FOUND: Home Style Vermicelli @ S&T Hong Kong Seafood (SF)
- Melanie Wong Oct 1, 2006 12:17 AM
Tuesday I had lunch with my parents at S&T Hong Kong Seafood on Noriega. They'd enjoyed it so much last time and I wanted a known quantity to avoid a Fook Yuen-like disaster that my mother is still talking about. At a little after 1pm, the place was still busy and nearly full.
On the noodle and jook menu, I noticed a Home (house?) style vermicelli with the same character as Mul's request and ordered it.
My mother wasn't happy about this, since she claims that in every restaurant version she's had the fine rice stick noodles (mei fun) are broken into bits. But she soon came around when it was served. The vermicelli had a nice resiliency to them and were not too broken up. Just lightly colored from the wok and natural juices, they were sauteed with shrimp, juicy strips of chicken, jellyfish (!), a little pork, scrambled egg, and "silver and gold" (plucked bean sprouts and yellow leeks). Also some slivers of onion, that were as sweet and crisp as we'd had in the chow fun last time. The gestalt of this dish was refinement and lightness with nary a brush of oil on the plate. It was a bit undersalted, but this was easily remedied with a splash of the delicious seasoned soy sauces that accompanied our other dishes.
Lunch images -
From the $1.79 Chinese menu (see prior thread for translation), we ordered the calamari again and the Teochew style braised tofu. The calamari was overdone this time and we pushed it aside. The tofu was splendid. Two rectangles with a crusty fried crust were cut into three's, then doused with a beautifully seasoned soy sauce. The insides were creamy and custardy. I was glad we'd ordered the vermicelli to be able to use up all the sauce.
Roast duck, $5, was pretty good. Freshly roasted, the skin was glossy and crisp. The meat was quite succulent but a bit tough for my parents. The candied soy beans were a little too hard too. But the saucing was delicious, as well as the yellow plum condiment served on the side, and this is well worth the price.
Har gao, $2.80, had better, fresher flavor than last time. However, they stuck together in the steamer and were somewhat oversteamed. Hom sui gok (deep fried meat dumpling), $2.20, were only so-so, too doughy and solid in the middle with too little filling.
The boon tong gao (sharks fin dumpling in soup), $5, was as excellent as I remembered it. On this cool day, the double-boiled soup was a warming tonic and the serving size for this item was large enough for each of us to have a rice bowl full.
S&T Hong Kong Seafood
2588 Noriega St. (33rd