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off to Italy next week

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Months of planning, finally happening next week. Florence, Venice and Rome.

In Rome, we will be staying in the Hotel Aventino, in the neighborhood same name. Anyone familiar with that area and its restaurants and trattorias? Testaccio is nearby--any recs there or in Trastevere? (we have been warned against going to high-end places in Rome by more than one friend). Thanks.

Charlie

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  1. I used to live in that neighborhood five years ago and can say that you are very lucky! There are many good places in Testaccio. At the bottom of the hill from the hotel is Perilli on the Via Marmorata, a little faded these days, but still good, hearty Roman food. Their carbonara is a classic. On the parallel streetbehind, Via Luca della Robbia there are two places that are OK - "Ne Arte ne Parte" at #15 and "Da Bucatino" #84. Both are typical Roman - nothing fancy. Pizzeria Remo on the Piazza Testaccio is the real deal - loud,loud, loud and no pretense, but good pizza. On the piccolo Aventino across the Viale Aventino is Al Callarello behind the church of San Saba, also decent Roman fare, but best enjoyed in good weather when you can sit outside. I might think of a few more.

    1. i posted this on someone elses italy.....

      in florence, go to piazza santo spirito. there's one side that has a market on the corner(sorry i am horrible with names of places), then a restaurant with seating just outside. go to that restaurant. there's another one past the gelato place with seating on the other side of the sidewalk, dont go there. or around the corner on the other side of the mini market os a sandwich place. cheap~!!!!!

      ******the best sandwiches of all time:

      The Oil Shoppe- you have to go to this place! cheap too! 3Euros!!!! its on Via San Edigio. OH MAN!!! go on the backside of the DUomo, and go toward the hospital, pass the hospital,toward/amost to the end of the street and you'll see a line out the door usually. its on the same side as the hospital! its incredible....

      when you get to the front of the line, they ask you which bread. the square wheat one goes fast, and its yummie, but the focaccia is incredible. the baguette is nice also. then they has you which meat. they have about 20+ different meats to choose from. then tey slice the meat for you and then they ask you which "vegetables"....these are the choices i remember:

      arugula
      lettuce-over there its cabbage
      tomato
      sun dried tomato
      white onion
      olives
      eggplant
      mushrooms
      corn
      red bell peppers (roasted)
      artichoke
      THEN CHEESE.......

      smoked gouda
      fresh asiago
      smoked asiago
      goat cheese
      parmesean
      3 different kinds of mozzarella
      (there are more, i know it, but i cant remember off the top of my head)

      THEN SPREADS......
      you can have them put just olive oil and its like 30yr old balsamic or......

      my favorite: apple mustard (it has a little spicy kick to it)
      pesto
      black truffle

      so, anything on the sandwich you like, with one choice of meat, and its incredible. for only 3 Euros, all the american students (like me) knew and knows about this place. the owner is this large italian man (i think he's italian ) and he's also the teacher at the Culinary Institute of Florence which is where you can also take day cooking lessons as a tourist!!!!!
      please, go to the sandwich place!!!!! lemme know!!!!

      OHHH!!! and gelato. i love this place on the arno. its called La Carraia the address is P.zza N Sauro, 25r. its amazing. have fun!!! let me know! i am so jealous!

      1. We ate in an adorable little trattoria in Florence a few years ago, that we sort of
        happened upon accidentally. Possible THE BEST bistecca florentina we've ever had!
        It's called Ristorante Il Guscio, at 49 Via dell'Orto. It's somewhere off the street the
        Pitti Palace is on. There's also an enoteca that we really liked right across the street from
        the Pitti Palace. Great Nobile de Montepulciano!

        In Rome, we ate at Il Palaccio, and had a great meal with great service. Definitely not
        a traditional restaurant, but if you feel like an adventure in foam on food, here's your spot.
        Also in Travastere, Enotecca Ferrara is fabulous....especially the entotecca side.
        Have fun!