some old bangkok notes
- modernist Oct 9, 2006 02:59 AM
i just thought i'd throw in an email i wrote for a friend a while back. its mainly about yeowarat, other favorite spots are the late night crab noodles and the cute mango sticky rice girl on sukhumvit 36 across from thong lor.
the amazing tom yam minced pork noodles on sukhumvit soi 24(it could be 26 but im pretty sure its 24, its the second spot on your right-i usually get them wet with sen lek noodles) and you have to order the side of fried fish skin. its ridiculously good.
most of my favorite spots in suan ploo have moved or disappeared but thats a good spot for local style dining too. bottom line is you cant really go wrong!
there are some secret spots that a food writer friend made me promise not to tell anoyone about so ive excluded that. sorry!
its not formatted cuz it came straight from my email so my apologies. its kinda hard to read:
so bangkok has a strong chinese influence so its strongest in thai chinese style cooking.
i had trouble finding southern thai stuff (much more intense curries)usually youll find it at markets or some little lady with bags of it that shes cooked for the day until she sells out.
i like esarn (northern thai/lao food) papaya salad, fried chicken wings, grilled fatty pork, larb that sort of thing.
the seafoods great too, ideally you'd go to the beach, but you can go to yeowarat (chinatown) and get big ass grilled shrimp. yeowarats also the place where people go to eat birds nest and sharks fin soup but i have the feeling youre probably not going to be eating much of that. theres a place called seafood som boon. there are two branches. (one is in silom - this is where koizumi eats) the other is on ratchada road, just past emmanuelle on the left hand side. right in the heart of all the high end sex/massage joints. some of them are like going
into bellagio! i dont know if girls are allowed in, but maybe try to cop a look. its quite a sight. everyone orders the crab in curry sauce its called something like (poo pong ka ree)
theres a dude in yeowarat that makes great crispy pork, fat rolled rice noodle soup in a super peppery broth. as you walk into yeowarart (assuming youre coming from the sukhumvit side) hell be on your left. its sidewalk action look for a fat short dude with a crew cut, about 55 years old, chopping up crispy pork, its pretty much right in the heart of yeowarat. he rules. (note: his son operates another rolled noodle stand across the street but its not as good in my opinion)
oh yeah, on your way there (before getting to the crispy pork guy), theres a woman in a truck full of durian, also on your left hand side. (note: night time only) she does the high end shit. long stem small fruits, but intense congnac flavors. eat with mangosteen to balance out the "heat" of the durian. typically its eaten less ripe than say in singapore. i forgot the name of the strain.
there are all sorts of fresh fruit juices there too.
after you eat at the crispy pork rolled noodle guy, cross the street and back track a little bit. go into the first street and walk away from yeowarat perpindicularly you will pass a seafood noodle guy on your left i think. at the end of the street there are a couple of precooked food vendors (lots of plates of food you eat with rice) pass them and cross the street. its kind of a shortish street and it curves off to the left. stay on the right hand side. about five stores on the right hand side is an oyster omlette place that rocks. old chinese dude rocking the omlettes day and night cooking with hard wood.(one of my single favorite dishes in bangkok, fresh small oysters)
other favorite dishes are poo dong (raw marinated chili crab with
garlic and basil) i dont know your ability to eat spicy but it can get pretty hot. might want to start saying "pet nit noy (little spicy)" and work your way up from there. in a similar taste vein is goong nam pla, which is raw marinated shrimp in fish sauce with garlic, mint and raw bitter melon slices. theres a place that serves this in thong lo, which is where a lot of people go eat after clubbing in thong lo. its called 55 porchana. they do both dishes. i wouldnt say its the best,
but its good. its a porridge place. hot plate sizzling beef is also popular here. there are better places but i dont know how to tell you to get there. i like eating the thai spicy salads (yam) with oyster, or fried fish stomach, or squid or fried crispy fish.
where is your apt by the way?
basically the old town is where all the og hardcore stuff is.
sukhumvit is sort of the newer nouveau riche area. the stuff is good, but not really knock your socks off. bottom line, even mediocre thai food is pretty rad. most younger generation thai kids only wanna hang out around sukhumvit, shop at malls, go to clubs and eat around there. if you can score finding some hardcore chowhounds youll be happy. i had trouble finding it. i hear italian is quite good in bangkok although i rarely ate it.
i could go on and on but ill never leave my computer. i wish i was there to eat with you guys! have fun.