Taste in Hillcrest
Paul Bertolli is coming to the Taste Cheese Shop in SD
Paul was the former Chez Pannisse/Olivettos chef and co-author of Alice Waters' cookbooks has gotten about his new venture Fra'mani Salumi. He'll be discussing and sampling his line of salamis and sausages at Taste Artisan Cheese & Gourmet Shop on Tuesday 10/17 at 2pm. FYI, Taste is the only place in SD currently offering Fra'mani.
> Taste is located at 1243 1/2 University Ave in Hillcrest (Next to Wine Steals) and on the web at www.TasteCheese.com.
It was really great meeting Bertolli. His genuine commitment to producing an honest product really showed. As is de riguer for the food revolution that the likes of Alice Waters and Bertolli has started, he paid homage to the source of his main ingredient, the pork, and seemed to know the smallest operational details of the farm he souces from. He even came armed with a photobook of pictures of the pigs and the environment that they are raised in. He also paid homage to his grandfather, who made a sopresetta that he mentioned both in his talk at Taste as well as in his book.
His products are truly incredible. I ended up taking home 2 ofthe small salumis and 1 salumi gentile, which must be about a yard long. I wonder if he'll eventually have to make concessions with the size of the product for it to really be viable in the specialty marketplace.
In reality, though, he advises to treat it like the living product that it is, continually going through it's natural changes. So rather than arresting it's development via refrigerated storage, he recommends hanging it under wine cellar-like conditions, (in both humidity and temperature), and let it naturally form a mold on the cut end. In this way even a product of this size may make sense for the American consumer, to the extent that he can feel confident enough to leave out cured meats in the same fashion as is done all over in Europe. (Though given our weather it's probably feasible to do only during the winter season...)
What a great scoop! This is sure to be a can't miss event.
It must also be mentioned that he is also the author of "Cooking by Hand", a passionate and lovingly written book on his approach and philosophy on food, ingredients, friends and family, and time-honored traditions. It's much more than a cookbook, it's a volume that has enough narrative in it that one can find many things to read away from the kitchen.
His approach is very respectful of the ingredients and to traditional techniques. His Fra'mani operation grows out of this same philosophy and unflinching commiment to excellence.