HOME > Chowhound > Houston >

Discussion

[Houston] Sichuan Cuisine, the real deal--long

Ok, I have 3000 words on this place which obviously flipped my switch in a good way. I have three parts. Here is Part One. Shoud I post the others as replies to this, or should I start a new topic? Seems like the 'self-reply' idea might make the most sense. Ideas?

Here's my report:

Sichuan Cuisine
Houston
Part One

9114 Bellaire Blvd
713-771-6868
(I'm including this to make your search easier...)

Through a bit of Web sleuthing, I stumbled upon what just might be one, no, it IS one, of the best Chinese restaurants in the state of Texas. I’ve not been to them all, of course, but I’ve never experienced a place that so closely resembles meals I’ve had at what many consider to be near the top of the heaps in NYC and the SF Bay Area, Grand Sichuan International (Ninth Ave/50th St. branch) and China Village (Albany CA), respectively.

The place in question is not-so-mysteriously called Sichuan Cuisine, located at 9114 Bellaire Blvd. in Houston. I live in Austin, and after careful inspection of their online menu, I knew it was a place worth driving 3 hours to do a bit of experimenting. During the entire length of the Highway 71/I-10 route, I could already taste the mouth-numbing effects of the ‘ma la’ seasoning the Sichuan kitchen is known for; the numbing comes from the fruit of the ‘prickly ash’, known in this country as the Sichuan peppercorn. Combined with a generous portion of simply hot red chiles, Sichuanese cooking is famous in China for being the Mexican food of that country, and rightfully so. Some meals I’ve had at Grand Sichuan in NYC have left my mouth tingling for hours afterward, so intense is the sensation. Ahhhh! But like any self-respecting drug addict, you can’t, once you’ve had it, help wanting more, and more, and more.

Ok, so I pulled into a totally jammed parking lot and, somehow, managed to find a place directly in front of the restaurant, just like in the movies. I walked through the front door and got a bit nervous because there was *no one* else there, save the owners. “Crap, this place must suck,” I thought to myself. But then I noticed the menu on the front counter said “Shanghai Restaurant” and I confirmed with the frowning couple that I was in the wrong place and did a quick 180 back out the door. Three hours on the road must have made me dizzy!

All trepidation disappeared when I finally walked into the absolutely jammin’ eatery next door, tables littered with half-full (or, half-empty?) plates of yummy looking food.

The menu arrived and was far snappier than I’d imagined: it had several pages of photos of select dishes, enough to help, somewhat, at least, the Sichuan virgin navigate the extensive offerings. But I already knew, more or less, what I was going to start with. Had to do some of the staples in order to judge the place based on their versions of the “chicken fried steak” and “fish and chips” of the Sichuan kitchen. Ok, what I ordered had nothing to do with chicken or fish, but rather, well, you understand: order some things that have more or less standard preparations and see how those fare; then dive into the more interesting options.

So it was Dan Dan Noodles, “Dragon” Wontons and Double Cooked Pork, about as basic a Sichuan selection as you can get. When I placed my order, the waitress asked, “Is that all you want?” Crap! I suddenly felt inadequate, but why? I knew that was more food than two people *should* eat, yet I started running down the menu in my head to see what I’d forgotten. Well, I’d not ordered about 200 other things, but, except for maybe feeling the need to balance the protein, yummy fat, and starch, with something like a green vegetable, why would I want or need to order more, at least for lunch. For I knew, and she didn’t, that I’d already planned to return for dinner that very night.

Ok, the food? Well, it was not transcendent, but I figured, compared to the aforementioned GSI and CV, it would be hard to impress my oh-so-cultured palate. But, bar none, it was better than any Chinese food I’ve had in Texas, or elsewhere, save these other treasured Meccas.

The noodles were very good. Just as they should be, they comprised a heap of noodles covering a spicy “ma la” sauce, and topped with an almost dry topping of seasoned ground pork and chopped pickled cabbage. Ya gotta stir all this up to mingle all the flavors, then dig in. There was an adequate, though far from excessive, amount of Sichuan peppercorn, not enough to numb, but decidedly present. Nice and warm. My main complaint was with the noodles themselves...I found them just a tad over cooked, not enough resistance to the tooth. But otherwise, a very respectable rendition of this classic.

