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russkar Sep 30, 2006 02:08 PM

Gourmet Mag Top 50 Restaurants, Los Angeles

Gourmet Magazine's top 50 Restaurants in the USA was just released. Restaurants located in LA are:
SPAGO #4
PROVIDENCE #35
URASAWA #38

  1. a
    alison Oct 1, 2006 01:30 AM

    I apoligize.

    The article does say "in order".

    http://www.epicurious.com/gourmet/fea...

    1. r
      revets2 Sep 30, 2006 09:17 PM

      they are all ranked and numbered in the october issue or perhaps i don't understand your post. can you please clarify?

      three of the top five are in california! maybe l.a. rated so high because ruth was here for such a long time. i was surprised at the number of restaurants in texas. i don't think trotters should have been ranked as high as it was.

      did you also see the taiwan branch of din tai fung featured in the article on taiwan?

      i must agree. alinea is the best restaurant in the country...perhaps the world.

      1. a
        alison Sep 30, 2006 08:29 PM

        These are not in any particular order on the list. Please read the article again.

        1. s
          smashcutpictures Sep 30, 2006 03:48 PM

          I agree. High-end, foodrobot propaganda. How about Sona, Hungry Cat, Shima, AOC, Cora's somebody help me...

          1. r
            RicRios Sep 30, 2006 02:28 PM

            More on the subject:

            http://www.chowhound.com/topics/show/...

            1. w
              Walters Sep 30, 2006 02:17 PM

              Spago is the 4th best restaurant in America? It must be those great canned soups.

              4 Replies
              1. re: Walters
                Veggietales Sep 30, 2006 03:34 PM

                YOu must expand on your canned soup experience. Such hyperbole when it's farthest from the truth.

                1. re: Walters
                  omotosando Oct 1, 2006 02:12 AM

                  I don't know whether or not they use canned soups at Spago, but I have to say that I have never ever had a meal there that I thought was great. The restaurant is perfectly pleasant and out of towners in particular like being taken there because it seems so "L.A." to them, and even if you are nobody like me, Wolfgang Puck may come over to your table to say hello (which impresses those aforementioned out-of-towners), but I have just never had a great or memorable meal there. Perhaps it's because I'm more of a fish person than a meat person and they just don't know what to do with fish or maybe it's because the restaurant really is nothing special food-wise.

                  1. re: omotosando
                    russkar Oct 1, 2006 02:51 AM

                    Have you ever ordered a Tasting Menu there? It's their speciality. I can't believe you won't be overwhelmed when you finally experience one, some of the finest food in the USA. I'm not an Out of Towner and I can tell you that SPAGO BH is filled with Locals all the time. Below is a basic Tasting menu enjoyed by some Hounds a couple of years ago. Yes , they are all locals.

                    Several Amuse-Bouches
                    -------------

                    Tuna tartare in sweet black and brown sesame
                    cone

                    This is the signature Spago appetizer. I was
                    struck by the texture of the cone: it didn't
                    seem to contain any flour, so it had a very
                    delicate soft crunch. I would guess it's made
                    out of caramelized sugar, miso and sesame paste
                    with sesame seeds -- maybe a little rice flour
                    as well.

                    Foie gras mousse on kumquat tart

                    I thought the sweet and sour kick from the
                    kumquat almost overpowered the foie gras mousse,
                    but others at the table really loved it.

                    Smoked salmon on lemon-scented blini with creme
                    fraiche

                    The blini batter was made with lemon zest,
                    yielding nice light lemon overtones.

                    Fava bean bruschetta wrapped in lardon

                    This dish was visually very cool. The pureed
                    fava beans contributed a really saturated green
                    veiled by the translucent lardon wrapper.

                    "Pastrami-cured" foie gras terrine on toast,
                    sandwich style

                    The pastrami-style spices work amazingly well
                    with the rich foie gras. There's a tang from the
                    peppercorns that's met by the deep savory rush
                    of the liver.

                    Bacon confit en croute

                    Oh, man. Bacon in rich crumbly pastry.

                    Wine: Billecarte-Salmon Brut Rose Champagne

                    Dishes
                    ------

                    Crumbless crab cake with basil aioli and salsa
                    Wine: Costa del Vento (Timorasso grape)

                    The aioli was dolloped along the side of the
                    plate in a row of little dots. The crab cake
                    itself was intense. There was pretty much just
                    lightly-sauteed crab meat and nothing else. The
                    salsa, aioli and microgreens scattered atop it
                    provided seasoning.

                    Austrian white asparagus with fava beans and
                    tomatoes Lobster-asparagus soup with caramelized
                    shallots
                    Wine: Lorimer Gruener Veltliner (Austria) 2002

                    A very thoughtful two-parter: a mini-"Iron Chef"
                    white asparagus battle. The soup was ultratasty
                    asparagus essence tinged with seafood flavor and
                    the sweet chewiness of the shallots. The whole
                    asparagus was really a salad -- "redolent of
                    springtime," as I might say if I felt especially
                    pompous. The fava beans were whole, lightly
                    cooked. There were small wedges of heirloom
                    tomato. There were also very sugary wedges of
                    beet.

