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Expensive Food with Nonexistent Decor - Done in L.A.?

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A thought occurred to me when I heard about Matsuhisa moving into L'Orangerie's space. Is the idea of paying large quantities of money for food (however good) in crappy decor (Nozawa notwithstanding) no longer acceptable in L.A.? Sasabune has certainy upgraded.

For lack of a better description, the 'decor' number on the Zagat guide seems to be getting higher billing of late in L.A. (Cut, Katsuya especially).

Is anyone else noticing this? And are there still Nozawa-style places (e.g. expensive food, ghetto-chic decor) other than Nozawa left?

Not sure where I'm going with this, but just a thought.

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