I’m not sure, but I think Dragon Wontons are so named because their wrapping is a bit floppy and slippery, reminding one of, I suppose, a dragon’s wavy, spiked tail. Or maybe it’s because their red-chile oil topping is hotter than a dragon’s breath. Take your pick. But do pick these when you visit this place. They are delicious. The filling is the ubiquitous ground pork and who knows what, tasty, but nothing out of the ordinary. What lifts them above the mundane is that very “ma la” chile oil. This stuff rocks! But be sure to stir the topping thoroughly into the rest of the bowl because, when it arrives, there is an amazing concentration of ground chiles/pepper on the top three or four dumplings. Yeah, they are really dumplings I guess, though not properly so for some reason I don’t understand. These are wontons...maybe it’s the manner in which they are folded, not sure. In any case, they are worth a try, and certainly a bargain at only $2.95 for 10 of these slippery, dragony suckers. Felt like a cocky St. George when I slurped up the last of these, and all by my lonesome!

Save the best for last, though it was the first dish to arrive at the table. Double cooked, or twice cooked, pork, properly made, is a hunk of pork belly, like uncured bacon, which is blanched, or boiled, for the initial cooking, then sliced and stir fried with lots of oil, chiles, leeks and sometimes hoisin or bean sauce and maybe fermented black beans. Sichuan Cuisine’s version arrived looking perfectly done, properly twice cooked. It appears to be a heap of undercooked bacon, stir fried with some vegetables. Well, that’s sort of what it is, but it’s way more. For one, it’s not undercooked, it’s just not crisp as we expect bacon to be. One friend calls it “floppy pork.” But let me assure you, the flavors and textures are just perfect. The pork doesn’t crackle, no, but it is far from chewy...and the combination of the chiles, leeks and other slightly sweet flavorings creates a welcome relief from the driving heat of the opening dishes. But that is not to say this dish itself is not peppery. It is, but heat is a relative thing. And the leeks offer the perfect foil for the, yes, fatty pork.

One thing you’ll notice after eating enough Sichuan food is the spare touch with the traditional thickeners like cornstarch or tapioca starch. There is no gloppy brown sauce so typical of most Americanized Chinese, but rather, a more naturally occurring sauce, though much of the “sauce” is red oil — Sichuan food might be considered to be over oily by our tastes, but that is quite typical of this highly refined kitchen.

I left the place full, fat and happy. Wondering how I would be able to pull off another meal there in just a few hours. Oh, now I remember! The food is exciting, compelling and addictive. I’ll be back soon, ladies!

Oh, there is a menu online; it is not absolutely current, but close. Certainly worth a peek:

http://www.chinatownconnection.com/si...

mike

  1. Click to Upload a photo (10 MB limit)
Delete
  1. You're making my mouth water. I live in SA, and although (with the help of my Hunanese associate) have found a few decent Chinese restaurants, but no Sichuan or Hunan cuisine. He told me Houston is where the good Chinese restaurants are in TX and from reading your review, it sounds like he's right.

    I was in NY a few weeks ago (used to live there) and in 6 days, ate at Grand Sichuan twice (the one on St. Marks and the one in Chelsea) and Wu Liang Ye. We had one dish that must have had 200 Sechuan peppers and tons of peppercorns. Yum!

    1. Okay, I'm just gonna go for it. Here is Part Two of my Sichuan Holiday in Houston!, Part Three will follow:

      Sichuan Cuisine, Houston
      Part Two

      9114 Bellaire Blvd
      713-771-6868

      Part One has some intro material to this place and Sichuan cooking, so you might want to read it first.

      Lunch was way too much for one person, so sue me! All it meant was that dinner would end up being later than 5pm! So around 8, I returned to Sichuan Cuisine for another bout with the menu. I knew my main entree would be an incendiary chicken dish, but with what should I flank it? I decided on a cold noodle dish and a green vegetable to balance out some of the heavier stuff I’d already eaten that day, and to assuage somewhat, my guilt of not having a proper vegetable during the course of the day.

