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Sep 16, 2006 05:04 AM


I'll be in Corsica for a couple of weeks in early October, and would love to receive any recommendations. I see that an earlier post on this subject remains unanswered, so I understand that this is not a well-known culinary destination.

However, since I will have a car and am not limited like the previous poster, I thought I'd take a chance with my own post.

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  1. I love Corsica, and am mostly familiar with rugged Cap Corse, the northern "finger" of the island. October is wonderful there-I think the sanglier (wild boar) season will be open. Sea urchins are great, but I especially love corsica's own charcuterie and cheese. On a warm day have a glass of muscat from Patrimonio for an aperitif with some copa-the sweet wine with salty saucisse is a great pairing. For more serenity visit the south eastern sandy beaches. I remember a restaurant on the beach in Solenzara-nothing too fancy but lovely setting...I envy you!

    1. Do you know where abouts you will be based? Even with a car travelling from one part of the island to another can take ages. We spent three weeks there a few years ago, based inland between Bastia and San Florent, and we only managed to "cover" the northern half.

      I've just tried to post all my info in one go, but my computer has jammed in the process - so I'll try it in parts - here's part one:

      Places which stand out in my mind include the one I recommended in the earlier post, La Tesa, which is near Ile Rousse and really worth a detour. In fact, because it took so long to get there from where we were, we stayed overnight, which was lovely.

      We went to a place called "A Stella di Rustino" in a village called Valle-di-Rustino in the Castagniccia. The prices were very reasonable and it's run by a mad Basque fella, with two huge dogs. He cooks Corsican food and is really enthusiastic about it - but make sure you're hungry, as the portions are huge and the food is heavy mountain fayre!

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        1. Part three:

          St Florent has quite a few nice places to eat, and it's great sitting outside one of the bars on the marina people watching. It has a mini Monaco feel to it, but it is not pretentious in anyway. The Ind'e Lucia on the Place Doria just off the marina is great - and does a fab pasta with rabbit sauce. Also, the Marinuccia in the same Place does good seafood and has a fantastic terrace jutting out to sea. I'm not sure what time the sun sets in October, or if it will be warm enough, but it is a lovely place to watch the sun go down over a plate of langoustines.

          We passed through Calvi but we didn't like it as much as other towns. There were more purpose built holiday homes and touristy eateries than in other places, although I'm sure good places exist.

          1. And finally...

            One other place worth a trip is the Hotel les Roches Rouge in Piana on the West coast. We stayed there for our wedding aniversary night (rooms are surprisingly cheap) and it was magical. The views of the Calanche are spectacular, especially at sun set. We had drinks on the terrace with the nicest olives I have ever eaten. The food was quite good - but we were a bit disappointed - maybe our expectations were too high having had such good value and high quality food elsewhere. If you're planning on going in that direction, I'd still recommend it as a stop, though.

            Erbalunga, North of Bastia on the Cap Corse, is a lovely spot. We enjoyed reading our books sitting outside a bar in the tiny square with a cold beer in the early evening. There are a couple of restaurants there. The only one we ate in was an Italian one in the square, and it served very good food as far as I remember.

            We often just drove into the hills and found small family run restaurants which served cheap good quality food.

            Some of this info may be out of date - we went a few years ago, and sometimes small mountain places close down, but I hope you find it useful. I think the time we had in Corsica was the best holiday I've ever had - it's stunning, the people were lovely and the walks were a great way to see the island and work up an appetite (get the Marigold guide if you like to walk).

            Enjoy it - I'm jealous.