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Oct 13, 2006 02:33 PM

burgundy with grilled venison and roast suckling pig?

do you think i could pair an old red burgundy with grilled venison and roask suckling pig? going to a nice restaurant tonight, which happens to have an impressive, if intimidating, list of bourgogne reds. i did a little research, but since these are a bit out of my everyday price range, its hard to make up my mind, i tried to go with the years supposed to have been reliably good in the region:

on the expensive side,...

Mazis-Chambertin, Armand Rousseau, 1995
Blagny, "La Picce Sous Le Bois," Robert Ampeau, 1989

or on the less expensive side,....

Cote de Beaune-Villages, Leroy, 1996
Chambolle-Musigny, "Charmes," B. Amiot, 1996
Bourgogne, J.M. Boillot, 1996
Cornas, Eric Durand, 1995
Côte-Rôtie, "La Chavaroche," Bernard Levet, 1996

please let me know if you think i should go with another wine altogether! btw, the wine list of the restaurant is here:


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  1. for a more "gamey" meat such as venison, i would lean more towards a southern rhone varietal. a gigondas comes to mind. they tend to have a spicy/wild animal quality to them that pairs well with meats such as venison and wild boar. it should be fine with the suckling pig as well.

    i would also consider a brunello di montalcino. this restaurant has very good prices for brunellos, especially for their '97s and under (at least compared to the prices here in boston). have it decanted and let it sit while you have a cocktail (or another bottle of wine!). leave enough to enjoy with a cheese and fruit plate at the end of your meal and you'll be in heaven!

    have fun!

    1. oh thank you so much rebs, that is fantastic advice! its probably going to be a 1997 brunello -- castelgiocondo or uccelliera, decanted over a little aperitif. can't wait...

      1 Reply
      1. re: thegenia

        Your first inclination that Burgundy goes great with game was spot on. Rebs may prefer Gigondas or Brunello, and there's no doubt that they would both work well, but Burgundy is a perfect match for venison.

        I didn't even ck out the link, but the ones you mention are pretty serious, if all a bit on the young side. I notice you said "old Burgundy", believe me, they are all very young, too young for my taste. Still, I might try any of them in a restaurant. You do know of course that Cornas and Cote Rotie are from the Northern Rhone, not Burgundy. But still good choices.

        That Blagny, La Piece Sous le Bois (the piece under the wood), is an interesting vineyard. It tastes more like Cote de Nuits than Cote de Beaune, in spite of being stuck between Puligny and Meursault.

        The big name is the Rousseau of course. He's a big time star, plus it's grand cru. Chambolle Charmes is aptly named - it really is charming. So remember that if you're thinking of pairing it with something big. Even the A.C. Bourgogne from Jean-Marc Boillot is pretty young. I have it in the cellar and have been ignoring it. I'm just starting to drink his '90 of that cuvee.

        Given that list, I would probably lean to the Blagny, since it's an '89, it should be drinking pretty well right now, but would still benefit from more aging. 2 months ago I brought a couple Blagnys from the same vineyard to taste side by side and they were both showing very young, Matrot and Pernot.

      2. If they've got it on the list, try a Lemberger (also known as Blaufrankisch - ask the Sommelier!)

        1. thank you very much for all the great advice. i ended up having a 1997 Brunello di Montalcino, Castelgiocondo, which i enjoyed a lot! it grew beautifully over the course of the meal. incidentally, it also seemed like a good value for a 1997 brunello in a restaurant. in general, the appetizers (Roasted sweet corn soup with lobster and leeks as well as a sweetbreads special) were excellent, while the mains merely very good. next time i will go easy on the food and plan to drink some, if not all(!) of the suggestions you made. thank you again!