      After ordering (and after fetching some Tsing Tao from the supermarket across the parking lot—Sichuan Cuisine does not have a liquor license, but they don’t mind BYOBs) the waitress informed me they were out of the cold noodles! So I opted for what was supposed to be a hot version of the same dish. What I was served was very much like the Dan Dan noodles they’d given me at lunch, the main difference seemed to be that, instead of mixing the ground pork topping with preserved cabbage, this time the pork was cooked with minced bits of Sichuan preserved vegetable, a kind of pickled radish with a unique, unmistakable flavor. The noodles were decent, but too redundant of lunch, so I pushed them aside to concentrate on the amazing chicken and the so-so sautéed greens.

      The chicken, Chong Qing Spicy Chicken, appeared to be a huge pile of nothing but fried red chiles. But on closer examination, hidden within all that potentially dangerous heat were small, one-inch cubes of crisp-fried boneless chicken (there is another, more traditional version with bones also on the menu), that pick up some heat from the chiles, but not too much; what adheres more to these unique little chicken nuggets (oh, in the best sense of that now screwed up phrase) are Sichuan peppercorns, so that every fourth or fifth bite offers at least a hint of tingle, and sometimes a wallop of outright numbness. And it is so good! This is certainly one of the best dishes on the menu. Next time I’ll try the more trad versions with bones... DO NOT miss this dish!

      The vegetable was an average plate of sautéed Chinese green vegetable, You Cai, related to the Italian “cima di rape”, something like a turnip green. It was also laced with chiles, but was not really “spicy”. It was ok, but next time I’d opt for the sautéed pea shoots or spinach.

      Boxed up the leftovers—none of which was chicken—and headed out for the night, to dream of dishes still untried!

      1 Reply
      1. re: sambamaster

        And the grand finale! I can't wait to go back to Houston for more of this place...

        Sichuan Cuisine, Houston,
        Part Three

        9114 Bellaire Blvd
        713-771-6868

        After stuffing myself twice on a Saturday at this fantastic Chinese eatery, I was not sure I could really drag myself back for a third visit the next day, plus, staying at my brother’s place, a 40-minute drive, presented another slight barrier. Ah, but true love prevailed and I convinced my bro, his wife, my sister and my niece to travel to Sichuan for dinner on Sunday.

        And, since I’ve already bored you with all the flowery prose and spurious details, let’s look at the food. (I ran out of the house without my digital camera, or we would be doing that a bit more literally as well as figuratively.)

        We started with the Chengdu Dumplings, a bowl of 10 handmade dumplings coated with a fiery looking paste of dried chiles and Sichuan peppercorns, with a generous dab of pureed raw garlic slathered on top. The dumplings themselves were fine, the usual handmade wrapper cloaking the usual ground pork filling. The sauce was a bit sweeter than for the Dragon Wontons from Saturday, and though it looked like it could launch an Atlas rocket, was not really that hot...but still offered plenty of kick...and not for the squeamish. I’d certainly have them again.
        Next was a cold appetizer, the Bang Bang Chicken, which is one of the standards of Sichuan cooking; it is sometimes referred to as Strange Flavor Chicken, and sometimes the name is transliterated as Bon Bon Chicken. Anyway, it is a dish of simple shredded boiled chicken breast and thin scallion threads, sauced with one of the most interesting, maybe strangely flavored (!) concoctions on the menu. Hot as hell, but with a hint of vinegary tartness, a bit of sweetness, and a hint of sesame in the background. I’ve had this in other places where the sesame flavor is more pronounced, and I think that is a more traditional way of making this dish. I enjoyed this tremendously, but would have preferred more sesame. Do try it.

        I had to have the classic Sichuan Tea Smoked Duck, but was disappointed by its dryness. The flavor was excellent—smokey like a country ham—but the texture was just too desiccated, and it should not be that way, at least in my opinion. But this is probably a stylistic choice made by the chef...I know this duck can also turn out to be juicy and succulent. Still worth trying, but not as the focus of a meal.

        We sampled two other Sichuan standards: First was the table’s favorite, Smoked Pork with Garlic Leeks, which was more or less a very smokey bacon, blanched, then stir fried with leeks. The flavors were bright and clear and the sensation was 100% pleasurable. The pork just smokey enough, and just chewy enough, while the leeks (probably just “normal” leeks, not the advertised garlic variety) provided a bit of sweetness as well as their mildly oniony-ness. I will definitely order this again, and even my ultra-picky sister ate it and seemed to enjoy it. I think this dish is influenced by Hunan cooking, or would guess so because of the use of smoked pork instead of fresh.

