutely delicious--great anchovy flavor and parmesan with the salad, and the rabbit and veg were perfectly fried and not at all greasy. I was skeptical of the orange mayonnaise that came on the side, but it was terrific. A side order of polenta was excellent. My husband had a salad of roasted tomatoes and mozzarella, which was also delicious, and pasta with a ragu made of pork ribs, great hearty long-cooked flavor. There are good wines by the glass, also very reasonable. I had a very tasty Barbera for $7/glass; the waiter had recommended it and it was perfect for my meal.

For dessert we shared a hazelnut cake with hazelnut ice cream and caramel sauce. The presentation was not great as the cake was very crumbly, almost like a shortbread, but we didn't care because it tasted so good.

Chowhounds in the vicinity should definitely check this out.

  1. Bill on Capitol Hill Oct 30, 2006 02:41 AM

    My wife and I tried Bebo on Saturday night. We liked some of the food a lot; other items were fine but a little disappointing. Ambiance (the Oyamel space) is nice, though sort of a mismatch for the homey food. Prices are a tremendous value.

    Service, I'm afraid, was really, really bad, as in long waits to be acknowledged both at the bar and at our table; pretty much every drink order initially forgotten; bartender acknowledged putting a wrong wine on the ticket but said the price was the same when actually it was a 50-cent overcharge; at the table my initial wine choice (chosen for appetizer) arrived not only after the appetizer arrived but also after the main course arrived (it took forever to begin with and then was the wrong wine -- IGT white instead of IGT red, and when corrected the waiter denied knowing IGT made a red, never mind the menu); no olive oil or butter was offered for the bread; my "well, substitute y if x is unavailable" response to an "I'm not sure there's any x left" from the waiter resulted in a runner's bringing y -- never a confirmation from the waiter.

    As bad as all that sounds, we're generally forgiving anyway and we know that the place is new -- and of course we knew it was a Saturday night.

    For appetizers, I had veal carpaccio (this was the y when the x -- octopus special -- did not appear). It was ... fine. I wouldn't order it again. JD had a lovely-sounding polenta with soft cheese and pancetta. All was fine, though JD left the too-pungent-for-her cheese (an ordering mistake, though the menu might have been a little more specific).

    She got the spaghetti carbonara. Like so many restaurant carbonaras, it uses cream, which is not part of a classic carbonara. In this case it was apparently a whipping cream that somehow left the dish with an almost dessert-like bright vanilla note -- I wish I were expert enough to pinpoint exactly what was going on (a tiny pinch of nutmeg, maybe?), but it was a characteristic I've never noticed in a carbonara before. I wish restaurants would just make the dish the right way, but perhaps the cream offers a stability factor that makes it safer and easier -- and, in this case, it wasn't an altogether unpleasant difference.

    I opted for a pasta with pork-rib ragu that I had heard good things about. My experience wasn't so great. The pasta, I forget the name, was basically large shells cut up. The sauce was meaty and ... fine, but atop that oddly dissheveled pasta I couldn't help think of some frozen entrees I've had over the years. To be fair, it was a bad first impression that improved a little as I got to the chunks of meat at the bottom of the place. I'm looking forward to trying the regular old bolognese and the all'amatriciana.

    That IGT rosso, by the way, was really, really nice. The bar-menu descriptions of the by-the-glass wines are pretty odd across the board, and for this wine is stressed the youngness. Again, I'm not an expert, but for me it stood up quite well to the meaty pasta dish. The second glass, a chianti, was not nearly as good. (I ordered this from a distinguished-looking woman who came around to see how everyone was doing -- is there a Mrs. Donna who does this? -- during one of the waiter's long absences. Yes, yes, we should have said something, but we're generally averse to that and, as I said, the place needs a chance to get settled.) There are a lot of by-the-glass choices, some as cheap as $5.

    The desserts were a highlight. JD got panna cotta with berry sauce; I got the poached pear with red-wine sauce and cinnamon bavarian cream. A knife would have been nice for the latter, but ... mmm.

    The tab for two appetizers, two pasta entrees, two desserts, a large bottle of San Pellegrino plus one club soda, and two glasses of wine: in the low $60s. That's just a great price point that we just don't see often in this area, and so we're going to be back in search of some more reliable pasta choices and, with luck, better service.

