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December in Bavaria / Austria on a budget!

s
swingprof Sep 19, 2006 06:18 PM

So this is my challenge -- We are going to try to spend a week in the Bavaria region of Germany and possibly also Austria, during the Christmas season. The trick is not to break the bank on this excusion. To that end, I am enlisting World-Travelling Chowhounds or natives of those areas to help me find good, not-too-expensive places to eat. We are big on local snacks and small-meal foods, with the occasional big ol' sit-down meal thrown in from time to time. Mostly this trip is for seeing lovely things in very cold air and be surrounded by Christmassy stuff. But food, as ever, makes for such lovely memories. And any Seasonally-Related specialties would be appreciated...

Anyway, HELP!

Thanks in advance, everyone!

  1. s
    swingprof Oct 3, 2006 07:27 PM

    Thanks, everyone! These are EXACTLY the sort of things I am looking for. My girl and I are fans of great food, but to us, great food definitely includes the simple, cheap foods that the locals like and are a part of the culture and atmosphere. So these suggestions of pretzels and wurst are right on. Any other suggestions are very much welcomed!

    1. t
      torta basilica Sep 24, 2006 10:45 PM

      Ok, you've mentioned Leberkäse, Glühwein & Currywürst, but not hot roasted chesnuts??? They're the best - especially to warm up your fingers!

      Also, go to the top floor of the Kaufhof on Marienplatz - their Super supermarket has everything - a lot of prepared foods - you will not starve! Oh, and I also love those crystallized fruits on sticks they sell at the Weihnachtsmarkt on Marienplatz! Hopefully, you'll be there when St. Nicholas arrives!

      Can't offer up anything in Salzburg, but definitely include in your itinerary!

      1. s
        swingprof Sep 24, 2006 10:41 PM

        MAN! Outstanding ideas, everyone! Does anyone have particular favorites in Salzburg, Austria? Current itinerary ideas suggest that we may have a day or two there...

        1 Reply
        1. re: swingprof
          a
          AmityGuy1 Sep 26, 2006 08:03 PM

          Bavaria and Salzburg during the Advent season is the best. There is nothing like it. I went on my honeymoon there last year in late November and had to promise my wife we would go back. Seeing as my family is from there, that is no problem. And even if they weren't, we would go back.

          Salzburg specific, you must go to the Kristkindl Markt off of the Mozartplatz and drink the the various versions of gluhwein, as well as the sour cherry-amaretto and wildberry drink alcoholic drinks. You can make the stuff at home, but context is everything. Drinking the stuff there is magical. Bavarians and Salzburgians just do the Advent season right.

          As for eating in Salzburg, we wanted to keep it simple. We had a great time with the simple eats at the Augustiner Brewery. Like I said, simple stuff (pretzel and wurst), but the atmosphere is pretty great. We also ate at Zum Wilden Mann and liked it a bunch. The food wasn't precious, but reminded me of my Oma's. The roast chicken, dumplings, and cream of wild game soup were pretty great, especially the soup. And the beer wasn't too bad either.

          I am jealous. Go and enjoy!

        2. b
          Behemoth Sep 23, 2006 07:09 AM

          I love the currywurst at Pommesboutique, on Amalienstrasse just south of Schelling. The have organic Herrmannsdorfer sausages which makes it feel like it's slightly less unhealthy (right), in any case excellent spicing and the sauce has good curry flavor, not ketchup-y. And, they do great belgian frites with lots of dipping options.

          @Marc: Will have to try the Klenzestr. place though, is it a late night option? I could use a few good late night food recs in that neighborhood.

          BTW, did you mean Vincenz-Murr? There is one right on Theatinerstr., convenient to all things touristy.

          Leberkase is a good cheap sandwich option. My one piece of advice would be to buy it from a butcher shop rather than a bakery.

          4 Replies
          1. re: Behemoth
            m
            Marc Sep 26, 2006 06:52 AM

            Yes, the Klenzestraße sausage stand is a late night option. All Klenzestraße is full with late night options, just follow that street. Same applies for Frauenhoferstraße, especially that sqare where it meets the Isar river is fun, there is a 24 hour kiosk with some food options and several other nightspots (no discos, just eat and drink places. And on the other end of Frauenhoferstraße is another hot spot with bars and finally 2 minutes from that end you get to Viktualienmarkt with Schrannenhalle - another 24 hours option.
            And yes, I was writing about Vinzenz Murr, that is a butcher chain with outlets all over town. But must butcher shops offer leberkäs and the like for a reasonably priced meal.

            1. re: Marc
              b
              Behemoth Sep 26, 2006 08:25 PM

              I never realized Schrannenhalle was open 24 hours! Very good to know. (We moved to Munich 9 months ago but I am out of town a lot these days.)