        The other dish was their version of “water-boiled beef” which they call Boiled Beef in Spicy Sauce. It is tender slices of beef boiled in a spicy sauce, as advertised. Ahhh, but that sauce! Lots of ground red chiles and Sichuan peppercorns to provide a nearly adequate amount of mouth numbing, all atop a mixture of cooked vegetable slices including leek, napa cabbage, and celery. My complaint about this dish was that it was a tad under-salted which caused it to be just a bit flat...a small amount of added salt would have made all the flavors “pop” and would have provided more depth to the whole thing. So remember that...ask for some salt for the table just in case.

        The last dish we ordered is incorrectly translated on the menu as Ground Pork with Cow Bean when in fact it was one of my Sichuan faves, Pickled String Beans with Ground Pork. The beans (probably yard-long beans actually) are mildly pickled, then cut into small quarter-inch pieces and stir fried with pork and a small amount of red chile. This version was a bit different from others I’ve had in that the pork seemed to be blanched, not fried, and there was the distinctive flavor of sesame oil which lingered on the palate after each bite...not a bad thing by any means. This is an odd dish for some, but my brother thought it was his favorite. I certainly rank it near the top. You won’t find this in any other Chinese place in this state, I’d bet at least a dollar on that!

        My sister and niece each had a plate of American Chinese stir fried chicken, complete with the typical gloppy brown sauce mentioned in Part One. And the moral of this is, if you try this place, stay away from the familiar dishes and try the real deal. You will not be disappointed, though, as I said, some dishes were more successful than others.

        A couple of notes. The service is a bit impersonal and hurried. Don’t expect a lot of help in ordering, and, if you are not Asian, they will probably assume you want your food tamed down. Make sure you tell them you want it Chinese style and spicy. (Oh, and I lied in this part: we didn't get the dishes in the order described, that would have been the ideal...in fact, the apps arrived last!) Also, in my three visits, aside from me and my family, I saw exactly seven other non-Asians enjoying this food, and I think this attests to the quality and authenticity of the place. Several dishes featuring duck tongue, and even more enveloping pig intestines provide even more evidence for this place being the real thing. But even the over-lauded Houston food critic Robb Walsh obviously didn’t “get it” when he reviewed Sichuan Cuisine in the Houston Press some months back, and his lukewarm review is good proof of that. Had he dug a little deeper, he might have uncovered some of the real gems this place has to offer.

        And here are some items on my list for future visits: Kung Pao Chicken (this is a Sichuan classic, and I think they probably do it right), Steamed Pork with Pickled Vegetable (slow, braised pork belly with preserved cabbage, yummy), Spicy Tender Tofu (sometimes called Flower Tofu, it is amazing, the tofu just a vehicle for the sauce), Onion or Scallion Pancake, some of the soups and soup noodles, Beef Jerky in Chile Sauce (a cold, yet fiery app), Cucumber with Garlic Sauce (cold app), Pork Elbow in Home Style (a pork “knuckle” steamed, then served with a spicy sauce...am not familiar with this and eager to sample something new), a number of other pork dishes too numerous to mention, a couple of other beef dishes including Fried Beef with Red Hot Pepper and Pickle, and some of the lamb, most notably the Fried Lamb with Hot Cumin; there are several fish dishes I’d like to try, and several other tofu dishes including the Sichuan classic Ma Po Tofu; other veggies include the Eggplant with Garlic Sauce, the Sautéed Potato with Green Pepper (yes, potato, and it can be delicious this way), Stir Fried Pea Pod (actually pea shoots); and some time, with a group, one of the traditional Sichuan Hot Pots.

        Hungry yet?

        I can’t say this is the best Sichuan food I’ve had, but it is the real deal and is certainly the best Chinese food I’ve ever had in the state of Texas. Definitely worth exploring, and worth more than a couple of visits. Go with several folks in order to sample a greater variety of dishes. You may hate this place, I don’t particularly like Bruce Springsteen, but chances are, if you like your food distinctive and a bit on the wild, hot side, you will, like I have, become addicted to the stuff and keep going back for more.

        mike

      2. Might have to make a trip to Houston. The Chong Qing chicken is what we had in NY, except we had the fresh-killed version. Too bad there's nothing like that here in SA.