                    Hudson Valley foie gras with black cherries and
                    morels in balsamic vinegar reduction
                    Wine: Chateau Raymond Sauterne 2001
                    Wine (BYOB table): Suduiraut Sauterne 1997

                    A superb, superb piece of foie gras succulently
                    betrothed to the cherries and mushrooms. The
                    cherries were such a great foil to the foie gras
                    they almost rendered the Sauterne superfluous.
                    Almost.

                    Pan-seared skate with Fruits de Mer and tomato
                    broth
                    Wine: Alsace Riesling 2001

                    A nice, understated, refreshingly ocean-y fish
                    course.

                    Sweet pea agnolotti stuffed with mascarpone
                    Wine: Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru 2002

                    Tiny, delicate pasta shells bursting with pea
                    essence (the mascarpone must have been mixed
                    with pea puree to make the filling) served
                    alongside fresh baby peas.

                    Squab breast and bacon-wrapped leg with carrots
                    and ramps
                    Wine: Bucklin Old Hill Ranch Zinfandel 2001

                    I thought these butter-pat-sized slices of
                    pigeon breast -- rich, gamy, and thoroughly
                    umami-drenched by their reduction sauce -- were
                    amazing. Until I tried the leg. The crispy
                    Applewood-smoked bacon wrapped around the tender
                    leg meat just took the back of my head off. The
                    carrots and zingy ramps brought me back down to
                    earth. *woo!* said, "what a dish! Our favorite
                    of the lunch!"

                    Rib-eye steak with Armagnac peppercorn sauce and
                    fontina-laced pureed potatoes
                    Wine: Arbios Cabernet 1999

                    This was an add-on course requested by the BYOB
                    table. *woo!* again: "Had to have SOME beef
                    with all the GIGANTIC reds that we brought ...
                    what else is new?" A perfectly-cooked piece of
                    beef. The potatoes were amazingly thick, rich,
                    and sticky. The waiters served them in a special
                    mixing vessel and stirred them before serving.
                    You could have cemented bricks with it, but it
                    was sublime! The cheese permeated every cell of
                    those potatoes.

                    Dessert
                    -------

                    Assorted Cheeses including one Epoisse

                    Wine: Graham's 20-year-old Tawny Port

                    Stone fruit (peach, nectarine, et al) cobbler
                    served with buttermilk ice cream and blueberries

                    Coffee

                    Unfortunately I couldn't stay for the cheese or
                    dessert! So I can't report on it. I will say
                    that they wrapped up some petits fours for me
                    and they were delicious.

                    The BYOB Wines (an excerpt)
                    ---------------------------

                    2001 (?) Pillar Rock
                    Rayas white
                    D2
                    2001 Colgin
                    1995 Chateau Lafite Rothschild
                    1990 Lynch Bages

                    Cost
                    ----

                    I have to admit, we blew out the normal cost
                    structure for this lunch what with our extra
                    courses and our corkage fees and all. However, I
                    have been to a Spago Tasting Menu dinner where
                    we stuck with the original plan and the bill
                    came out in the realm of the sane. So I'm going
                    to list the sane prices here.

                    Tasting Menu
                    $85 + $15 (18% tip) + $7 tax = $107

                    Tasting Menu with Wines
                    $135 + $24 (18% tip) + $11 tax = $170

                    Tasting Menu with and without Wines,
                    averaged for two people (each couple splits
                    each glass of wine)
                    $110 + $20 (18% tip) + $9 tax = $137

                    Final Words
                    -----------

                    Here's what I personally like about Spago. No
                    matter how rarefied or high-flying the dishes
                    get, they are always grounded by some earthy
                    (or oceany) element. It might be a truffle or
                    other mushroom, a root vegetable, a gamy meat or
                    a briny fish -- somehow they keep you connected
                    to the source. I'm not sure if this is Wolfgang
                    Puck's contribution or Lee Hefter's or some
                    combination thereof, but it's what makes this
                    place a true Chowhound destination. Why?
                    Because the earthiness, the pungent quality, is
                    the base of the craving that forms in your
                    memory. I like to think that this is the
                    Austrian influence working at a deep level in
                    this cuisine, and in my opinion it's what makes
                    Spago unique.

                    1. re: omotosando
                      chica Oct 1, 2006 06:07 AM

                      I agree with the above. The tasting menu is disproportionately exquisite to LA cuisine. It's unbeatable. People at neighboring tables were eyeing the food jealously and wished out loud, "I should have gotten the tasting menu!"

                      What I love about Spago, in addition to its food, is the service. Some may say it is haughty or what not, but I have always received the best. Whether or not Wolfgang himself is there. He's a very nice man, btw. During the tasting, for example, I asked if I could have black truffles (I was craving this throughout the season). They said yes and innovated a delicious risotto, generously topped with truffles. I had asked for black truffles at Melisse and got a blatant no. Another example -- I got extra vanilla bean ice cream at the end of one of my other meals, just because! Moreover, they never cease to replenish my drinks, unlike many other places where I have to personally request. I always get the requested tables, like a booth for lunch. And the food always comes out just like we ask.

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