    (Also: We didn't try any of the bar-only snacks -- we would have been there all night, if our other dealings with the bartender were any indication -- but many of them sounded better than the real menu's appetizer choices, and most of them were exceedingly inexpensive.)

    1. MsDiPesto Nov 3, 2006 05:29 PM

      I'm just found out I'm going there tomorrow night for the first time with 6 other family members. I was glad to read your description so I know what to watch out for. Maybe I'll get the Amitriciana.

      2 Replies
      1. re: MsDiPesto
        Lydia R Nov 3, 2006 07:26 PM

        Here are links to their dinner, bar and dessert menus. Their pricing is evolving. Currently desserts are $6. Pasta portions lend themselves to leftovers (based on my two visits, YMMV).

        http://bebotrattoria.com/menus/dinner.php
        http://bebotrattoria.com/menus/bar.php
        http://bebotrattoria.com/menus/desser...

        1. re: Lydia R
          MsDiPesto Nov 6, 2006 02:53 PM

          Grazie multo to Lydia R for those menu links, I never would have found them on my own!!

      2. MsDiPesto Nov 6, 2006 02:47 PM

        Well, I'm pleased to say that I look forward to returning to Bebo without hesitation. I liked the high ceilinged space, and I was amazed to find that my hard-of-hearing father in law had no trouble communicating, which often determines where we dine with him.

        Service seems to have been smoothed out, and we experienced none of the traumas that the "early adapters" have reported here and on other food boards. Waiters and runners alike were polite, attentive, and any requests, such as for silverware, were swiftly met.

        Even though the appetizers are not really designed for sharing with as many people as we had, I managed to taste several.
        I just had to try the triumvarate of Lardo, Salsiccia e Carne Cruda, and while I liked the beef tartare with the olive oil and cured lard, I didn't much care for the sausage, something in the flavor seemed odd. I'm not really a seafood eater, but I did get a taste of the Calimari, and as one of my dining companions said, it tasted "of the sea" with it's light breading. The Fried Mozzarella didn't impress me either, too many calories that you could indulge otherwise.

        At the urging of our companions, a few of us ordered the Caesar Salad. Who knew what fun a salad could be, with it's vertical arrangement, like a potted plant? And delicious to boot!

        On to the entrees! I had the risotto, and it was the celebrated Gorgonzola and Pistachio version. I finished the entire bowl!
        Brother in Law had the Deep Fried Rabbit which was a lovely golden brown and satisfied him very well. Mom in law had the Sea Bass, filleted at the table. Even my totally non-fish eating spouse said it was good! Dad in law enjoyed his Spagetti alla Carbonara, which was not at all like the usual gloppy, creamy stuff you get in most restaurants. Our lovely niece polished off the Polpette (meatballs), while her mom had the Lasagnette, which I intend to have on my next visit! The only low point was the Bucatini all' Amatriciana, that my spouse ordered and reported to be somewhat blander than expected.
        Dessert followed. I had the Affogato al Caffe, and while I am guilty of eating all that did not melt, the only thing that prevented me from spooning up the melted part mixed with espresso was the distinct, and unwelcome (for me) hazelnut flavor that they need to mention in the menu. Other desserts ordered were the Tiramisu (wish I had ordered that!), Poached Pears, and Panna Cotta. No complaints about those!

        Now the amazing part: all this food, several bottles of still water, and four bottles of wine (three different reds and a white) came to just over $400 with tip!

        The reinvention of Crystal City as a dining and entertainment destination is considerably boosted by the addition of Bebo, and I have to wonder if Roberto Donna will ever bother to reopen Galileo, now that the era of expense account restaurants is drawing to a close. I'm planning my next visit!

        1. Mississippi Snopes Nov 15, 2006 11:00 PM

          My wife and I tried the "small plates" at the bar at Bebo on Sunday night and the food was very good and amazingly cheap, and the wines were excellent values at $5-$7 a glass. The bartenders were still learning the menu (and open about it), but they were highly entertaining -- one of them could be a stand-up comedian. We had a great time and we'll definitely be back.