        1. Wonderful piece, Dancer! Thanks so much ... you've got me looking forward to visiting this place with a copy of your posting.

          1. Glad there's finally some real Sichuan style food in Texas. This country has been fooled by pseudo-Szechwan style food for perhaps three decades and it's nice to see the authentic stuff making its way across the country. Without trying the place I would expect Sichuan Cuisine to be better than Grand Sichuan in Manhattan, which while pretty good, is not wholly authentic. For the real stuff you should come to Los Angeles, which has become the center of authentic Sichuan and Hunan style food in the U.S., or to Flushing in Queens, which is the real Chinatown in New York City.

            2 Replies
            1. re: Chandavkl

              Oddly, just two days ago, I found another Sichuan place, this time in my backyard here in Austin. I will report on it later. It's not fantastic, but it will be my Chinese of choice here from now on.

              Anyway, I know LA has had a great influx of folks from Sichuan and have read good things about a few places there, though they seem to open and close fairly quickly. And Flushing...yes, Spicy and Tasty there is Number One on my list for my next NYC trip, hopefully sooooooon. From what I read, it will certainly push Grand Sichuan aside for the best Sichuan in NY. Can't wait. Queens has some great food, for sure...last visit had me consuming a wonderful "crispy pata" at a Filipino place...it was amazing. Now, if only someone in Austin or Houston would deep fry me a pig's knuckle, I'd be in heaven!

              Now, Sichuan Cuisine in Houston is not better than GSI in NY. The flavors are not quite there, something is missing. Hell, maybe it is more "authentic", but I must say I've enjoyed the food more at GSI over the course of 15-20 visits there. The Houston place just doesn't hit the mark flavor-wise the way GSI does, in my opinion. Seems like GSI takes a little more care with the food. For example, the Smoked Pork with Garlic Leeks in Houston may have very well been made with commercially available bacon, though a higher quality one that Hormel or whatever. It's been a couple years since I had that dish at GSI, I am fairly certain the smoked pork was done in-house, or at least, I'm certain it was not simply bacon (though i suppose smoked pork belly is bacon for all practical purposes???). It seemed less uniformly sliced, more "rustic" somehow. That said, the Houston dish was still delightful! Oh well, like any Italian will tell you, put 100 cooks from Bologna in a room and you will have 100 recipes for ragu. Each to his or her own. Sichuan cooking is certainly the same, even on home turf.

              1. re: sambamaster

                Good to have a Sichuan place in Houston when I visit from NY.

                However, I have never had a good meal at Grand Sichuan, (been to multiple branched, multiple times). Will take Wu Liang Ye any day of the week

                Thanks for the recommendation

            2. Sambamaster,

              Great posting. Thanks for the detailed account. Sichuan Cuisine is one of my favorites. All my fellow Anglo friends and family, however, won't tolerate it as spicy as it can get.

              A few comments.

              1. In the back of the restaurant is a buffet with appetizers only. You mentioned a few for you future trip. So check out the buffet.
              2. The service is always friendly and pleasant. They need to clean the place better, of course.
              3. I will defend Robb Walsh. I don't agree with half he says and don't like it when he criticizes waiters in a way that seems to identify them to their bosses, but he's a great asset to Houston.
              4. You didn't mention Sichuan soup dumplings. Didn't notice of SC has them on the menu but check out Fu Fu, a new restaurant further west on Bellaire, for that. I hear the razor clams are good at Fu Fu, too.
              5. Aaron Danburg is a former Houstonian who has blogged nicely about SC:
              http://www.arondanburg.com/movabletyp...
              6. I want to hear from you about your favorite Austin places!

              1. Incredible report - read it twice! I'll make a trip to Houston (not the first time I've done that just to eat). In the mean time, won't you please give the name of your discovery in Austin? I really only enjoy a handful of Chinese places here (Pao's, T&S, Marco Polo and Ng House) and none of them, as far as I can tell, focuses on Sichuan.