              1. re: Behemoth
                m
                Marc Sep 27, 2006 09:19 AM

                Schrannehalle: the building is open 24 hours, each of the shops can decide, when it wants be open. So at 3 or 4 am only few will be open.
                And if you just moved to Munich: I spent much time these days in Haidhausen and have for that particular area a link for you: www.siewesan.de/prinz.htm
                The center of my activities is a tiny and fun Italian, Mezzodi, at Steinstraße 57.

                1. re: Marc
                  b
                  Behemoth Sep 28, 2006 12:17 AM

                  Thanks, it is a great neighborhood. I definitely need to spend more time exploring around there. (I vaguely remember losing a large chunk of my liver at Negroni...)

          2. b
            Behemoth Sep 21, 2006 12:26 AM

            A couple more inexpensive options:

            I like the suppenkueche stand in viktualienmarket. You get a massive bowl of very high quality soup and a hunk of excellent bread for about 5 euro. They do traditional stuff like maultaschen (sort of a german ravioli) in beef or chicken broth, also liver dumpling, or my current favorite: saurkraut with sausage -- but also non-traditional things like asian noodle soups.

            There is a good turkish stand off the northern end of the market -- just as you pass the row of fishmongers.

            Make sure you have the gluehwein at the Christmas market!

            1 Reply
            1. re: Behemoth
              a
              AmityGuy1 Oct 3, 2006 08:34 PM

              I would also be remiss if I didn't mention that there is a great Doner Kebab place about half a block away from the Viktualienmarkt Biergarten that made the best Doner Kebab I have had in Bavaria (including Ingolstadt, Regensburg, Augsburg, etc.) I apologize for not knowing the name of the place, but it is around the corner from a pharmacy store facing the south side of the Viktualienmarkt. For three euros, absolute heaven.

              I LOVE Doner Kebab.

            2. c
              ChewFun Sep 20, 2006 07:35 PM

              I've been there and done that. First, the Weissesbraeuhaus is very good, even if the waitresses are surly. Don't sit at a table Stammtisch - a big no no. So, what to eat on a budget? Doener Kebab. It's pretty cheap and usually pretty good. Go to a butcher shop at lunch and have a sausage. Have another from a street vendor. Have another just because the others were so good. And it's cheap. Roasted chicken at a beer hall is usually a good deal. Get a Brezel, Riesen Breze, Laugenstange at a bakery. It's a soft pretzel or pretzel stick. It's cheap and tasty and filling. I particularly like the seeded ones. Have a pizza at a pizzeria, not just a slice. It's a cheap, filling meal and usually pretty good. Try the chain, Wienerwald - not fantastic, but you're on a budget and they are easy to find. Go to the local street market and have whatever is being served at the longest line. By some supplies and make your own lunch. Don't forget that at restaurants, the bread slices are counted up and you are charged for what you ate (not costly mind you, but if you're on a budget it can add up). Drink beer, not soda. Soda can be costly, beer is relatively cheap. When I lived in Switzerland, years ago, I would order Spaghetti Bolognese because it was filling and came with a salad.

              1. m
                Marc Sep 20, 2006 02:14 PM

                One of the musts recommended places on this board for Munich is Weisses Bräuhaus, sometimes called "Schneider Weisse". Best and most typical Bavarian food wothout breaking the bank at all.
                Other recommended and reasonably priced places:

                Schrannenhalle, Viktualienmarkt
                Hofbräuhaus, Platzl,
                Augustiner, Neuhauser Straße
                Pfälzer Weinstube, Residenz
                Hofbräukeller, Wiener Platz
                Augustiner-Keller, Arnulfstraße

                More expensive, but still typical and affordable:

                Nürnberger Bratwurstglöckl and Andechser, both Frauenplatz (Dome) and Spöckmeier, near Marienplatz.

                Not typical Bavarian but still reasonable and very unique: Voila (biggest Schnitzel in town, younger crowd), Wörthstraße 5 and right next door Nomiya, the "Bavarian Japanese".
                In that area lot of Ethnic and reasonable price places: all kinds of Italians, Turkish, Indian, Spanish. The French in that area are good, but much more expensive.

                1 Reply
                1. re: Marc
                  m
                  Marc Sep 23, 2006 05:37 AM

                  Addendum:
                  the reportedly best curry-sausage in Munich you find at the intersection Frauenhoferstraße/Klenzestraße, right at the entrance to the Subway.
                  And if you want just eat, you find a good, typical and cheap variety at all outlets of Mayer-Murr, a butcher chain, or any other butchers shop, for example "leberkäs".

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