          1. d
            Dakota Guy Nov 16, 2006 11:56 AM

            We ate at the bar Friday night and I think it is the way to go unless you are looking for a more formal dining experince. The small plate menu and the main menu are avalable at the bar. At a table, only the main menu is available. We ordered from both at the bar. I especially recommend the calamari from the small plate menu and the cannellini beans from the main menu [it is a side dish and amazingly good].

            1. j
              Jule Nov 17, 2006 11:13 PM

              I had dinner there last night and our waiter was very efficient and pleasant-I wonder if we were the lucky ones, however. One of the tables near us got up and abruptly left after about 10 minutes. I had the lardo as a first course and I admit that the lardo was not really to my liking (now, I've never had it before so perhaps it's not my thing). The chopped raw beef and the veal sausage that were also on the plate were very, very good (and I usually shy away from raw meat). Risotto last night was squah and sausage and while it was tasty, I thought that the rice was a tad on the firm side. Had I any room left in my stomach, I could have eaten several portions of the fried rabbit.

              1. r
                Roe Panella Nov 19, 2006 10:37 PM

                On Friday Nov 17th I enjoyed a lovely dinner at Bebo. Though the room is big in volume the ochre walls and soft lights make its warmly inviting. The pizza oven at the entrance was almost a work of art with its pastel mosaic exterior. We were seated in the first booth, which was perfect to view the bar and entire room and for taking pictures. I called Alyssa earlier to make sure photos would be ok.

                From the beginning our service was thoughtful, professional and “in the background”
                We decided to share everything, of course and began with an evening special
                Grilled Baby Octopus with Cannellini Bean Salad and EVOO - luscious and meltingly tender under a green herb oil and resting above a perfectly seasoned warm bean salad. Next, came another menu special
                “Vitello Tonnato” – Thinly Sliced Roasted Veal with Tuna Sauce, Capers, and Frisee Salad – the veal was paper thin and the sauce had almost a mustard taste that was very pleasant. For the pasta course we ordered from the reglar menu
                Lasagnette con Ragu’ di Carne e Besciamella – homemade thin noodles layered with a well flavored sauce the picked up a hint of sweetness from the béchamel. The portions were all very generous hardly leaving room for the
                Grilled Whole Branzino served with Salmoriglio Sauce. The fish had beautiful grillmarks and was expertly filleted at table side. The green herb infused sauce complimented the natural sweetness of the fish.

                Our server got so excited about the picture taking that he directed a few other servers to our table so that I could snap some of his favorites. Three of them are shown in my linked http://share.shutterfly.com/action/welcome?sid=8AbNWzZm2ZtWUG&notag=1
                slide show. The reconstructed Ceasar salad is particularly interesting.

                The Barolo by the glass was perfect for me as I don’t care for white wine.
                With little room for desert I considered the hazelnut cake, but passed. I think there will be plenty more opportunities desert in the near future.

                Sorry, I don't know how to make this url/link active - suggestions welcomed. Please copy and paste the url in your address box and go, then view as a slide show with captions.

                http://share.shutterfly.com/action/we...

                Bravo! Roberto

                1 Reply
                1. re: Roe Panella
                  s
                  Steve Nov 20, 2006 08:28 PM

                  The photos look good enough to eat! I notice that the Caesar Salad looks very much like the one in a crouton vase served at Mendocino Grille in Georgetown.

                2. j
                  Jim Zurer Nov 21, 2006 09:48 PM

                  I had lunch at Bebo today....and was quite impressed. I had the grilled luganega sausage with a side of broccoli rabe--the sausage was delicious (and a huge portion) and the vegetables were very nicely done. My companions both had the roast pork special....too much rosemary for me...but they liked it. Service was good and I think the space worked well--but I found the booths very uncomfortable and was glad to move to a table.

                  Wines by the glass were good and reasonably priced....

                  I look forward to a return visit.

                  I ran into Roe who was also having lunch there today...how was your lunch?

                  1. dctoflorence Dec 5, 2006 09:16 PM

                    Just know, this place is a trattoria, and not a ristorante... Don't expect Babbo food at Bebo prices.

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