                2 Replies
                1. re: dee lannon

                  Texnosh,
                  yeah, I didn't mention the cold apps in the back of the place. one of those is the famous dried beef with chile sauce...it's on my list.
                  Since I was there when the place was packed, and since I was a solo 2 of 3 visits, they didn't know quite what to do with me...it's a common problem in busy restaurants.
                  The soup dumplings you mention are not from Sichuan, but Shaghai...so...but thanks for the FuFu tip. I did some poking around and they seem to be the only place in Houston to have them...I will check them out next trip. Now that gas is going down, those trips from Austin to Houston might be more regular!
                  Aaron Danburg's posting is nice...wish I had taken my camera...I certainly had intended to...and the tea smoked duck in his photo looks much fresher than the one I was served...looks more moist...
                  Robb Walsh was writing in Austin before he was in Houston, and I'll just leave it at that, except that I've been reading him for a long time...

                  Dee,
                  I will post my Austin find as a new topic. I've only been twice and want to go again this weekend before posting, but maybe I'll just do an amendment! The places you've named are at the, or were at, the top of my list in Austin, but this new joint now rules the #1 spot!

                  1. re: sambamaster

                    Yes, I got my Sh's mixed up with my Sc's...Shanghai dumplings.

                2. I can confirm this is truly "the biz" of real not-toned-down Chinese cuisine. We ordered (in spite of dire warnings) the crispy pork intestines and they came with more red chillies than most regular supermarkets sell in a year. And the intestines, while "flavorful" (not in an entirely good way :-) ) were certainly not terrible. We made a bad order in the hot-pot which turned out to be a huge soupy affair that intimidated our appetite by its bulk.

                  The cold appetizer of shredded pig ear is very good.

                  The portions are very large and unfortunately this means that you'd be a lot better off coming here in a group of 8 so as to try a lot more stuff. Service is friendly and happily they will take you at your word if you say you want something "only Chinese people usually like".

                  Tablecloths, and nice large sized tables.

                  A funny story which tells you about this place: I was there with 2 visitors from England, and one of them ordered "sweet and sour chicken" and was unceremoniously told "we no serve Sweet and Sour chicken, that American Chinese, this CHINESE Chinese!" I loved that. Funny though that the first reaction from my friend was "What a dump! They don't even serve sweet and sour chicken!" :-)

                  No this is not the place for that. But if you want to push your own personal envelope, or know Chinatown food from other big cities, you could well find a home from home here.

                  Note, the Sichuen Peppercorn is not only numbing, but has a taste you either like or you don't. It pervades all the food so if you don't like it, it's not such a good choice. But abundant alterantives in the immediate vicinity to try, if so.

                  Also this place was empty when I first went there (have had 2 visits) so don't worry if it's not exactly packed.

                  1 Reply
                  1. re: bishopsbitter

                    bishop, can you tell me more about the hot pot? i'm on a hot pot tangent right now... was a big bowl of broth served on a gas burner and lots of raw veggies, meat, and/or seafood alongside? was the broth spiced with szechuan peppers?

                    i definitely think i need another trip back here really soon. i don't know why i never posted my review of SC here. i wish i had to refresh my memory. it's been almost a year since my visit and i can't remember everything we ordered and what my favorite dishes were.

                  2. Based on sambamaster's posts, I sought this place out while in Houston on a one-day trip. I only had time for the one meal, and I was alone, so I brought a cooler with cold packs for leftovers, and ordered a feast. The waitress was so great...I told her I wanted some stuff to eat there, and some to go...when she figured out I was a chowhound (no mention of the board, just the questions I was asking and the amount I was ordering) she asked if I wanted it all served on the table so I could taste it all, and then pack up the rest. Why YES, thanks! I could hear and see some other customers wondering at my groaning board...

                    I got mostly what had been discussed here...

                    Dan Dan noodles: I have only had this dish at Pao's in Austin, where the noodles were thick and coated in a peanut-y sauce...I liked it, but this was different in a better way. The noodles alone were thin, flavorful and had a great springy consistency. They were naked until you stirred it all up, and combined with the ground pork, preserved vegetables and spicy sauce, it was a perfect little bowl. There were some nice vibrant steamed leaves of something on top - a great fresh counterpoint. At $1.95 - this would be my every day lunch if I lived closer.

                    Dragon won ton: That fiery red sauce is insanely delicious - almost smokey - complex and spicy. (Weirdly - this must be a characteristic of "ma-la" - the spicyness never got uncomfortable, just tingly) The dumplings were good - but again, I have had this at Pao's and this time, they win. The noodles were just a touch tough, and as s-master noted, the slurp factor is a big part of this dish.

                    Xiao long bao: Speaking of slurping...when I saw these on the menu, I just had to order them, since there has been some discussion lately (even above). Shanghai soup buns/dumplings are at Sichuan Cuisine, and they are pretty durn good. The first two I tried were soupless, and the noodle/bun wrapping on a few of them was a tad thick at the top, but most were nice and tender and delicious. I had forgotten what a true delight it is to bite through the thick wrapper into a meaty dumbpling filling while slurping up the hot broth gushing out into your mouth and spoon.

                    Twice cooked pork: This was different than I have ever had anywhere else. The pork belly is cut long, like bacon, when I am used to sort of the "lardon" cut. The "sauce" as such is barely there, when I am used to a thicker bean paste and fermented bean based sauce. That said, this was comfort food at its finest...the bright green leeks and jalapenos countered the rich rich tasty yummy meat. Mm. Mm.

                    MaPo Dofu: The tofu was the softest and silkiest I have ever had in this dish, and also cut into biiiig pieces -like 1" by 3/4" - that was a perfect size to allow the soothing tofu to spill out over the spicy sauce on my tongue. Lots of nice savory ground pork, leeks...something in that sauce is haunting me...a taste I have never experienced before...sort of sour, bright, medicinal...all in a VERY good way. I have deconstructed my leftover and I cannot figure it out, and alas, there is none left on which to conduct further research.

                    Green beans with pork: Not sure what this is really called, since I just saw someone with it and asked to have it also... the beans were perfect - crisp tender, and extremely flavorful. The pork and preserved vegetable mix was the same as in the Dan Dan noodles, but there was no sauce in this... a welcome respite.

                    I had ordered three things on the lunch special, so there were fried egg rolls floating around that I ignored due to stomach capacity issues. Oh, the pickled cabbage that showed up was fantastic, and the rice was perfect. The tea was fragrant and the leftovers are long gone. Thanks, sambamaster, for sharing this with us.

                    6 Replies
                    1. re: saticoy

                      Saticoy,
                      Glad that worked out. I really think the place rocks and can't wait to go back to Houston to try it again, and again, and again! Lunch and dinnner anyone??? Next time try the pickled long beans with ground pork. They call them cowpeas or something not quite right, but ask. They are a total surprise if you've never had them, and you'll go back for more, and make a nice change from the really hot stuff. And of course, get the chicken with chiles, Chong Qing Spicy Chicken, and you'll certainly be delighted...and you'll also try to figure out how a dish that is at least 60% dried chiles can be so tame. Yum!
                      Would love to hear others' reports on visiting this place...anyone out there???

                      1. re: sambamaster

                        Wondering if Allison Cook's review filled this place, at least for a few weeks...actually, whenever I've been, it's been full, but by folks who have probably never heard of AC. Is the food still as good as a year ago, or has fame spoiled this little gem???

                        1. re: sambamaster

                          Good news sambam. Alison's review is of a different restaurant:
                          China Sichuan Cuisine, on 3758 S.Gessner
                          Your place is Sichuan Cuisine, on 9114 Bellaire Blvd, and it is just as good as it was a year ago, no worries...

                          1. re: berelek

                            that is good news on two fronts....or two restaurants from which to choose! so how does CSC compare to SC?
                            (now, if only HOU were not 600 or so miles from where I now live in Wichita KS)

                            1. re: sambamaster

                              Sorry for the delay to reply, SC is definitely the better one, I hope Ms. Cook doesn't write an article about it, for the same reasons you were concerned, I'd like to keep it just the way it is. And yes Wichita is not exactly a short drive to Houston, so great food from around the world is, no doubt, one of the best perks of living this big city

                              1. re: berelek

                                has anyone checked out the sichuan place behind sinh sinh? it's in the far right side of the shopping center?